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Rick Suiter wrote:
<snip>
Fuse #6 under the hood was the culprite. It was barely making any connection with the fuse holder, in fact you could remove it with your bear fingers where you usually need to use the little puller to get it out. The blades of the fuse has some pretty decent arcing as well on them which would point to it slowly getting worse and worse like it did.
<end snip>
You can safely (since the box is going to be replaced) tweak the fuse blades 10 deg or so to make a better contact or hard wire in (above the fuse box connector) a fuse, bypassing the failed fuse connector. Tweaking fuses loosens the female side spade and will have consequences in the future without replacement.
But since there is a liability issue with brake lights (or the lack thereof) you'll have to insist taking the car at your own (small) risk. IMO better than being in a VW 'til December
AFAIK the parts will be FEDEX'd when available (usually sooner that the target date). Loaner cars are more expensive.
<snip>
Fuse #6 under the hood was the culprite. It was barely making any connection with the fuse holder, in fact you could remove it with your bear fingers where you usually need to use the little puller to get it out. The blades of the fuse has some pretty decent arcing as well on them which would point to it slowly getting worse and worse like it did.
<end snip>
You can safely (since the box is going to be replaced) tweak the fuse blades 10 deg or so to make a better contact or hard wire in (above the fuse box connector) a fuse, bypassing the failed fuse connector. Tweaking fuses loosens the female side spade and will have consequences in the future without replacement.
But since there is a liability issue with brake lights (or the lack thereof) you'll have to insist taking the car at your own (small) risk. IMO better than being in a VW 'til December
AFAIK the parts will be FEDEX'd when available (usually sooner that the target date). Loaner cars are more expensive.