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I would bet that one or two of your spark plugs are very bad and not working.

when the ima motor is helping and the cvt compensating for the lost power a new owner might not notice as there is no basis for comparison,

why you do not try a run with your ima battery switch turned off , the swich under a small metal plate on the cover of the battery compartment in the cargo area, under the cargo mat. the cover is held in place by two 10mm bolts.

if you flip it off you should be able to feel

what your engine is performing like , for example the ima motor is making it to run smoother if a cylinder is not working then the rough idle will be more pronounced,

another thing- if your low mpg is due to bad ima battery , then with it switched off the mpg should jump up.

I guess there a lot of possible problems, but suggest you start eliminating from the ones that cost less or nothing.

And a last thing, i go to a local independent shop and they have been very helpful and efficient.

I have not asked them to do anything on the ima system though, I keep them focused on the regular part of the car, ICE, tires, brakes, suspension, exhaust etc- can only say good things about them.

you will be surprised how much the same is the car as to other non hybrid hondas...
 

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If a cylinder was missfiring, wouldn't the CEL become very angry and flash at him? lol
 

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You are right, if it was a misfire the CEL would go off, actually if the car was doing 25 mpg probably a lot of things were wrong with it , so there should have been a bunch of codes... may be the CEL led is gone bad too.....
 

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You are right, if it was a misfire the CEL would go off, actually if the car was doing 25 mpg probably a lot of things were wrong with it , so there should have been a bunch of codes... may be the CEL led is gone bad too.....
LOL, that's a good point. I don't think the Insight dash cluster uses LEDs as bulbs for the idiot lights.... does it? You wouldn't realistically ever have to worry about a bulb burning out if it did.

I don't think it does though, because the car I just bought.. the owner told us that the "needs maintenance" light is burned out, lol. But that's anecdotal evidence, at best.
 

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How is the Insight #2 compared to the other one, do you feel any difference in the power of the car compared to the other one, any oil burning, does it hold the lean burn for long, and one of most important things how is the MPG for now?
 

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I don't think it does though, because the car I just bought.. the owner told us that the "needs maintenance" light is burned out, lol. But that's anecdotal evidence, at best.
Doublecheck the Owner's Manual, but when you turn the key to position 2, all the lights go on as a test. If the CEL is on then, the bulb is fine. If not, then the light is not working (probably bulb, but could be something else).

25 mpg is the lowest I have ever seen here. My lowest, beating on the car, was 47. Subtract about 10% for CVT.

Something is very wrong with the car. If it is not obvious, I would take it to a dealer, pay the $100 diagnostic fee and go from there. You will make that up in no time when you double your mpg.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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If the Check Engine Light is not working (does not come on when you first turn the key on) then you need to go "pull the codes" and see what's wrong. You can do this easily, for free, by going to an Autozone or Advance Auto Parts. They will "loan" you a code reader for free. Generally you just give them your driver's license and they hand you the tool.

Plug the code reader into the OBD port. It's by the passenger's left foot just in front of the center console. Generally the code reader will walk you through the process, you input your car make and model into the reader and then turn the key to "on". If you have any codes report back here.

Usually if you have any trouble codes or your Check Engine Light doesn't work, you won't pass state inspection.

It is unusual for the Check Engine Light to burn out. I thought it was an LED, could be wrong. It is possible an unscrupulous previous owner intentionally disabled it.
 

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How is the Insight #2 compared to the other one, do you feel any difference in the power of the car compared to the other one, any oil burning, does it hold the lean burn for long, and one of most important things how is the MPG for now?
It does seem to have less power than my car, now that I've driven them back to back a few times. That remains to be investigated. Could just be the air filter, I haven't checked it yet. It does not appear to use any oil; it hasn't used a drop in the last ~1000mi. It gets and holds lean burn beautifully.

I don't have any real MPG figures yet, as the drive home(LA to Santa Fe) is the only non-city driving statistics we have thus far. It was able to average 66MPG on the 800 mile trip home. Keep in mind that is with crappy 175mm tires and steel wheels. Now that we have the stock wheels and tires on it, it drives like a whole different car.

Much like myself, my fiancee's short commute to work will destroy her average fuel economy. But I'm sure I'll get some good highway numbers this summer.

Something else to keep in mind is that my car, #1, is wrecked. The rear passenger side of the car is all smashed, the bumper is flopping in the wind. No wheel skirt, no rear underbody paneling. So with that in mind, I'm pretty proud of my 80+MPG tanks. I'm hopeful for even better numbers once I get it all fixed up.
 

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That is very reasuring news , no oil loss at 442k and 66mpg is great news , thanks for the info, and hope you fix your #1 as soon as possible. no dout that the aerodinamics suffer from any imperfection...
 

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I wonder?

Eli,

I wonder what your cylinder compression is on the 442K mile car? If it is a little low that could account for lower power, I'd be curious to know the difference between factory new and almost half a million miles latter.
 

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Eli,

I wonder what your cylinder compression is on the 442K mile car? If it is a little low that could account for lower power, I'd be curious to know the difference between factory new and almost half a million miles latter.
I would be too and that's something I will definitely be checking when I check the plugs. :)

What is the procedure to force it to spin with the 12V starter?
 
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