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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I discovered my OBDII C&C had some fault, I haven't looked into it, I just unplugged it, and have started to focus on the persisting issues.

I have done the following within the past couple months... (with all oem parts)
-replaced primary O2 sensor with NTK 5 wire
-replaced lower engine mount
-replaced driver side trans mount
-replaced spark plugs (all cylinders indexed B)
-replaced engine oil (oil was dark, but not low before)
-replaced transmission fluid (no chunks, but glittery)
-replaced cam tensioner gasket and filter gasket (was leaking)
-cleaned intake chambers, there was corn and nuts under the filter
-checked/adjusted cold valvelash TWICE, its perfectly within oem specs, every exhaust valve is the same, every intake valve is the same
-removed and checked EGR plate, NO buildup, and the holes are clear
-ran one full tank with fuel system cleaner, waited for engine temps to be normal for 15 minutes, then drove aggressively, and shifted at high rpms 45mpg for that tank
-Since that tank, I've been trying to get the most mpg possible, haven't broken 60mpg. I'm at 58mpg at 380miles on this current tank.
-bolted down ecu, it was previously just hanging off harness.
-checked ecu harness pins for corrosion or looseness


I frequently start and drive the car in 20 degree F weather, but it has a coolant warmer thingy, and the car only takes ~2 minutes of driving to reach 160degrees coolant temp, and by 7 minutes of driving its at 197/200 *F

I seem to have to use significant throttle to get ANY acceleration. I'm talking about having the mph go up just by 1, I have to dip the throttle below 50mpg (i stopped using the obd2 gauge, so now I judge throttle position by the mpg gauge) This is a problem, because I can't stay in lean burn and accelerate, something my previous insight could easily do.

When in lean burn, the car also gently bucks, it is not my foot. mpg at the time will be ~70-125, no CEL present. Bucking goes away if I add more throttle, and it kicks out of lean burn, or if I totally lift off the throttle.

I have a fluke multimeter, with clamp meter, if that could be used to help me diagnose a sensor, or something.

Thanks for your suggestions.
 

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Have you replaced the O2 sensor?

Scott
 

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Have you unplugged the EGR valve and taken it for a drive with it disconnected?

Scott
 

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Please try that. Even though you have cleaned the EGR passages the EGR valve could be bad.

At InsightFest this year, Recovering Gasaholic had a bucking problem, I had him go unplug and test drive, bucking went away. He found a new alternative EGR valve from a Honda Odyssey that was reasonable priced. He posted some where here on the forum about the exact year. Advanced Search is your friend.

Please report back your findings after your test drive.

Thanks,
Scott
Killer3cylinder
 

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So, I discovered my OBDII C&C had some fault, I haven't looked into it, I just unplugged it, and have started to focus on the persisting issues.
Send it back if it needs fixing. you just pay postage both ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
(light bucking update) Well, I drove about 20 miles with the EGR valve disconnected, seemed smoother, I don't think it was bucking. I'm only not 100% sure because I had to drive behind a large truck that I couldn't pass for a few miles, and I think the turbulence was slightly buffeting my car, so it felt kind of like uneven cruising speed.

I did notice that mpg rating was significantly worse while accelerating, like 50% lower. Dipped almost to zero during maybe half throttle. CEL for EGR came on at the very end of the drive, as I expected.


(poor acceleration questions)
Is there something that would make the timing swing around? or give improper engine timing without causing a CEL to show? What else could cause poor acceleration without showing a cel?

I had the exhaust off when I did the bottom engine mount, I tried to get a look at the catalytic converters, but I couldnt see them. I didn't notice any buildup in the pipes, however.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I'm now hunting for a deal on the 2001 Odyssey 3.6 v6 EGR valve (wells part number EGR 4201)

I plugged the egr valve back in, and immediately the car was back to its bucking bronco (not that severe) ways!

I discovered low clutch fluid and its leak inside the car today... priority is having a car that actually drives, so I gotta replace the master cylinder tomorrow afternoon instead of any other projects.

Then I can focus on why the eff the car can't break 60mpg. I might take a look into the "hot intake" mod.
 

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It is from a V6 Accord or the Odyssey mini van.

Scott
 

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Bucking

Have you looked at the coils? How old are they? De-laminating coils can cause misfiring and a bucking or hesitating feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Have you looked at the coils? How old are they? De-laminating coils can cause misfiring and a bucking or hesitating feeling.
I have looked at them. They looked to be in good condition, and I couldn't replicate the bucking while egr was unplugged.

Update: the primary o2 CEL is back :/ So thats 180 dollars wasted (NTK 5 wire only a few weeks old) if I can't return it.
 

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That sucks. I've been running with a flaky O2 sensor since I bought the car. Sometiems the code pops up, then it goes away for months, then it pops up again. $180 is too much for me for an intermittent code.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Check your throttle cable for slack, I’m guessing it needs to be tightened and problem solved.
Interesting suggestion. Cable is quite tight. No dead pedal, as soon as it is depressed, it registers on the tps% obd2 gauge.

Curious how a loose cable could cause bucking?

The odyssey egr came in, and I installed it... I was NOT happy when I saw the egr valve the previous owner had installed... There was barely any channel for the egr port. No freaking wonder there was lean burn hesitation and bucking. I hope this will also improve my gas mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2001 Honda Odyssey V6 (wells brand) EGR bucks even worse than the more restrictive EGR valve I replaced. I haven't driven many miles yet (50ish), but it seems the mpgs are higher.

and the P1165 code still pops up. I'm just so frustrated.

does anyone offer a tuning program, or ecu flash for the gen1?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mileage is slightly better with new EGR, still barely in the 60's (mpg). Using extremely unsafe hypermiling techniques.

Still very low on power, and the bucking continues.
 

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Check your PM's.
 
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