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OK so both MCM's are ok internally which means we have to look elsewhere..
I’m good at being hand, not so much at ‘what’ to test :). I can connect with Linux, Mac, or windows machines, and have HPtuner for the win (not going to do much on Honda OBD2). If anything comes to mind, yell :)
 

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@thibble So with the standard MCM and 0% current hack firmware etc the only code you have now is P1586 (23) and that only occurs on first assist?

You have an MPI Motor current sensor & Battery current sensor miss-match issue or an LiBCM issue.

Is the switchboard you are using the unknown one from the junkyard pack?
Has it been left out in rain? The MPI sensor can rust internally...

You will need to test the MPI motor current sensor or maybe just easier to swap it out for the one on your other switchboard.. (It's the black sensor on the top + connector)

If that doesn't work swap out the white battery SOC current sensor as well/instead.

Carefully check those two grey connectors 1 x 4 pin 1 x 3 pin as well next to the blue one.
Font Screenshot Thigh Bicycle fork Event
 

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@thibble So with the standard MCM and 0% current hack firmware etc the only code you have now is P1586 (23) and that only occurs on first assist?

You have an MPI Motor current sensor & Battery current sensor miss-match issue or an LiBCM issue.

Is the switchboard you are using the unknown one from the junkyard pack?
Has it been left out in rain? The MPI sensor can rust internally...
For level set: The entire IMA switchboard was from my new (5 month old) Bumblebee, because the board on the one from the breakers was damaged in storage. I then obtained another very clean switchboard that I'm planning to put on the Bumblebee and sell to someone here on the forum after I test in car.

I'll try the swap of the sensors as directed after work today. Will be late your time :) so will look tomorrow for response.

Thank you for all the help!!
 

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One question - what are the input and output for the white battery SOC current sensor? Is the cable that runs through the center the input?
 

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@thibble Hold the press!!!! 'Houston we have a problem..'

I had a hunch after your latest symptoms and then looking closely at your pic below. 👀
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Bumper Automotive exterior


Your white battery current sensor is the wrong way round!! :eek:

Note the correct sensor orientation on the switchboard pic below.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Bumper


The system will never work with it the wrong way round.... Opps.. ;)
Hopefully this will fix it once and for all. (y)
 

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@thibble Hold the press!!!!

I had a hunch after re-reading the latest symptoms and then looking very closely at your pics.

Your white battery current sensor is the wrong way round!!

Note the correct sensor orientation on the switchboard pic below.

View attachment 94773
Holy......wow, I am so glad you saw that. I'll pull IMA tonight and flip it.
 

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That was of course the only issue, aside from salting the path with red herrings (my VPIN line consistently disconnecting). Most DIY won't run into that, my fault for putting the left hand in the path of a boat prop!.

Next question, can I use the current hack MCM I have or does it have the BCM Interceptor?
 
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Has anybody been grid charging each night? Can you share your approximate termination SOC when the temporary/beta v0.6.8 firmware gridcharging routine allows fans to rapid-cycle? I started charging at SOC 32 w/ dV of .003 and self-terminated my charge at SOC 66 w/ dV of .001 and fan rapid cycle. I believe I saw something similar last night, my first night of install. I have not modified config.h #define CELL_VMAX_GRIDCHARGER 39000
 

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Grid charging should automatically terminate around LiBCM SOC indicated 70-75%.
The fans might still turn on/off erratically for now as the firmware still needs lots of work and the beta code has no hysteresis IIRC.

Remember the OBDIIC&C reported SOC (what the car sees) is different to the actual cell (LiBCM SOC).
 

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@thibble Good news. (y)

Now you can install the current hacked MCM you have and +40% LiBCM firmware.

No. It does not need the BCM interceptor.
Nice, I was asking if it did have BCM interceptor since we were unsure during troubleshooting, it was popping two codes vice the one code from stock. I'll change it over today. Thank you again for catching my error!
 

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I got my LiBCM coversion completed this morning and back in the car. My LiBCM is one of the 18S->12S conversions. Worked very well. Mudder's videos are awesome. Just took the car for a short test drive. No IMA light and no CEL codes, so far. Everything seems to be working very well, for the most part. The only issue I'm seeing, so far, is corruption on the 4X20 display. It seems to happen during serious braking. Obviously, a key off/on resets the display. I just need to figure out why it seems to happen during every braking event.

-Bryan
 

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Does anybody know if putting a clip on ferrite over the 4x20 display cable would stop the display corruption issue?
 

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Is it possible to dim the 4x20 display? This thing is killing my eyes at night.
I think that was in the how-to....lemme see if I can find.

I can't find it, I thought it was the philips on the back of 4x20 but can't remember where i read it. At my age it could be just a dream sequence.....
 

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I think that was in the how-to....lemme see if I can find.

I can't find it, I thought it was the philips on the back of 4x20 but can't remember where i read it. At my age it could be just a dream sequence.....
That only adjust contrast unfortunately, not backlight brightness.
 

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No you can't adjust the brightness unless you hack the display.
Or maybe a firmware update might do it later.

The IMA greats a huge amount of electrical noise, it's killing my OBDIIC&C and the LiBCM LCD Comms on some cars. It's a problem that will be addressed in due course.
 
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