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I would believe the reversed fan would work well as long as the vent tube on the back side that goes out of the car was removed. That and as long as there is no positive pressure in the area above the gas tank while moving.

Also would be great to run the mdm fan in reverse configuration with a solar panel while parked. Would be able to move a descent amount of air out of the car. Would work wwll with window cracked or if the outside duct of ac stays open when you turn off ignition. At that point ac blower and mdm blower hooked to solar panel would move air from outside in then back out of the car.

Just a thought.
 

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The MDM fan is a powerful 12V brushed motor that probably won't like running for hours at a time. It only operates very intermittently in normal use.

It needs fairly hefty current to even get it started, running at reasonable speed it will probably consume several amps. It will have to be a big solar panel.

A brushless 12v computer/battery fan is much better for long periods of use and has much more modest power requirements.
 

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Possibly, venting cabin air through the assembly and out of the vehicle through the former intake would be more effective, and create needed space for the LTO packs.

Edit: More effective here in AZ during 100+ weather.
 

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mmdepace:

That is my reversed blower setup, but I don't have any new data to share yet.

Uhtrinity reported success with his reversed blower:

https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-issues/20450-ford-escape-battery-project-7.html

In my case, life got in the way, had to get a house repaired, updated, and sold among other things, but the good news is I've finally started working on my parallel battery conversion again. The bad news... I poke along at my own pace, especially since the original batteries in my daily driver are still working okay. YAY!!
 

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Thanks davismltc. What a great thread that was. I appreciate you pointing me in that direction.

I'm going to relocate the fan when it cools down here in AZ, but won't get any sense of its effectiveness until next summer. My semi-educated/semi-informed guess is that it's going to be a necessary condition to the Lithium conversion down here in AZ.

Wish I would've tried it out this summer. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #706
I got a p1440 error last night in my carr and the check engine light and IMA light went on. The car was back to normal after turning it on and off. I still had to reset the check engine light.

This p1440 error came on only about 10 minutes into my drive, it can't be due to any heat issues.

I'm not going to bother with these errors until they stay consistent on.

The last error I got a month ago was a p1586 error. I had no errors since.
 

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I've never been able to understand the P1440 very well, but refer to this link:


Peter has talked about a rash of failures of the IGBT module within the MDI. In fact, he has been collecting IGBT modules as I recall.

Like you, I'd probably just wait it out and hope for the best. The advanced diagnostic seems to imply some counting of out-of-range peaks, so it may come back after a while.
 

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I'm going to relocate the fan when it cools down here in AZ, but won't get any sense of its effectiveness until next summer. My semi-educated/semi-informed guess is that it's going to be a necessary condition to the Lithium conversion down here in AZ.
Though, I'm not at the heat risk you are, I have been trying to think through the parked cooling issue also. I briefly considered converting the MCI exhaust opening in the right rear of the IPU, but it is directly in front of the muffler and I am concerned about exhaust fumes entering the car. Think I'll pass on that.

Doing something with MCI cooling intake still looks like the most attractive option. With all the LTO conversions, I think everyone has eliminated the closed exhaust system and blocked the floor opening. If that intake were a carbon monoxide risk someone would have notice by now, so options there look best.
 

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Discussion Starter #709
Using the heat shield in all the windows has kept my temps at a 100 deg maximum for most of the summer here in NYC. I'm happy with that.

I believe it got up to 130 degrees last summer without the heat shields. The issue is I have to put all of them in the windows. I only need to use this for maybe a few months here in NYC and the rest of the year the sun isn't strong enough to heat the battery compartment.
 

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The issue is I have to put all of them in the windows.
This is a bit of a PITA. I have the windshield and the hatch covers. Though both pieces are of high construction quality, they are hard to manipulate. The hatch piece is particularly difficult since is large enough to fit in behind the rollover glass edges and has suction cups. I've not had a lot of success with suction cups as they age.

But, I still pity those who install window film thinking it will keep their car cool. Window "Heatshield" is a much more effective method.
 

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Discussion Starter #711
I don't really rely on the suction cups except for the two small side windows, I just stuff the hatch heat shield inside the groove around the edges of the window. Even without suction cups it will hold. Heatshield made the shields on the larger side so they kind of get wedged into the window frames and hold nicely.

If you did rely on the suction cups they will usually fail.

The side windows I just stuff inside and they hold.

Takes me less than a minute to install all shades. Yes it is a pain even with this short time, but the only other choice I had was to run the large heat sink fan constantly during the day. This did deplete my battery slowly and also like someone said, if that is a brushed motor it probably won't last that long.

If you are constantly using your car then it will be more of a pain, lucky for me I really don't use my car more than once a day, so it sits most of the time, I go a few days a week without using the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #712
Is this a crazy coincidence? This morning I was driving and my check engine light came on. Oddly enough my IMA light didn't come on.

I got a P0420 error. Kind of got two errors that my scanner show a P0420 and a P0420 P. Not sure why a second one with a P shows up but could just be my scanner.

I reset the codes and everything seems fine.

Is this just a major coincidence or related to my other IMA errors?
 

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Yes exactly, so its just a major coincidence I get the IMA error one day and the next time I drive my car I get a CAT efficiency error? I usually find coincidences like this related somehow.

I guess you think this is just a major coincidence? It could be.
 

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I think you mean current rating rather than safety factor.
It's not ideal but will probably be ok. I would consider using it in my car..
I've just bought 5 x 125A l50S fuses as they were very cheap on flea bay. $10 each.
 

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Just picked up 7 feet of BMW battery cable for $4.80. since the 12V battery for all the BMWs I've seen is in the back of the car and is used to start the car I figured the guage was at least 4AWG. Incredible deal.
 
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