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Inspired by this thread I purchased a pair of LED headlights off Amazon that said they worked as DRLs and brights.

I went with the fan-cooling model, as I have another pair for my low beams and they work great.

Unfortunately, the fan is too big to get the bulbs installed even without the additional cover attached.

Heat sink versions are probably the way to go...
Those little fans make a lot of noise!! I've just put a pair on my low beam, at the first I thought it was the cooling fan from the radiator :/ ?
 

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You only really notice them when Auto Stop is engaged :)

The noise is worth it IMO, but I am intrigued by the heatsink models.

I'm still very interested in striider's video regarding the DRLs and brights.
 

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You only really notice them when Auto Stop is engaged :)

The noise is worth it IMO, but I am intrigued by the heatsink models.

I'm still very interested in striider's video regarding the DRLs and brights.

hmm, on the instructions from my pair it says I'll need a capacitor for DRL and resistor for high beam.... Ehh... Excuse me? Aren't they the same bulb? Lmfao

IMG_0084.jpg
Here's how mine look on snow. I had to wiggle it a bit to make it produce a desirable projection, and it looks funny on the headlight. Will take more pictures later on
 

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hmm, on the instructions from my pair it says I'll need a capacitor for DRL and resistor for high beam.... Ehh... Excuse me? Aren't they the same bulb? Lmfao

View attachment 53762
Here's how mine look on snow. I had to wiggle it a bit to make it produce a desirable projection, and it looks funny on the headlight. Will take more pictures later on
They are the same bulb, and mine are working well. Wife says she loves being able to see at night with her no longer 21 year old eyes. Only issue so far is the DRL ding ding ding during the day unless you turn on the headlights. I think that's where the resistor comes in so the system senses proper current draw. Anyone have specifics on that mod?

Yes, I have been preoccupied with a huge home remodeling project, and it's been snowing, so that video will still be coming!

Edit: Looks like I need this for the closest thing to a plug and play solution. http://us.bidvoy.net/playstation_3/139971
As I know my way around a soldering gun, I wonder what actual resistor they use and where I would splice it, hmmm. Also wondering how the relays factor in, guess they bypass the resistor somehow when the hi beams go on?

Hmm- A simpler solution may be available. Just ordered it since it's only $8.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x9005-Head...ash=item27ff6135c9:g:1-IAAOSwBLlVU~mo&vxp=mtr
 

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I finally made good on my promise for a video, and got the anti-flicker/DRL warning light harness installed. It works! The video makes it look like they flicker, but I can assure you they do not to the naked eye.


They have 0 flicker before and after harness install, and no DRL warning after harness install. You do have to hook it up as seen in the diagram on Ebay for it to work. It needs a resistor on both power outputs from the car's wiring harness.
 

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Awesome! Is the light output of the bulbs the same when they're running as DRL vs high beam? Or is the high beam brighter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Great post guys but I have to admit the high beam bulbs seem like an aweful lot of work with the rewiring as described in the prior video. For now I am using the LED's in the low beams only and will wait on the high beams until they make one specifically for Honda.

When I bought the low beams from Auxbeam they said the Honda High Beam version was "just around the corner". Hopefully they will be available soon.
 

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I just installed these:

Hi beam: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Osl...32751078270.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.evhm3t

Low beam: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Osl...32750257275.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.evhm3t

I have no issues with fitment other than the fact that the cooling braid and the little transformer box for the high beams are enclosed inside the large sealed grey compartment behind the light. They just barely fit and allowed the compartment to close and seal. In my opinion, this is a silly design. I turned them on, and was able to measure the temp of the base using an infrared thermometer after running the vehicle and headlights about 10 minutes. They were around 110 degrees F, ambient temp was around 50 degrees. I am a bit concerned that cramming all the cooling fins and the little transformer box will cause overheating, and will be checking them soon.

As far as light, they put out much more light than the conventional bulbs that were in there, of a very white color. I will try to get pictures once I get the headlights adjusted correctly. The high beam bulbs I removed even had big bulges on the side of the bulb, so I am sure they were about to fail.

I will update this post.
Update 9/27/2017:
Driver's side low beam H11 bulb went out after ~9 months. It began blinking as it failed, then only lights very dimly now on one side of the bulb itself. https://goo.gl/m7p6SY

I moved the bulb to the other side for testing and tried it with the other driver, and it is definitely the bulb that failed, not the driver (little rectangular box that supplies power to the LED).

Opened a conversation with the Aliexpress seller, but only a 30 day warranty was implied so they offered a discount for a replacement, but didn't tell me what discount they were offering yet.

