Honda Insight Forum banner

LiBCM Open Beta Support Thread

163K views 3K replies 93 participants last post by  mudder 
#1 · (Edited)
This thread is for any and all questions related to LiBCM during the Open Beta.
After browsing www.linsight.org, if you still have questions, please post them here.

I will answer questions posted in this thread by updating the FAQ/Instructions/Documenation/etc at www.linsight.org.
I will probably respond to questions posted in this thread by replying with a hyperlink to the answer (which I may have just written).
 
#160 · (Edited)
No you can't adjust the brightness unless you hack the display.
Or maybe a firmware update might do it later.

The IMA greats a huge amount of electrical noise, it's killing my OBDIIC&C and the LiBCM LCD Comms on some cars. It's a problem that will be addressed in due course.
 
#161 ·
The IMA greats a huge amount of electrical noise, it's killing my OBDIIC&C and the LiBCM on some cars.
Gasp! It is killing LiBCM? As in permanently?? If so, that isn't good!
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Crimpcap
#166 ·
I hit a small snag.

I can only push my (converted) 18S- module about halfway into bay 2 (middle bay). After which the module wedges in and won't budge.

I took the (black rubber honeycomb?) out of bay 2, and the 18S- module slid right in. The module is just a little loose, but I can probably shim it with something if it needs to be tight.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Gas Automotive exterior Machine


Is it important to use the (black rubber honeycomb)? Or can it be discarded?

Thanks.

George
 
#168 · (Edited)
I hit a small snag.

I can only push my (converted) 18S- module about halfway into bay 2 (middle bay). After which the module wedges in and won't budge.

I took the (black rubber honeycomb?) out of bay 2, and the 18S- module slid right in. The module is just a little loose, but I can probably shim it with something if it needs to be tight.

View attachment 94801

Is it important to use the (black rubber honeycomb)? Or can it be discarded?

Thanks.

George
Could always try to put some lube on there, that normally helps when the rubber gets a little dry and causes some friction.
 
#169 ·
@geocougar I don't know what Mudder would say to your question, but I will add that his official instructions in the 18S->12S conversion video specifically require removing the black rubber from bay 1. It isn't for the reasons you mention, but I did notice that my converted 12S module had more space around it with the rubber removed. However, once I got the end plates bolted on, everything seems solid and stable.
 
#171 ·
Second UK owner LiBCM Beta install done this morning with Steve & Mel.
Fingers crossed for a stormy (weather) drive home.

They also had the new slider pot IMAC&C P&P manual IMA control mod installed (first in UK other than my own car)
 
#175 ·
It's great to see y'all supporting each other in my absence. I should be back to LiBCM in a couple weeks. Right now we're dealing with my mother's estate. So far she doesn't appear to have a will and hadn't yet taken the time to do any end-of-life planning (and neither have I). I suspect she hadn't planned on dying at 61. That's pretty young. If you still have parents, take some time today to talk to them.
 
#178 ·
I was worried she wasn't going to make it :/. I feel your pain Mudder, and I know nothing I say will alleviate the pain you now feel. Best of wishes to you and your family. We just had to go through the same thing with my mom, nobody expected her to leave us at only 55.
 
#180 ·
My original 2001 IMA battery finally gave up the ghost in November 2021 and due to re-occurring engine faults and cutouts in the DC to DC charging of the 12v battery, I took it off the road for winter.

Yesterday I coaxed it from Morecambe to Perter Peter Perkins in Hull with the IMA disabled and doing my best to stay under 3,500 revs all of the way so that the 12v battery kept charging.

Today, Peter very efficiently fitted the new LiBCMM battery pack and everything worked perfectly again straight away. It's like having a new car! Very smooth ima battery assist power and plenty of it. The new battery is also very quick to re-charge using auto or selective re-gen.

I appreciate that this is a beta test system but it is still very impressive as it is.

Thanks to Peter Perkins, Mudder and everyone else involved in bringing this project to fruition.
 
#181 ·
I've read Mudder's FAQ on SOC differences between the LiBCM 4x20 display, OBDIIC&C, and the dashboard display. Keeping those differences in mind, does anybody know how low the SOC needs to be before the car starts to force charge the lithium battery? On my old OEM battery/BCM it usually would start to force charge when the SOC got down to about 64%. Thanks!
 
