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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Lean burn cvt ECM on eBay

Not mine, I would jump on this but I think it is too much work. Buy it now for $600.

Is this someone from here?

Description from listing is:

2000-2001 Honda Insights with a 5 speed get around 65-70 miles per gallon (or better,*if you know how to "hypermile" . The CVT (automatic) gets closer to 45-50, the reason being the CVT model does have the ability to go into "lean burn," where the*ultra high mpg is*achieved. With this kit, your CVT car will get about the same MPG as a 5 speed car as*will go into lean burn. *This kit is extremely hard to come by. The 37820-PHM-J51*computer was only available in Japan, thus there are only 4 cars that have been converted in the US. Yours will be number 5. Included is a modified 02 cable and the correct NTK 24301 02 sensor. There are also computer wiring changes that*are needed. Email if you want a link to detail. Buyer pays shipping. I'm going to sell this as is with no returns as it is beyond my control if you connect it incorrectly. *Like any electronic device, if you connect it up*wrong you will most likely damage it. *Feel free to email with any questions
 

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Not mine, I would jump on this but I think it is too much work. Buy it now for $600.
Really it isn’t too bad. Especially with the pre made harness. All the instructions are posted. Taking your time I think you could still knock it out in one night.

It even includes a new 5 wire laf sensor. I think they run close to $200 so $400 for the ecu is reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Because no one else bought this overnight I just had to buy it. I am now looking for a scrap ecu to rip connectors off of and harness ends with the correct connectors so I won't need to cut into my harnesses.
 

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CVT Conversion

Who is the seller? I have shipped out 5 of these at my cost to help members on the forum. I'll have to admit I would be disappointed if it's one of those just being marked up and resold.
 

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Because no one else bought this overnight I just had to buy it. I am now looking for a scrap ecu to rip connectors off of and harness ends with the correct connectors so I won't need to cut into my harnesses.
So glad to see you got it! I’m really looking forward to seeing how or if it changes your already “insane” mpg figures you get!!

I’m not sure your ideas on your install.

If I recall I cut/hacked zero wires and hacked zero connectors.

The only “non oem” thing I had to do was peel back just a tiny amount of insulation on two wires and then “tack” solder them together. Very minimal

All the changes are easily reversible even the two soldered together wires.

There is a thread about the conversion that should shed some light on everything.

Don’t be afraid once you finish you’ll discover it isn’t too bad.

If your lost or stuck send me a pm and I can help you out.
 

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Who is the seller? I have shipped out 5 of these at my cost to help members on the forum. I'll have to admit I would be disappointed if it's one of those just being marked up and resold.
Again I want to say thank you for your generosity and expertise not only locating and “very fairly” pricing these ecu’s for others beside you to benefit here.

Also making the effort to source and cut up and complete the pre made harness along with the ecu. Thus allowing use of existing wiring and no hacking or cutting required for the conversion. Super convenient!!


And finally thanks for the guts and knowledge to sort out everything and share with the forum so others could repeat your process for the same result.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If it is just two wires no concern. The one link I say last night showed what appeared to be 6 to 8 wires pulled from a connector, splicing, etc. I wired in the harness for a grid charger to balance the ima battery, swapped one of the ecms or bcms, added the double din radio, rear subs, autodimming rear view mirror, 2013 civic console, 2 wires should be OK.

Any update on your cvt mileage, operating issues, concerns?
 

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My worst fear is getting the O2 sensor out. 12 years of salty winters and rust could be problematic.
I cant remember what size I think 17mm.

If your willing to scrap your old o2 sensor just clip the leads and try a deepwell spark plug socket.

I wanted to keep my old sensor just in case and took an old boxed end wrench and cut a slot out to stick the wires through and basically made a cheap mans flare nut wrench
 

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If it is just two wires no concern. The one link I say last night showed what appeared to be 6 to 8 wires pulled from a connector, splicing, etc. I wired in the harness for a grid charger to balance the ima battery, swapped one of the ecms or bcms, added the double din radio, rear subs, autodimming rear view mirror, 2013 civic console, 2 wires should be OK.

