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I've read Mudder's FAQ on SOC differences between the LiBCM 4x20 display, OBDIIC&C, and the dashboard display. Keeping those differences in mind, does anybody know how low the SOC needs to be before the car starts to force charge the lithium battery? On my old OEM battery/BCM it usually would start to force charge when the SOC got down to about 64%. Thanks!
 

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I've read Mudder's FAQ on SOC differences between the LiBCM 4x20 display, OBDIIC&C, and the dashboard display. Keeping those differences in mind, does anybody know how low the SOC needs to be before the car starts to force charge the lithium battery? On my old OEM battery/BCM it usually would start to force charge when the SOC got down to about 64%. Thanks!
The car doesn't determine that, LiBCM does. It starts force charging at 58%, and stops at 61.
 

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I'm curious if anybody is having as much trouble with garbage output on the 4x20 display, as I am? I went to the trouble, yesterday, of rerouting my display cable down and out through the air intake behind the passenger seat and then routing the cable around the passenger seat and up to the cup holders. At first, I thought it was an improvement, as I didn't have any problems this morning on my 30 minute commute. However, this afternoon on my way home, it turned to garbage output after about 10 minutes. I pulled over at an exit. It was so messed up that turning off the car didn't cause the display to turn off. I ended up having to flip the IMA switch, twice, and then two more key off/ons before it finally started working again. Then, I drove away, only to have it mess up again after about 1/4 mile. I got home and had the same problem -- getting the display to reset is very difficult again. I don't have any other problems with my LiBCM -- no buzzer warnings and no CELs, so far. But this display is practically unusable. I'm going to wrap the display cable around a clip on ferrite to see if it helps.
 

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The temporary beta tester 4x20 I2C lcd is borderline/susceptible with the long cable.

You def need to keep it away from the motor wires and route it out of the ipu compartment as soon as practicable after it leaves the LiBCM PCB.

A bad connection on the sil 0.1" pin connector on the pcb/lcd or touchy lcd unit itself could add to the problem.

Odd erroneous cell voltage readings can occur due to interference/bugs/bad connections etc and the firmware is nowhere near finished yet. ;)

If a cell really was at 5.535V you would have found out via an alternate method by now. :eek:

Use the Arduino serial logging option to watch the cell voltages on your laptop so we can check if you have a bad connection.
 

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@mmdepace Can you hook the USB up to a computer while grid charging and check the cell voltages using Arduino Serial Monitor? We need to see if you've actually got cells reading at 0, which could mean a connection issue inside the pack.
 

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I'm fairly certain something is wrong either with my 4x20 display, the display cable, or the arduino. To keep the display from being lit up all night last night, I turned off my IMA switch. This morning I turned the IMA switch back on. And interestingly, the display lit up briefly and then turned off -- like it is supposed to. Then, before starting my car up, I thought to myself, "Bryan, you never zip-tied the display cable to the display, like Mudder shows in his video. So I proceeded to do that. As I was tightening the zip-tie, the display lit up on its own (key was not in the ignition) and looked like this:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Audio equipment Gadget


This is what it was doing last night, as well. I found this page that mentions: "That display means that you have not initialised the display controller correctly. So it could be hardware or it could be software." Another comment on that page states: "That is the 'Power Up' pattern shown for that LCD controller. it persists until the Initialisation is completed."

Even when the display does appear to initialize correctly, it then malfunctions in other ways. See the below video as an example of what I'm referring to:

 

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@joeaax1j Sounds like you have a bad connection on the 4 core/pin cable.

The display is working but locking up and not turning off/on again.

I suggest check the SIL pins/header connector at the LCD end of the cable first.
If that is OK unfortunately you will have to pull the pack to get access to those same pins at the other end of the cable on the LiBCM pcb.

Maybe make up an identical cable with header connectors and swap yours out.
 

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Thanks, Peter. I don't have any experience with Arduinos or these displays, but I'll start some googling to see if I can find out what I'm parts I need to make these types of cables. Also, this weekend, I'll pull the pack and check for continuity between each of the individual wires in the cable.

-Bryan
 

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I would def make up a spare/new cable before pulling the pack.
It's just 4 core signal wire with SIL 0.1" female connectors on each end.
 

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I used a 6 ft USB cable that had integral ferrites on the ends. I hacked the USB plugs off, but kept the ferrites. I routed the roughly 3ft of cable that mudder supplied out the IMA bay alongside the OEM wire harness and made my connection to the modified cable at the between the IMA bay and the middle mat.

I routed my cabling (including a 10ft USB cable for programming the Arduino) under the carpet and out a factory hole in the carpet under the passenger seat.

With this setup, I've never had an spontaneous display corruption.
 

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I used a 6 ft USB cable that had integral ferrites on the ends. I hacked the USB plugs off, but kept the ferrites. I routed the roughly 3ft of cable that mudder supplied out the IMA bay alongside the OEM wire harness and made my connection to the modified cable at the between the IMA bay and the middle mat.
I'm using my own USB with ferrites for the Arduino data cable. Haven't seen any corruption on the 4x20, but not much seat time.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions everybody. Would somebody be able to post a link to these 4 pin female connectors? I'm not successfully finding anything.
 

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The hacked USB cable with ferrites is a good idea and should probably be the standard for the LiBCM beta kits when Mudder gets back up to speed.
 

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Edit: mudder is back and says this effect would be completely negligible in this case, which makes sense, and could make things worse by running power over smaller wires, so don’t bother with this:


I'm no cabling expert but the stock Linsight 4x20 display cable is just a regular USB 2.0 cable, in which the green and white wires are a twisted pair. It has SCL and SDA, which aren't differential signals, routed over that twisted pair, and this might not be helping things at all.

One quick fix to try if you aren't set up for crimping your own cables etc, is to modify the cable so that GND and SCL are the twisted pair instead. This isn't the greatest solution, but this display should be just a temporary thing anyway.
This would mean just de-pinning and swapping the black and white wires, on both ends of the cable, so it looks like this:

Calipers Bicycle handlebar Networking cables Bicycle tire Gadget


The pinout for the cable now is:
Display Side
GND (WHT)
VCC (RED)
SDA (BLK)
SCL (GRN)

LiBCM Side
GND (WHT)
SDA (BLK)
SCL (GRN)
VCC (RED)

I haven't installed my linsight pack yet but I'll probably try it both ways when I do.
If anyone thinks this is totally off-base let me know!
 
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