#183 ·
I'm curious if anybody is having as much trouble with garbage output on the 4x20 display, as I am? I went to the trouble, yesterday, of rerouting my display cable down and out through the air intake behind the passenger seat and then routing the cable around the passenger seat and up to the cup holders. At first, I thought it was an improvement, as I didn't have any problems this morning on my 30 minute commute. However, this afternoon on my way home, it turned to garbage output after about 10 minutes. I pulled over at an exit. It was so messed up that turning off the car didn't cause the display to turn off. I ended up having to flip the IMA switch, twice, and then two more key off/ons before it finally started working again. Then, I drove away, only to have it mess up again after about 1/4 mile. I got home and had the same problem -- getting the display to reset is very difficult again. I don't have any other problems with my LiBCM -- no buzzer warnings and no CELs, so far. But this display is practically unusable. I'm going to wrap the display cable around a clip on ferrite to see if it helps.
 
#187 · (Edited)
The temporary beta tester 4x20 I2C lcd is borderline/susceptible with the long cable.

You def need to keep it away from the motor wires and route it out of the ipu compartment as soon as practicable after it leaves the LiBCM PCB.

A bad connection on the sil 0.1" pin connector on the pcb/lcd or touchy lcd unit itself could add to the problem.

Odd erroneous cell voltage readings can occur due to interference/bugs/bad connections etc and the firmware is nowhere near finished yet. ;)

If a cell really was at 5.535V you would have found out via an alternate method by now. :eek:

Use the Arduino serial logging option to watch the cell voltages on your laptop so we can check if you have a bad connection.
 
#188 ·
@mmdepace Can you hook the USB up to a computer while grid charging and check the cell voltages using Arduino Serial Monitor? We need to see if you've actually got cells reading at 0, which could mean a connection issue inside the pack.
 
#191 ·
I'm fairly certain something is wrong either with my 4x20 display, the display cable, or the arduino. To keep the display from being lit up all night last night, I turned off my IMA switch. This morning I turned the IMA switch back on. And interestingly, the display lit up briefly and then turned off -- like it is supposed to. Then, before starting my car up, I thought to myself, "Bryan, you never zip-tied the display cable to the display, like Mudder shows in his video. So I proceeded to do that. As I was tightening the zip-tie, the display lit up on its own (key was not in the ignition) and looked like this:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Audio equipment Gadget


This is what it was doing last night, as well. I found this page that mentions: "That display means that you have not initialised the display controller correctly. So it could be hardware or it could be software." Another comment on that page states: "That is the 'Power Up' pattern shown for that LCD controller. it persists until the Initialisation is completed."

Even when the display does appear to initialize correctly, it then malfunctions in other ways. See the below video as an example of what I'm referring to:

 
#227 ·
I'm fairly certain something is wrong either with my 4x20 display, the display cable, or the arduino.
I'll send you a new cable and 4x20 display tomorrow.

I'm no cabling expert but the stock Linsight 4x20 display cable is just a regular USB 2.0 cable, in which the green and white wires are a twisted pair. It has SCL and SDA, which aren't differential signals, routed over that twisted pair, and this might not be helping things at all.
Yes, I'm using a standard USB 2.0 cable. You are correct that I'm routing SCL & SDA on a twisted pair, whereas those signals aren't actually differential signals. However, this isn't affecting anything, as the clock and data lines are terribly slow for this to matter. The aggressor signal is certainly from the high voltage power stage inside the IMA bay (i.e. not the SCL or SDA signals).

One quick fix to try if you aren't set up for crimping your own cables etc, is to modify the cable so that GND and SCL are the twisted pair instead. This isn't the greatest solution, but this display should be just a temporary thing anyway.
This would mean just de-pinning and swapping the black and white wires, on both ends of the cable, so it looks like this:
I don't recommend this, as the RED & BLK wires have a larger cross-sectional area; I believe RED & BLK are 24 gauge, whereas WHT & GRN are 28 gauge. Running ground through WHT probably doesn't make a difference, but it's certainly worse from a voltage drop perspective. I don't believe swapping leads - as you propose - will actually solve the RF issue (see above).
 
#192 ·
@joeaax1j Sounds like you have a bad connection on the 4 core/pin cable.

The display is working but locking up and not turning off/on again.

I suggest check the SIL pins/header connector at the LCD end of the cable first.
If that is OK unfortunately you will have to pull the pack to get access to those same pins at the other end of the cable on the LiBCM pcb.

Maybe make up an identical cable with header connectors and swap yours out.
 
#193 ·
Thanks, Peter. I don't have any experience with Arduinos or these displays, but I'll start some googling to see if I can find out what I'm parts I need to make these types of cables. Also, this weekend, I'll pull the pack and check for continuity between each of the individual wires in the cable.

-Bryan
 
Top