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Recalled on what date?
 

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Recall says 1139 Ford and only 24 Stellantis (Jeep) vehicles...plus however many modules were in the supply pipeline when they found issues..

I recall mudder writing that the problem was poor ability to pass max amperage as used in a full battery electric vehicle. We'll be using a much lower max draw, so no problem for our application.
 

· Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
I recall mudder writing that the problem was poor ability to pass max amperage as used in a full battery electric vehicle. We'll be using a much lower max draw, so no problem for our application.
Correct: my understanding is that the battery tab welding machine wasn't calibrated correctly, and was under-attaching the cell terminals. This lowers their maximum current handing capabilities, but Linsight doesn't get anywhere close to the current Ford is using in their vehicles. Also, with LiBCM even if a tab did open, there's no safety issue... you'll just get a CEL and the IMA system will disable. There could also be damage to the LiBCM PCB, but it doesn't pose a safety risk.

The supplier I purchased these modules from said they weren't related to the recall... but I don't know where else they'd be coming from. I have a hunch they're recalled modules... can't prove it.
 

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The supplier I purchased these modules from said they weren't related to the recall... but I don't know where else they'd be coming from. I have a hunch they're recalled modules... can't prove it.
A client of mine is working on wholesaling some "recalled" Kona packs. From my understanding they're removed from the vehicle for the chance they're part of the recall, and when it's found they don't contain recalled components they are cleared for rebuild/scrap. (Very wasteful process, I'm surprised they don't have a record of what components went into each pack.)
Something similar to that may be going on with the FoMoCo batteries but I haven't been able to find definitive info on what these modules are from either.
 

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John, I continue to ponder whether I want to go with 4 or 5 of the 47Ah FoMoCo batteries and I'm pondering the lack of background charging in the 60S version. My wife's plugin Prius works like this: it is a PHEV until the state of charge gets low enough that it starts operating like a traditional (non-plugin) hybrid. When the SOC reaches that point, it still has regen braking and engine background charging as needed. However, in the absence of serious regen braking (think going down a long, steep mountain), the SOC never again gets high enough to run in pure EV mode until I plug the car back in and grid charge.

You've said that the 60S FoMoCo solution " is able to regen a 60S pack when you let off the gas and/or apply the brake. However, the typical background regen when the pack is low doesn't actually charge the pack. This causes the pack to tend towards discharged." When you wrote about your trip to Wisconsin, you wrote "I arrived at our destination with 11% SoC (i.e. 1% left to spare)." If you had not had access to any grid chargers and you then had to continue your trip to, say, San Francisco, what would have happened? Would you essentially be driving the rest of your trip with out any hybrid assist?

If that is so, and if I want my Insight to be able to engine charge so that once the SOC gets low enough, that I can continue to drive it as a traditional hybrid . . . then that means that I should prefer the 48S FoMoCo, right? If I go with the 48S, can I prevent the car from force charging all the way up to 50, or so, percent? In other words, will the software be configurable so that background engine charging might only force charge the required minimum so that the car can function as a traditional hybrid -- say between 15-25% SOC?

Just trying to make sure I fully understand what will happen to a 60S if the SOC gets low enough and I can't plugin.

Thanks,
-Bryan
 

· Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter · #148 · (Edited)
John, I continue to ponder whether I want to go with 4 or 5 of the 47Ah FoMoCo batteries
I'd get QTY5 modules, so you can use either QTY4 or QTY5. With the IMA cover off, changing between the two configurations takes only a few minutes. All you have to do is unplug one Anderson cable and plug it into another one, and then update the firmware.** The only tools you need are those to remove the IMA cover itself.

Ultimately you'll probably want QTY5 modules (more range, more power). Initially using QTY4 modules will be more reliable, until you understand all the corner cases that can lead to Pcodes while using the QTY5 module configuration (e.g. hard acceleration hard below 1800 rpm). These will be fixed eventually... probably entirely in firmware, but it's possible we'll need to implement Peter's "IGBT overcurrent hack" modification to the MCM if you want to keep full power at lower RPM.

Note that I've been driving with QTY5 modules for about five months now... haven't had a QTY5-module-specific CEL in several months. Of course that's because I avoid high assist at low RPM. Note that if I disable the +40% current hack, then CELs never occur.

