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No you can't adjust the brightness unless you hack the display.
Or maybe a firmware update might do it later.

The IMA greats a huge amount of electrical noise, it's killing my OBDIIC&C and the LiBCM LCD Comms on some cars. It's a problem that will be addressed in due course.
Hmm. Maybe I'll just install 50% tint film over the display then. That might give me the desired effect.
 

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No you can't adjust the brightness unless you hack the display.
Or maybe a firmware update might do it later.

The IMA greats a huge amount of electrical noise, it's killing my OBDIIC&C and the LiBCM LCD Comms on some cars. It's a problem that will be addressed in due course.
I remember all of the chatter on that. My display is bright and OBDIIC&C seems to be playing, but not much seat time. Hoping to swap in the currenthack MCM tomorrow with new flash and then button everything up.
 

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I hit a small snag.

I can only push my (converted) 18S- module about halfway into bay 2 (middle bay). After which the module wedges in and won't budge.

I took the (black rubber honeycomb?) out of bay 2, and the 18S- module slid right in. The module is just a little loose, but I can probably shim it with something if it needs to be tight.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Gas Automotive exterior Machine


Is it important to use the (black rubber honeycomb)? Or can it be discarded?

Thanks.

George
 

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Most likely you will have rattling while driving, not to mention it could cause fatigue somewhere with the vibration, it should fit (Snuggly) with the foam, I would check and make sure the foam sits flat and give it a second try, it will give you long term peace of mind.
 

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I hit a small snag.

I can only push my (converted) 18S- module about halfway into bay 2 (middle bay). After which the module wedges in and won't budge.

I took the (black rubber honeycomb?) out of bay 2, and the 18S- module slid right in. The module is just a little loose, but I can probably shim it with something if it needs to be tight.

View attachment 94801

Is it important to use the (black rubber honeycomb)? Or can it be discarded?

Thanks.

George
Could always try to put some lube on there, that normally helps when the rubber gets a little dry and causes some friction.
 

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@geocougar I don't know what Mudder would say to your question, but I will add that his official instructions in the 18S->12S conversion video specifically require removing the black rubber from bay 1. It isn't for the reasons you mention, but I did notice that my converted 12S module had more space around it with the rubber removed. However, once I got the end plates bolted on, everything seems solid and stable.
 

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Second UK owner LiBCM Beta install done this morning with Steve & Mel.
Fingers crossed for a stormy (weather) drive home.

They also had the new slider pot IMAC&C P&P manual IMA control mod installed (first in UK other than my own car)
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
I can only push my (converted) 18S- module about halfway into bay 2 (middle bay). After which the module wedges in and won't budge.
I took the (black rubber honeycomb?) out of bay 2, and the 18S- module slid right in. The module is just a little loose, but I can probably shim it with something if it needs to be tight.
Is it important to use the (black rubber honeycomb)? Or can it be discarded?
I've driven around 15000 miles without the rubber spacers installed. I put a small shim in, but that's probably not required; the (custom) aluminum plates that ship with LiBCM keep the module in place. IMO there's no issue removing them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
It's great to see y'all supporting each other in my absence. I should be back to LiBCM in a couple weeks. Right now we're dealing with my mother's estate. So far she doesn't appear to have a will and hadn't yet taken the time to do any end-of-life planning (and neither have I). I suspect she hadn't planned on dying at 61. That's pretty young. If you still have parents, take some time today to talk to them.
 

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My condolences, mudder....
 

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It's great to see y'all supporting each other in my absence. I should be back to LiBCM in a couple weeks. Right now we're dealing with my mother's estate. So far she doesn't appear to have a will and hadn't yet taken the time to do any end-of-life planning (and neither have I). I suspect she hadn't planned on dying at 61. That's pretty young. If you still have parents, take some time today to talk to them.
I was worried she wasn't going to make it :/. I feel your pain Mudder, and I know nothing I say will alleviate the pain you now feel. Best of wishes to you and your family. We just had to go through the same thing with my mom, nobody expected her to leave us at only 55.
 

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Very sorry to hear of your loss J. I’m past that age myself.
 

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My original 2001 IMA battery finally gave up the ghost in November 2021 and due to re-occurring engine faults and cutouts in the DC to DC charging of the 12v battery, I took it off the road for winter.

Yesterday I coaxed it from Morecambe to Perter Peter Perkins in Hull with the IMA disabled and doing my best to stay under 3,500 revs all of the way so that the 12v battery kept charging.

Today, Peter very efficiently fitted the new LiBCMM battery pack and everything worked perfectly again straight away. It's like having a new car! Very smooth ima battery assist power and plenty of it. The new battery is also very quick to re-charge using auto or selective re-gen.

I appreciate that this is a beta test system but it is still very impressive as it is.

Thanks to Peter Perkins, Mudder and everyone else involved in bringing this project to fruition.
 
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