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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is not original work, I'm simply consolidating what Ron (HBR), mdawley4, Artric, mikemo and others said and tacking on a bit from my experience doing the repair. Special thanks to kennysmith who generously sent a pair of the Digikey switches to me for free!

Tools required:
Gas Pliers wrapped in electrical tape
#2 phillips screwdriver
Medium flat screwdriver
Socket wrench with:
10mm socket
12mm socket
Socket extender

Optional Tools and materials:
Soldering iron
Solder wick or solder puller tool
Solder

Materials required:
2 units of: Digi-Key - CKN9954-ND (Manufacturer - KSA0M911LFT) Digi-Key - CKN9954-ND (Manufacturer - KSA0M911LFT)
OR
1 unit of: item 011 here: Honda button board from Majestic for $25.34

Instructions:
1) Save radio station presets.
2) Disconnect battery negative (-) terminal.
3) Remove 3 phillips screws from lower column cover.

4) Pull hard on the bottom of the lower column cover to release the clips that hold it on. There are only 3 screws, if it won't come off then pull harder.
5) Wait 15 minutes for the airbags to become safe before continuing.
6) Remove 4 12mm nuts from the steering column support and gently lower the column, avoid scratching the gray dashboard plastic which will be the only thing supporting the steering column.

7) Remove Screw cover from right edge of cluster trim using gas pliers wrapped in electrical tape.

8 ) Remove 3 phillips screws from cluster trim, 1 from far right and 2 from under the sun screen over the instrument cluster.
9 ) Pull instrument cluster trim off starting at the right and allow it to hang on it's wires.

10) Remove 4 phillips screws from instrument cluster.
11) Remove 2 (3 on CVT) cables from the back of the cluster by pressing down on their releases and pulling. This frees the cluster to be removed from the car.
12) Pry apart the 6 catches from around the semitransparent white cover and the 1 catch in the center using a flat screwdriver.
13) Remove 1 screw from button board and unclip the board. The clips will break, remove any loose pieces to avoid rattles. (see thumbnail of circuit board below)
14) Unplug the board.
15) Either solder new switches on or discard the old board. If soldering switches in, pay careful attention to the height, make sure the button top is at the same height as the original buttons, if using the Digikey switches, there will be about 1mm between the switch body and the board.

Assemble in reverse order and test. Metric/english must be held several seconds to change. The maintenance reminder is reset per this procedure: InsightCentral.net - Honda Insight Maintenance Information

The original long thread is here: http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/14643-trip-button-doesnt-work.html
 

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Nice post. I've saved the link in case I ever do get around to mine. Working the switch the way Mike suggested has kept mine operational, but it does not work nicely like a new switch would. I also still have switches I'd be happy to send out for free to US addresses if you want to PM me. My offer if for 2 free switches.

EDIT 3/14/12: All switches are gone now. No more free switches. It was fun! Thanks to all who asked for them.
 

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I've just done one of mine took about 45 mins inc repairing switch. Two more to do now :roll:

[Edit]

Done second one now :)

[Edit]

Now done all three cars must do my spare cluster as well.
 

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Thank you for posting and showing me how to do this

Thank you so much for posting this. I actually posted in the Buy / Sell section, but Highwater recommended I post here. I had the dash out, replaced the switches, goofed around a little, and finished the job all in less than 45 minutes. You helped make this easy, and it is sooooooooo nice to have the switches working again. I was going to do my daughter's Insight first, but went ahead and took care of mine. Just ordered eight more switches from Digi-Key (four for my daughter and four for a spare set).

Take care,
Tim Glover
 

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Great procedural write-up. Did mine today. What a difference:)
 

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soldering the switches

A few pics on the actual switch replacement, as it might help those who are DIY. Having done a few of these now, the process below seems to be quickest.

The items you will need. Or the stuff I use anyway. I won't go into detail on the soldering process itself, but if your wanting to learn, this is a pretty straightforward thing to learn on. Just note the gotcha's mentioned below.


Randall
 

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cutting the old switches off

I find it easiest to cut the old switches off with sharp side cutters.
There are no circuit traces on the switch side of the board, so you don't have to worry about cutting a trace.



 

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Then using a hot iron on the switch side, and needle nose pliers on the back side, touch the old switch legs one at a time and pull them out from the back side, with the needle nose. (iron was not hot for this pic)


Then touch the holes again from the switch side with a hot iron, and suck out the left over solder from the back side with a solder sucker. It looks like a hypodermic needle, available at the china tool store for about 5 bucks US.