**Note: LiBCM can easily determine which configuration you're using, but doing so introduces a safety issue if certain hardware failures occur. Therefore, I require the user to manually select the pack cell configuration. Behind the scenes, LiBCM still checks which configuration you're using (48S or 60S), but will sound an alarm if the value you set disagrees with the value LiBCM determines.

I'm pondering the lack of background charging in the 60S version.
Just to clarify: 60S (QTY5 module) configuration supports background charging. It's just slightly weaker than OEM, unless you're using a manual IMA controller (in which case you can assist and regen as you please, just as long as engine RPM is high enough. For example, I can regen at full power at 3000 RPM. I have no idea how this translates to the CVT, but my understanding is the CVT already operates at higher RPM than the MT, so I suspect there isn't an issue.

My wife's plugin Prius works like this: it is a PHEV until the state of charge gets low enough that it starts operating like a traditional (non-plugin) hybrid. When the SOC reaches that point, it still has regen braking and engine background charging as needed. However, in the absence of serious regen braking (think going down a long, steep mountain), the SOC never again gets high enough to run in pure EV mode until I plug the car back in and grid charge.
60S (QTY5 module) LiBCM can charge at full power, even when the battery is almost fully charged... you just need higher engine RPM. In general I'm finding that with 60S I tend to stay in lower gears than I used to... but that's just because I like to drive entirely with the electric motor.

You've said that the 60S FoMoCo solution " is able to regen a 60S pack when you let off the gas and/or apply the brake. However, the typical background regen when the pack is low doesn't actually charge the pack. This causes the pack to tend towards discharged."
I've actually improved OEM regen behavior since writing that statement. Note that since I now primarily operate in manual IMA mode, I can basically keep the SoC at any level I desire, just as long as engine RPM is high enough.

Remember that the 47Ah FoMoCo product is intended for those who:
-grid charge regularly, and;
-have a manual IMA controller.

IMO it doesn't make sense to install a battery this large without both of the above.

When you wrote about your trip to Wisconsin, you wrote "I arrived at our destination with 11% SoC (i.e. 1% left to spare)." If you had not had access to any grid chargers and you then had to continue your trip to, say, San Francisco, what would have happened? Would you essentially be driving the rest of your trip with out any hybrid assist?
I was using manual IMA control on that trip. I specifically wanted to arrive at my destination with an empty pack.
In your hypothetical, LiBCM would have no problem recharging the battery en route to San Francisco. This remains true even without the manual IMA controller... for example, if set my IMA controller to OEM mode, then on my way from Madison to SFO the pack would background charge up to the standard 60% or so... it would just take longer to do so, due to the slower OEM regen rate when using QTY5 modules.

At this point, if my trip/round-trip is over 30 miles, I'll always reach the 'end' with an empty battery. I basically use this table to determine the average assist I should apply:
Total trip duration (hours)Average Assist (kW)Average Assist (HP)
0.515.620.8
1.07.810.4
23.95.2
32.63.5
42.02.7
51.62.1
100.81.0

For each trip, once I'm on the highway, I set my manual IMA controller to the appropriate value.

If that is so, and if I want my Insight to be able to engine charge so that once the SOC gets low enough, that I can continue to drive it as a traditional hybrid . . . then that means that I should prefer the 48S FoMoCo, right?
See above. Either 48S (QTY4 modules) or 60S (QTY5 modules) will work just fine. You'd opt for 48S if you "just want it to work", whereas you'd opt for 60S if you "just want it to work eventually".

If I go with the 48S, can I prevent the car from force charging all the way up to 50, or so, percent? In other words, will the software be configurable so that background engine charging might only force charge the required minimum so that the car can function as a traditional hybrid -- say between 15-25% SOC?
If you don't use a manual IMA controller, right now the SoC behavior is basically identical to OEM:
-when SoC is high, the ECM will request more assist
-when SoC is low, the ECM will request less assist
-With 60S, regen is slightly reduced, hence it will take longer to increase SoC, but SoC will still increase

...

I was just thinking yesterday that I need to record another long driving video to show off 47 Ah LiBCM. It's raining today and I'm working on the firmware, but next time I just want to drive somewhere, I'll mount a camera in the car and show you the various operating modes. It'll be a long video, so that I can show the behavior changes when the pack is full versus empty... which takes 20+ miles.
 

· Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter · #151 · (Edited)
(Paraphrased) answers to a few questions sent to me from a member:


What is the driving experience like with FoMoCo and manual IMA control?"
I could NEVER go back to a stock insight. It is so much more fun to drive a car with two separately controlled energy sources. On trips less than 20 miles I basically never use the gas pedal or OEM brakes (except when I come to a complete stop). On longer trips it's fun to optimize assist to increase MPG, but also use the gas pedal so as to conserve the assist until it's actually needed.

10 kWh + manual IMA control is absolutely a game changer. This will come as no surprise to all those who've had larger (but not this large) lithium batteries for years now. This is nothing new... it's just better and more available to the general insight community.

Stay tuned for a video I plan to film next week wherein I show off the various driving strategies I've adopted now that I have a massively larger battery and a manual IMA controller.

How much will mpg increase?
With a stock MT insight:
-I pretty much always get mid-to-high 50 MPG (both highway and city).
-Before I moved to mountainous Chattanooga, I typically got 60 MPG.
-I once drove agonizingly slow for an entire tank, eeking out 750 miles before running out of gas.

After installing 47Ah FoMoCo and the manual IMA controller I designed:
-My around-town fuel MPG has increased from high-50s to over 200 MPG(fuel). You read that correctly.
-On 2 hour trips, I get around 150 MPG(fuel) on a single charge.
-On 10 hours trips, I get around 74 MPG(fuel) on a single charge.
-My last tank of fuel lasted just over 1000 miles. This might seem low given the numbers above, but I regularly drive several hours on a single trip, which requires more fuel (since I don't charge en route). If all trips on a single tank were less than 1 hour, then I'd expect to achieve around 2000 miles on a single tank of gas. If all trips on a single tank were less than 30 minutes, then you basically wouldn't use gas at all.

Note: I'm still pretty new to hypermiling and am still figuring out the ideal drive parameters. Those drivers that are already achieving over 100 MPG with stock NiMH batteries are going to laugh at how 'bad' my MPG numbers are.

How much more power will I have when I need it?
Combined with the excellent +40% current hack, LiBCM presently improves IMA power by around 100%. It's a pretty huge difference, particularly with a manual IMA controller (which I recommend to take full advantage of the increased capacity).

Future hardware and/or firmware updates will increase power output even more. In particular, LiMCM - which replaces the OEM MCM - could potentially quadruple the OEM power output (but who knows for how long).

Should I install this is my work car?
If you absolutely cannot afford downtime, then my recommendation is to not install LiBCM at all, at least until it leaves beta. I wouldn't want to threaten your livelihood if LiBCM causes issues with your particular car. Do note that even if the IMA system fails, you'll still have the gas engine as a backup, so you won't be stranded, but you might be inconvenienced.

At this point I would drive my LiBCM-equipped car anywhere with zero notice.

Will a 47Ah FoMoCo LiBCM car actually save money?
In short, it would take years - if ever - to recuperate your initial outlay. Let's look at the math:
The cheapest self-installed 47Ah FoMoCo option is $2800 ($1800 for the kit from me, plus $1000 for QTY4 (48S) FoMoCo modules).

Assuming you pay $3.50/gallon of gas, the cheapest LiBCM install costs the same as purchasing 800 gallons of gas, which is equivalent to driving 48,000 miles if you average 60 MPG. But it'll take even longer than that to recuperate your FoMoCo outlay, as you'll be consuming energy from the wall now, too. At $0.14/kWh, it costs $0.87 to fully charge an empty 48S FoMoCo pack. On my last tank, I used 110 kWh and drove just over 1000 miles. Using the numbers above, I spent $35 on gas ($3.50 * 10 gallons) and $15.40 on electricity ($0.14 * 110 kWh).

With a stock insight, I would have consumed 18 gallons of gas driving 1000 miles, which would cost $63 for fuel (and $0 for electricity). Therefore, I appear to have saved $12.60 driving 1000 miles. Therefore, to recoup the upfront LiBCM cost, I'd need to drive over 200,000 miles. This mileage will decrease substantially if you only ever drive short trips, particularly if your fuel-to-kWh expense ratio is higher than in my example above.

Note that if your gas price is higher, then your kWh price is probably also higher, too... which probably cancels out any regional differences.