I don't have a way to estimate hours of use, but 9 months of mostly daytime driving isn't very good IMO. I may order another pair to see if they last, but this experiment may be over soon. The high beams and the other low beam still work well, but driving around with high beams on makes enemies quickly. The driver's side has been reverted to old yellow ugly bulb for now. The wife will NOT be happy if she loses her nice lights now that she is used to them.

Tip: If you do this, make sure you mount the heat sinks for the resistor DRL harness up and away from everything using screws. One of my resistors contacted a plug and melted it quite a bit. It is still serviceable but not pristine anymore :(
 

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damn can't i just buy a bulb that's brighter than stock and stick it in im too lazy lol (canadian car)

high beam i can see at night but low beam JEEZ man might as well drive in the dark
 

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Sometimes i wonder if I am the only person that can see in the dark. Well, I could before all of you decided to blind me.
 

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The lens projectors have a sharp cutoff and very low stray light. I am pretty sure my HIDs don't blind anyone ever.
 

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I have read that the headlights need to be adjusted higher on the Insight in general. I upgraded to Lasfit LC6 LEDs, the cheap $30 ones. Adjusted beams higher too. It's better but still not bright enough for me.

Want to try Kaso. Kleantrix reviewed the new ones on YouTube and they look insanely bright for 40 bucks.

HID seems a pain in the butt, but I hear DDM Tuning is good, and of course if you have the dough there's always Morimoto.
 

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I have read that the headlights need to be adjusted higher on the Insight in general. I upgraded to Lasfit LC6 LEDs, the cheap $30 ones. Adjusted beams higher too. It's better but still not bright enough for me.

Want to try Kaso. Kleantrix reviewed the new ones on YouTube and they look insanely bright for 40 bucks.

HID seems a pain in the butt, but I hear DDM Tuning is good, and of course if you have the dough there's always Morimoto.
you know what i think i might agree with this, im gonna see if the dealer can adjust my headlights so they aim a bit higher
 

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You can do it yourself with a screwdriver. There is a thread on here on how to do this, including pics.

Pretty easy to do actually. Just takes some trial and error. Masking tape and a flat wall are all you need. Oh, and the screwdriver.
 

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The lens projectors have a sharp cutoff and very low stray light. I am pretty sure my HIDs don't blind anyone ever.
Maybe it's the HIDs that will make the bigger difference, but I was starting to think the factory housings just aren't that great.

My other's 2013 Prius' factory halogens have MUCH sharper cutoff and are brighter than my LEDs or stocks...
 

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Maybe it's the HIDs that will make the bigger difference, but I was starting to think the factory housings just aren't that great.

My other's 2013 Prius' factory halogens have MUCH sharper cutoff and are brighter than my LEDs or stocks...
It is the size of the LEDs that's causing the vague cutoff.

I just bought a set of cheapo LED headlights not unlike yours, but with bigger and less powerful LEDs.
I did test them in the low beams. They have an even vaguer cutoff and generally don't make much of a nice beam, unlike my HIDs who have a very tiny discharge chamber (even smaller than a halogen lamp filament) and therefore a very sharp cutoff. But I use the LEDs as fogs/DRLs. They are ideal for lighting up the area when parking or navigating twisty unlit roads. And by day they're not too bright for oncoming traffic - but you do get noticed.

The LEDs were so cheap I suspected they would be faulty in some way, but they fitted and worked all right, except they are no good as low beams...
 

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Installed all my lights finally. Lasfit LC6 lows, Nokya yellow halogen DRLs, Lasfit golden yellow T10 parking/runner. Will upload pictures of DRLs shortly ...
Nice i had LED lights in my High beams..the pass side went bad.. so i put back the stock halogens. I was looking to find something brighter that would last longer. How does the Nokya look in the DRL set up during the day? My old led High beam/DRL set up were always bright...dont want to blind commuters any more

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Installed all my lights finally. Lasfit LC6 lows, Nokya yellow halogen DRLs, Lasfit golden yellow T10 parking/runner. Will upload pictures of DRLs shortly ...
Nice i had LED lights in my High beams..the pass side went bad.. so i put back the stock halogens. I was looking to find something brighter that would last longer. How does the Nokya look in the DRL set up during the day? My old led High beam/DRL set up were always bright...dont want to blind commuters any more

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Honestly, the DRLs are pretty muted in the daytime. Definitely different brightness level and coloration from the 'golden yellow' T10 LEDs ...as high beams they are pretty good. Overall, for 18 bucks they are really nice. I went with the Stage 1 55w version FWIW. Stage 2 was like 85 or 100w and recommended a harness.
 
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