Any update on your cvt mileage, operating issues, concerns?
You do need to remove several wires from the ecu connectors. I think a few need to be removed from one location and put in a different spot also. These moved ones used in conjunction with your pre made harness so you can get your 5 wire laf sensor data output through the firewall and into the ecu using existing ‘old’ o2 sensor wiring in the oem wiring without having to run or hack any wires.

The pre made harness is really slick and clean

Be sure you spend extra time and read the part on mike d’s website about how the ecu connectors release and lock and unlock. Then take extra time and read it all over again so you have perfect understanding of this process and it will make everything so much easier.

Love the 2013 civic console post!!

My mileage has never been stellar compared to other drivers on the forum. I wouldn’t say I’m a hyper miler more of a “miler” without the hyper.

With that said I would “estimate” a safe to say 8mpg overall increase (10mpg probably) for me 75% town 25% highway.

Before the LB ecu I had to “think/try” to get 51 to 52 mpg, now without “thinking/trying” I usually see high 58 ’s to 59 mpg. If I “think/try” I can hit 60 to 62 mpg without diss. This is all on a weak battery. I also am running 010 bcm and 030 mcm if that matters.

No issues or concerns. LB after the first “warm up” engagement of the day is silky smooth! Not uncommon after slowing (but not completely stopping) say after a turn to remain in lean burn even at slow speeds and get 10 to 15 amps assist all while maintaining lean burn without a hitch.

Nearly effortless to get back into LB as well.
 

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crap! i got a pm for this on 5/25 for $550. Way to not check my pm's till now :(

Grzpdlr if you could hook me up that would be great. Ive been competing with my stock non-lb cvt, got 75.4mpg at the Green grand prix tied with a lb mt car for first in class.

My best tank was 72.3mpg, managed to keep 70+ tanks all last summer and fall.

If you guys with the jp-ecu could write down your mpg at speed while in lean burn on a flat road, that would be an invaluable resource for us stock cvt drivers to see how much improvements there could be.
 

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My worst fear is getting the O2 sensor out. 12 years of salty winters and rust could be problematic.
You have good reason to fear that.

My PACNW car, zero rust, o2 sensor threads clean ripped out. They basically smeared themselves into a lump of metal.

I was very careful when removing the o2 sensor. It would only turn a tiny bit then stop. I tried working it back and forth to free it up to no avail.

Ended up destroying the threads in the pipe and the o2 sensor itself.

I ended up removing the pipe, drilling out the old bung completely and welding in a new one.
 

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I wanted to keep my old sensor just in case and took an old boxed end wrench and cut a slot out to stick the wires through and basically made a cheap mans flare nut wrench
Harbor Freight has two styles of tools for O2 sensor removal for $6-8. Search results for: 'oxygen sensor' I stress every time I remove one of these, but I have been lucky and haven't ruined a bung yet. I always put anti-seize on the new sensor.

Sam
 

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I've been out here on the left coast playing and took grzpdlr's car out for a spin.
What a trip! That car went into lean burn, as evidenced by his OBDll, seconds into my ride. I seriously bet that his CVT will go into lean burn quicker than any MT on this forum. Amazing car.
Gerald
 

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I used a normal 7/8" open end wrench to remove the O2 sensors. On the 2nd sensor I use a nibbler to cut away the heat shield enough so I can get the open end wrench on the O2 hex.

A few days before I plan on taking the sensor out I dribble Liquid Wrench on the O2, let it evaporate. You can drive the car if necessary and apply some more LW when things cool off.

If you are planning on removing the 1st cat I dribble some Liquid Wrench for a few days on the three nuts that hold the cat pipe to the engine and the two spring loaded bolts at the bottom end. It doesn't hurt to dribble some LW on the bracket bolt either. With a little care you can remove the 1st cat upward and out of the car.

If you can't get the O2 connectors apart I've found that you can unscrew the sensors ~4 turns and they will come out of the bungs. When it's time to reinstall the sensors just pre wind the cable 4 turns counterclockwise when looking down on the top of the sensor and the cable will not have any twist in it when the sensor is tightened up.

So far everything has come loose with no trouble. And do use some anti seize on the threads.
 
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