So if your goal is to save money, it's going to take a while to achieve it. In general this holds true for all electric vehicles. The primary exception would be if you aren't the one paying the power bill. For example, if your work allows you to charge for free, then you'd end up saving $28/1000 miles (based on my usage pattern), which would require 'only' 100,000 miles to recoup the initial LiBCM outlay. If you're lucky enough to pay nothing to charge - and you only drive short trips - then you basically wouldn't use gas, in which case the initial "48,000 miles to break even" figure is valid.

However, if your goal is to have fun, improve the driving experience, or just to not emit CO2, then LiBCM might be just what you need. I'm great at marketing ;).

How much more difficult is it to install the FoMoCo Kit versus the 5AhG3 Kit?
Expect the 47Ah conversion process to take twice as long. The individual steps are about the same difficulty... there's just more of them because this is completely replacing the OEM battery enclosure and repositioning several OEM components in the IMA bay. The FoMoCo installation videos will be of similar quality to those I already made for the 5AhG3 install.
 

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(Paraphrased) answers to a few questions sent to me from a member:



I could NEVER go back to a stock insight. It is so much more fun to drive a car with two separately controlled energy sources. On trips less than 20 miles I basically never use the gas pedal or OEM brakes (except when I come to a complete stop). On longer trips it's fun to optimize assist to increase MPG, but also use the gas pedal so as to conserve the assist until it's actually needed.

10 kWh + manual IMA control is absolutely a game changer. This will come as no surprise to all those who've had larger (but not this large) lithium batteries for years now. This is nothing new... it's just better and more available to the general insight community.

Stay tuned for a video I plan to film next week wherein I show off the various driving strategies I've adopted now that I have a massively larger battery and a manual IMA controller.


With a stock MT insight:
-I pretty much always get mid-to-high 50 MPG (both highway and city).
-Before I moved to mountainous Chattanooga, I typically got 60 MPG.
-I once drove agonizingly slow for an entire tank, eeking out 750 miles before running out of gas.

After installing 47Ah FoMoCo and the manual IMA controller I designed:
-My around-town fuel MPG has increased from high-50s to over 200 MPG(fuel). You read that correctly.
-On 2 hour trips, I get around 150 MPG(fuel) on a single charge.
-On 10 hours trips, I get around 74 MPG(fuel) on a single charge.
-My last tank of fuel lasted just over 1000 miles. This might seem low given the numbers above, but I regularly drive several hours on a single trip, which requires more fuel (since I don't charge en route). If all trips on a single tank were less than 1 hour, then I'd expect to achieve around 2000 miles on a single tank of gas. If all trips on a single tank were less than 30 minutes, then you basically wouldn't use gas at all.

Note: I'm still pretty new to hypermiling and am still figuring out the ideal drive parameters. Those drivers that are already achieving over 100 MPG with stock NiMH batteries are going to laugh at how 'bad' my MPG numbers are.


Combined with the excellent +40% current hack, LiBCM presently improves IMA power by around 100%. It's a pretty huge difference, particularly with a manual IMA controller (which I recommend to take full advantage of the increased capacity).

Future hardware and/or firmware updates will increase power output even more. In particular, LiMCM - which replaces the OEM MCM - could potentially quadruple the OEM power output (but who knows for how long).


If you absolutely cannot afford downtime, then my recommendation is to not install LiBCM at all, at least until it leaves beta. I wouldn't want to threaten your livelihood if LiBCM causes issues with your particular car. Do note that even if the IMA system fails, you'll still have the gas engine as a backup, so you won't be stranded, but you might be inconvenienced.

At this point I would drive my LiBCM-equipped car anywhere with zero notice.



In short, it would take years - if ever - to recuperate your initial outlay. Let's look at the math:
The cheapest self-installed 47Ah FoMoCo option is $2800 ($1800 for the kit from me, plus $1000 for QTY4 (48S) FoMoCo modules).

Assuming you pay $3.50/gallon of gas, the cheapest LiBCM install costs the same as purchasing 800 gallons of gas, which is equivalent to driving 48,000 miles if you average 60 MPG. But it'll take even longer than that to recuperate your FoMoCo outlay, as you'll be consuming energy from the wall now, too. At $0.14/kWh, it costs $0.87 to fully charge an empty 48S FoMoCo pack. On my last tank, I used 110 kWh and drove just over 1000 miles. Using the numbers above, I spent $35 on gas ($3.50 * 10 gallons) and $15.40 on electricity ($0.14 * 110 kWh).