 

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one of the gotcha's

Here's one of the gotcha's.

When ridding the board of the old switch leg stubs, be careful with the circuit traces on the back side of the board. If you cut the trace off from the rest of the circuit, you'll have to spend some time repairing it. The pic below show how the trace around the hole has lifted slightly. No problem here, just lay it back flat with a finger and make sure the new switch leg goes thru the hole, and does'nt push the trace out of the way again.

The one shown in this pic was easily fixed. Also note the clean holes for the new switches.
 

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checking your work

You should check your work before re-installing the dash.
Set your meter to "beep on contact" and check by the pic below.
Also, when checking one way, activate the other button, to make sure there are no shorts from switch to switch.

I put my meter leads on the visible side of the plug contacts, and not try to stick them into the sockets proper. You may stretch out the plug sockets if you force the probes into them.

 

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The other gotcha

The only other gotcha that I have run across, is be sure to put the new switches back on the correct side of the board. The switches go on the same side of the boards, as the wiring harness is attached to. This won't be a problem if you do one board at a time. I did it once when doing multiple boards. Picking them up and putting them down, in between steps, and you may stuff the new switches into the board, from the wrong side.:D


Hope this helps.
Randall
 

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Clips on button board

In his instructions, Chisight says that the clips on the button board will break. Are these clips that can or should be replaced? My understanding from studying the pics and instructions is that screws also hold the button boards in place, correct? So as long as there are no loose pieces to rattle, the broken clips are a non-issue?

Thanks!

Michael
 

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Hi Micheal,
The plastic clips that are mentioned are not required to hold the switch boards in. I've been into several clusters and on most of them the clips have broken.
They get brittle in there with all the heat I suppose.

There is an cheaper alternative to buying new switch boards from Honda.

Check the buy and sell section. I bumped that thread to the first page just now.

Randall
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
{is} there is a radioshack compatible part number just for the switch itself?
Jeremy
Unfortunately RS doesn't seem to have an exact match to the DigiKey CKN9954-ND but i spotted RadioShack #: 275-002 which is about the right height but is SMT instead of through hole and it's slightly smaller so the pins may not line up well. I'm sure it would be possible to make the RS part work with some extra effort but the Digikey part is probably a far easier install and only costs $0.73 more including shipping (in the US) versus picking up at RS.

If you do go the RS route, please post your results here.

The switches are actually pretty common, I pulled a set from an old bread machine for a friend and Vigo said earlier in the thread that they pulled theirs from an old car stereo.

Chisight
I do Insight battery installations in the midwest.
 

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Unfortunately RS doesn't seem to have an exact match to the DigiKey CKN9954-ND but i spotted RadioShack #: 275-002 which is about the right height but is SMT instead of through hole and it's slightly smaller so the pins may not line up well. I'm sure it would be possible to make the RS part work with some extra effort but the Digikey part is probably a far easier install and only costs $0.73 more including shipping (in the US) versus picking up at RS.

If you do go the RS route, please post your results here.

The switches are actually pretty common, I pulled a set from an old bread machine for a friend and Vigo said earlier in the thread that they pulled theirs from an old car stereo.

Chisight
I do Insight battery installations in the midwest.
thank you friend! I just ordered 4 of them from digikey figure might as well get the real deal I am excited to fix this issue that has been quite annoying! thanks !
 

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Thank you!!!

Many thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I ordered the switches from Digikey and it is so nice to have my switches working once again.

As stated, it was the easiest to just clip/smash/crunch the old switches to pieces, then unsolder the remaining leads from the back side of the circuit board. I pulled each remaining lead through the circuit board while it was in contact with the soldering iron with a pair of small needle nose pliers.

Once the leads were removed, I used braided copper to absorb the solder in the holes. No damage was done to the board and the new switches fit perfectly. I left more space between the circuit board and the switch with the Digikey switches to make sure they were raised to the appropriate height.

Works like a charm!!!

Thanks Again,

Alan
 

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Hi guy's. I am not planning on replacing any switches or anything like that. Hopefully nothing requiring soldering skills as my skills suck. I do however wish to remove the bezel in order to cover the silver areas with carbon-fiber vinyl. Do I have to unbolt the steering column in order to do so? I am aware of the three screws, and the fact that there are several clips to deal with. But look's like steering column needs to be dealt with as well.
 
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