[Hoosierdaddy]

I replaced my driver's side lower control arm today, and I've apparently stripped the threads of the main flange bolt (the longer bolt, in the center). I've read about a lot of options for fixing this, but there seems to be conflicting solutions.

I understand that the aluminum body is not threaded, but there is a steel bolt secured beneath the aluminum floorboard. Once I know the location, can't I simply cut through the aluminum floorboard and replace the nut? Perhaps I'm over-simplifying things, but I don't believe this is too difficult of a task.

Has anyone done this before, and if so, can you perhaps post a pic of where I should cut through the floor board? My car has 185k miles on it, and runs like a champ so I would really like to get it up and running ASAP!

From what I've read, tapping or helicoils are a No-No for fixing this problem, but I want to ask the experts out there for advice!

I've disconnected my IMA last year, but I'm still getting 55+MPG!!

Thanks,

H.D.

 

[eq1]

Someone around here had the same problem perhaps within the last 6 months or so, and posted info about it, what was done, etc...

Here's one thread - it's not the one I was thinking about, but probably will help:
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...d-front-control-arm-lca-nut-inside-frame.html

 

[jeff652]

yeah I did this on the pass side once. There is one layer of aluminum over the steel nut which floats in a bracket. The hardest part is finding where to cut into the vehicle floor. Would be right around/under the clutch pedal I suspect. You are going to need to remove the carpet and black rubber isolator from that area. It's a PITA to do, but can be done.

 

[retepsnikrep]

Insert a nail/punch or slim drill through the stripped nut and tap it with a hammer to make a dent on the inside floor which should show you where it is.

 

[musmanjam]

I really thought this was me this weekend. I pulled all of the bolts to grease up the squeaky rubber with silicone paste. I had the hardest time getting that center bolt to tighten up. Kept thinking I stripped it. I would start tightening and it would thread, but then lost resistance and spun.

After a few tries, I started wondering if the nut was spinning while I was tightening. Used a small pry bar to pull the bolt downward while tightening and voila...snugged back up.

Sounds like I was lucky though and it could easily have been a stripped thread issue...

 

[Hoosierdaddy]

The reason I was replacing it is because the thing broke in half!!! See link below....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1uK3HqqQ57GNGctWk5BVFAwTEh1aFU5TTFlcGFZcnFjQWkw/edit?usp=sharing

Has anyone ever had one break in half? Thanks for the link!! Also, I like the idea of using a punch to place a hole near the location! This forum rocks!!!

I just ordered 2 new bolts from Honda. There is a chance that only the bolt stripped and the steel nut is ok. I will try to re-thread the new bolt without the control arm in place, to see if I can get the threads started.

I'll keep everyone posted!

H.D.

 

[musmanjam]

Wow, never saw that before!

 

[Hoosierdaddy]

Yeah, I'm close to 290 lbs, so I wonder if the excess weight on the driver's side had something to do with it?

I ordered 2 new bolts from Honda today ($14), so I'm going to try to gently drive one of the the new bolts with my ratchet (with the control arm removed) to see if the nut is stripped as well. Hopefully, the new bolt will work, so I don't have to use a hole saw or steel snips.

 

[Hoosierdaddy]

Update:

Great news! The nut wasn't stripped after all. I ordered a new center bolt from Honda ($7) and the bolt worked. I did learn a good lesson when installing control arms....you must load the suspension with a jack before tightening. This allowed the bolt hole to align perfectly! I was dreading having to possibly cut a hole in my floor board!

Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions / info!