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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
The idea is to probably to make one all encompassing board.
People don't have to use all the facilities on it though.
We might split it into two. It's up for discussion.

One with the MCM minimum install stuff.
One with the BCM Interceptor and IMAC&C P&P on.

The current hack has to go on a seperate board as that fixes on the back of the MCM pcb.
We already have a nice board for that, and the BCM also requires a single resistor mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
This is the test MCM minimal install version.

Just the VPIN opamp and dc-dc converter mod.

 

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I'm asking because I started a project to make a substitute tube that fits in the case of a six pack LTO conversion. Can you do your best to answer my question because some people who are in a different climate may want a tube. Please measure distance from floor to bottom of area that may cause obstruction. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I will look at it in the next few days when working on the car.
If i can find my old tube I will see if it fits still.
 

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John, I think you can work out your fitment question yourself with a little measuring and observing. Peter's earlier pictures show that his floor extension of the modified case passes backward at the level of the square bar., That level is lower than the stock MPI exhaust tube. Some, Natalia I believe, have made a lower profile exhaust using a flattened aluminum drier vent tube. There is room to get some air out through the exhaust fitting, but you have to make some sort or modified tubing, the stock won't fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
That's correct my pack extends and rests on the aluminium bar.
You have whatever space is available upto the top of the bar to play with.
 

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Some, Natalia I believe, have made a lower profile exhaust using a flattened aluminum drier vent tube. There is room to get some air out through the exhaust fitting, but you have to make some sort or modified tubing, the stock won't fit.
That's exactly my point; I have a friend who has started to make a CAD file for the tube which should work in the six pack LTO configuration. My thoughts are if I can get the measurement from Peter and it's similar to the six-pack configuration, possibly a 3D printed exhaust tube can be made that will satisfy the six and four-pack configurations.
 

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That's exactly my point; I have a friend who has started to make a CAD file for the tube which should work in the six pack LTO configuration. My thoughts are if I can get the measurement from Peter and it's similar to the six-pack configuration, possibly a 3D printed exhaust tube can be made that will satisfy the six and four-pack configurations.
Great idea. As far as the measurement is concerned, pretty sure it will be the same for the 2 pack modified OEM case as for the plate configuration. Both "base plates" cross the square bar just above the top of the bar. It does leave a bit of space, maybe half of the original. What you are suggesting might be a bit of a complex problem because an elbow and attachment arrangement would have to be worked out for the exhaust fitting.

I think that if one does go to the trouble, then the exhaust needs to be airtight at the exhaust fitting. Nothing to be gained by just dumping a bunch of warm air somewhere near the exhaust fitting.

I can easily make the measurement for you later in the day. As I said, pretty sure the measurement is the same for both configurations, but Peter would need to confirm that he hasn't attached anything on bottom at rear of the square bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
The height from the top of the metal bar to the floor is approx 30-35mm.
It varies as the floor is very flexible above the spare wheel well.

So you have 30-35mm clearance underneath my LTO blocks for the new fan cowling.
My block support base rests on top of the aluminium bar.

I would err on the side of smaller 30mm for a cowling 3d print.

In the photo the cowling/tube highlighted in blue would have to be 30-35mm high or less to fit under the LTO blocks.

84871


There are lots and lots of extractor fan ducting elbows and conduit ideas on google images that might be useful for someone who needs to control this airflow.
 

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Something just occurred to me regarding this design issue. If one is using a plate mounting, then the rear of the plate could possibly be raised to provide a little more room for a thicker tube. Mine already has a 3/4 inch spacer between the square bar and the bottom of my aluminum mounting plate and the spacers could be even thicker. That might be something that hot zone folks might want to do?

I have been concerned also with the parking heat soak issue in really hot locations like NM, Az and TX. One could could fabricate some sort of under car intake for those situations. Just thinking out loud. I suppose this conversion process is going to evolve for a while, but I'm really excited about the 2 pack experiments. That has promise to be within reach of folks who don't want a lot of really tight custom work.
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited by Moderator)
If you add height to the pack at the rear it probably won't allow the packs to fit under the BCM/MCM support bracket.
Yeah, I know. I was only thinking of the plate type mounting. I actually shouldn't have posted it here, because it won't work with the modified OEM case approach:oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Minimal setup with BCM Fooler.


Video shows simple BCM Fooler connections reqd for this minimal install setup. Initial road tests are positive and the car worked OK. Tweaking the detected voltage down by a few volts also helped with an increase in motor curent..

Unfortunately as my battery is only at 13C and I don't have a BCM interceptor fitted to fake the temperature I can't see the effect of full current yet as the MCM won't allow that until the battery is over 20C.

Still need to do some more work on the 48V stability as something is a bit weird with the dc-dc I am using.
Maybe just a bad actor...
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Still need to do some more work on the 48V stability as something is a bit weird with the dc-dc I am using.
Maybe just a bad actor...
This was me being an idiot and measuring in the wrong place!

The dc-dc does need some reservoir capacitance because when the BCM/MCM samples the HV it was causing odd glitches. I added 50uf and it seems stable now.
That might be a bit high and slow to charge on first switch on so will fiddle about with values.
I'll try a 4.7uf and see how that fares.

Minimal MCM mod test drive report.

Done about 25 miles today

I turned the voltage down to about 40V from 50V and that is a lot better.

Car seems to assist and regen more naturally with extra current as expected from the lower voltage.

I saw 60 amps assist and 46 amps regen with the battery at 16C and around 115V

I noticed the pack voltage drop under 50A loads is about 4V at 16C

I think we will need to aim for a range of 100-120V actual pack V.
+45V on top of that gives 145-165V

When we find the voltage sweet spot we might find the stock BCM keeps the pack in it's natural mid soc voltage window. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Driving to do shopping today with the minimal MCM install.
No issues to report. Still tweaking and fiddling.

LTO 48 Cell Case V2 Build.

 

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Yeah, I know. I was only thinking of the plate type mounting. I actually shouldn't have posted it here, because it won't work with the modified OEM case approach:oops:
Wow, fat fingered that and screwed it up, but not essential to thread so damage limited.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
We are officially in CV19 lockdown now in the UK as of ten minutes ago.
I can't reasonably do any significant road testing for a while now, sorry about that.
Obviously bench testing and short runs for essential supplies (food) will continue intermittently.

General development and software work will continue apace..
 
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