With a stock insight, I would have consumed 18 gallons of gas driving 1000 miles, which would cost $63 for fuel (and $0 for electricity). Therefore, I appear to have saved $12.60 driving 1000 miles. Therefore, to recoup the upfront LiBCM cost, I'd need to drive over 200,000 miles. This mileage will decrease substantially if you only ever drive short trips, particularly if your fuel-to-kWh expense ratio is higher than in my example above.

Note that if your gas price is higher, then your kWh price is probably also higher, too... which probably cancels out any regional differences.

So if your goal is to save money, it's going to take a while to achieve it. In general this holds true for all electric vehicles. The primary exception would be if you aren't the one paying the power bill. For example, if your work allows you to charge for free, then you'd end up saving $28/1000 miles (based on my usage pattern), which would require 'only' 100,000 miles to recoup the initial LiBCM outlay. If you're lucky enough to pay nothing to charge - and you only drive short trips - then you basically wouldn't use gas, in which case the initial "48,000 miles to break even" figure is valid.

However, if your goal is to have fun, improve the driving experience, or just to not emit CO2, then LiBCM might be just what you need. I'm great at marketing ;).


Expect the 47Ah conversion process to take twice as long. The individual steps are about the same difficulty... there's just more of them because this is completely replacing the OEM battery enclosure and repositioning several OEM components in the IMA bay. The FoMoCo installation videos will be of similar quality to those I already made for the 5AhG3 install.
I just don't wanna deal with getting fuel 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️. My commute is 18mi round trip, I would rarely ever have to fill up.
 

· Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter · #154 · (Edited)
FYI: I'm finally responding to each person who has reserved a DIY 47Ah FoMoCo LiBCM Kit... I haven't done so since 2022SEP23. Yikes, where did all that time go?

Here are some answers to questions y'all asked when filling out that form:
Do you still have FoMoCo modules available?
Yes, I still have several sets available. If you'd like to reserve a set, please fill out this form.

My price is $300 per module.

I can buy FoMoCo modules cheaper from batteryhookup, including shipping.
FYI: The modules I sell:
-Are 100% verified to work at their full rated capacity, and;
-Are pre-balanced and stored in a climate controlled garage at optimum SoC, and;
-Are already modified to work with LiBCM (i.e. I already performed internal plastic mods and replaced the internal PCB), and;
-Are already labeled (to make plugging in each cable easier)

Note that legally shipping these modules requires a hazardous materials certification (which I have), and also a +$75 hazmat charge per module. I can't compete with those that ship these modules without proper labeling/certification.

I don't care if you buy them me or from somewhere else. Honestly I only bought this many to make sure there were enough modules reserved for the project to make sense to productize. I don't expect to make any money selling them. Honestly I should charge more, but here we are.

What else do I need to perform the DIY FoMoCo conversion?
I sell every part you need to perform the FoMoCo conversion. This includes all mechanicals required to safely mount the batteries, all cabling, all the nuts and bolts. Everything but the batteries is included with each Kit. The only thing you'll need is common tools (sockets, screw drivers, wire cutters, etc).

I sell FoMoCo batteries separately from the kit. If you want both, fill out both forms. Once you have batteries and a kit, that's everything you need to perform the conversion, except for the tools.

What optional parts do you recommend to make LiBCM even better?
There are a few optional parts that you might also want:
-a +40% current hack PCB (from @Bull Dog), which also requires a larger fuse (also from @Bull Dog).
-a manual IMA controller. There are several different versions sold by several different people. Note that after performing the FoMoCo conversion, there is very little room near the wire harness. Therefore, some manual IMA controllers are not compatible with the FoMoCo setup because there physically isn't enough room to install them. At present I do not know which existing manual IMA controllers will physically fit in the bay. Note that I will start selling a 100% compatible manual IMA controller later this year (probably a couple months after 47Ah FoMoCo starts shipping). If you don't already have a manual IMA controller, then my recommendation is to wait for that product to ship.
-a Nextion LCD touch screen, which is an upgrade to the 4x20 display that ships with LiBCM. User @Natalya is presently writing the UI for that product, which is called 'LiDisplay'.

