40% current hack definitely makes things a little odd if you tend to regen all the way down to the cutoff even without LiBCM. There's enough time between beginning to press the clutch and regen turning all the way off that it'll take the engine from 1000rpm to 0 if you don't time things perfectly (particularly in second gear), or will let the rpm bounce back up. Before the current hack I used to downshift a gear or two and regen, then downshift again and regen to a stop. With the current hack, I'll only drop down to 3rd gear which still gives a ton of braking if you need it, and it will very cleanly transition to autostop at 20mph without stalling or causing any issues.2.) Regen cutoff at lower limit - It seems that sometimes the system will reapply max regen at the lower RPM cut-off in each gear right during clutch pedal depression. Seems a lack of hysteresis as the car will reapply full regen right after disabling it due to low RPM cut off. It's as if the RPM goes up just enough after regen is stopped to make the car think it can regen again. By then the clutch pedal is depressed, and things are off. The issue is that this creates quite a jerk at the cutoff point during deceleration. It doesn't happen all the time, but the thing I've learned to do is just depress the clutch sooner before it shuts regen off.
Sorry for the lack of clarity. It is a bit strange to describe. I think weldoak describes it well in post #671. However, in my case, I don't necessarily have to be in second, nor do I have to downshift during regen to get this to happen. Matter of fact, I don't typically downshift. I just lightly depress the brake in the given gear I am in to activate full regen which I will cary to the lower RPM cut-off for that gear. It is at that point right when I am depressing the clutch and the car shuts off regen that the car seems to reapply full regen right after it cut it off causing a massive jerk, or a near engine stall if the clutch is depressed enough to remove the rest of the drivetrain from the equation. I hope that provides a little more clarity.2) I'm not sure I understand the behavior you're describing. It doesn't help that I almost never downshift while coming to a stop. Can you elaborate more?
I wasn't able to reproduce this in my car, but let's see if changing the following config.h parameters makes it go away:I just lightly depress the brake in the given gear I am in to activate full regen which I will cary to the lower RPM cut-off for that gear. It is at that point right when I am depressing the clutch and the car shuts off regen that the car seems to reapply full regen right after it cut it off causing a massive jerk, or a near engine stall if the clutch is depressed enough to remove the rest of the drivetrain from the equation.
//#define VOLTAGE_SPOOFING_DISABLE(i.e. remove the '//').
#define VOLTAGE_SPOOFING_ASSIST_AND_REGEN(i.e. add '//' to the beginning.
//#define SET_CURRENT_HACK_00in config.h
#define SET_CURRENT_HACK_40in config.h
Wait I can buy one right now? I didn't know they were available to buy yet. I seriously NEED one, but I'll probably end up buying 2.I'm fairly certain we figured out @BLS ' issue. I believe the issue is a poor mechanical connection inside the OEM BCM temperature sensor wire harness. At this moment BLS is deadbugging a wire that bypasses this connector.
Prior to figuring out the above, I recorded this rambly video:
-I found another bug in the voltage spoofing firmware. Honestly I'm amazed the MCM is ok with it... but since it's not causing any problems, I don't have any plans to immediately update the firmware... I've added the fix to my backlog.
-After I ship these QTY29 LiBCM units I'm building right now, I don't anticipate building more LiBCM units until I can finalize the v1.0.0 firmware (which will remove the 40 day update requirement).
-If you want an LiBCM unit before September(?), you should order one soon... because as soon as these QTY29 units are gone, that'll be it for a while.
-After I build these units, my plan is to focus on firmware for the next couple months.