If I choose the basic charger for the 47ah battery, can I upgrade later?
Yes, but you will need to return the original charger you purchased (or pay more if you want to keep it).
FYI: The LiBCM PCB is identical regardless of which charger you use.

When will DIY 47Ah FoMoCo LiBCM Kits start shipping?
It will be at least a couple months. Right now I'm working on improving the firmware, so that the 5AhG3 project can exit open beta. I don't know how long that will take, but there's a bunch of firmware work left. Once I have a 1.0.0 release candidate, I will focus on shipping FoMoCo kits. Note that there are presently QTY27 in line for the FoMoCo kit, so once the kits do start shipping, it'll be a bit before I ship additional reservations.

When will DIY 5AhG3 FoMoCo LiBCM Kits start shipping?
I started shipping them as part of an Open Beta in 2022JAN. Right now I'm out of stock, and don't plan to build more until the firmware is further along (same timeline as previous question).

Can I pay more to cut the line?
No.

Will 47Ah FoMoCo also have a heater solution for cold weather?
Yes. It will cost extra ($TBD). It should be available day 1.

Which grid chargers work on which voltages?
All grid chargers I sell work with either 120 VAC or 240 VAC outlets.
Previously I considered offering a fast charger that only supported 240 VAC, but I received overwhelming feedback that nobody would use it.

Does LiBCM support J1772 charging?
Yes, and it works with all LiBCM kits, regardless of which grid charger is used.

To use J1772, you need to:
-purchase a J1772 adapter
-(optional) mount the adapter behind your license plate. @KLR3CYL sells a bracket that will allow your license plate to fold down (exposing the adapter via a hole cut through the plastic bumper).
-Plug the adapter into LiBCM's 5-15 connector (i.e. standard US plug).

There are no electrical or firmware modifications required for this to work. You just need the plug linked above. If you don't want to mount it, you can gentry latch your extension cord between the rear hatch and rubber trim.

LiBCM is too expensive. Will you sell it to me for $XXXX?
No. LiBCM is a bargain. Please stop asking.

Will you install LiBCM in my car?
No. I only sell kits.
 

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There are a few optional parts that you might also want:
-a +40% current hack PCB (from @Bull Dog), which also requires a larger fuse (also from @Bull Dog).
-a manual IMA controller. There are several different versions sold by several different people. Note that after performing the FoMoCo conversion, there is very little room near the wire harness. Therefore, some manual IMA controllers are not compatible with the FoMoCo setup because there physically isn't enough room to install them. At present I do not know which existing manual IMA controllers will physically fit in the bay. Note that I will start selling a 100% compatible manual IMA controller later this year (probably a couple months after 47Ah FoMoCo starts shipping). If you don't already have a manual IMA controller, then my recommendation is to wait for that product to ship.
-a Nextion LCD touch screen, which is an upgrade to the 4x20 display that ships with LiBCM. User @Natalya is presently writing the UI for that product, which is called 'LiDisplay'.
UK owners can get the current hack and larger fuses from me.
My IMAC&C P&P (manual control) is fitted inside the MCM so works happily with LiBCM/Linsight and is not space constrained. ;)
 

· Linsight Designer
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4,940 Posts
Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Put all that in the first post!
It'll eventually all end up in the "Introducing the 47Ah LiBCM Lithium Conversion" post (to be made at a later date).

My IMAC&C P&P (manual control) is fitted inside the MCM so works happily with LiBCM/Linsight and is not space constrained. ;)
Good to know! I wasn't sure whether your manual IMA controller fit entirely within the MCM or not... I knew part of it did, but great to hear it'll work with LiBCM FoMoCo!
 

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I found this, looks to be the same or similar battery. These ones were tested by greentech at 30 amp hours. The modules themselves are clearly marked 2.07 kWh.


So now we know that the Ford escape plug in hybrid batteries might be compatible.
 

· Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
I would stay far, far away from a 47 Ah battery that has dropped down to 30 Ah.
For reference, in the long term testing I did last year, capacity only dropped 4.4 Ah after QTY1257 cycles. These 30 Ah modules have lost nearly four times more capacity.

Further, these beat to hell modules are $400 each...
...which is $100 more than I charge for the full-rated 47 Ah modules that have already been modified for use with LiBCM.
 
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