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That cable is probably ok. Usually recommended is superflex cable, but there won't actually be much flexing of the LTO main cables - not like the engine ground straps. That cable probably has higher gauge and fewer strands than the superflex. You will need to determine which crimp terminal to use - likely 4AWG but that is a guess. Just strip back a bit of insulation and measure the conductor diameter with a caliper or micrometer. You should find charts on the internet relating diameter to gauge.

I think you will have to be careful to make 7' work. build the cables one at a time to their termination points so as not to waste any cable.

Later: The pack layout that I used resulted in the minimum total cable lengths that I was able to find. I think you have pictures of that, and if not, it is in my build thread.

You would probably be best served to start your own build thread. Stuff gets lost and doesn't "search" well when you include it in the threads of others. JMO.
 

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Questions for Peter about building his boards to convert to LTO:
I was wondering if you had a specific reason you use Fixed Terminal Blocks instead of crimp pins and connectors on boards, specifically the Interceptor. I plan on using at least two connectors on that board unless there is a good reason not to.

With regard to connections, I thought I saw a picture that used a connector on the Fooler board. What is the pitch / pin width of th 12 MCM connections.

The BCM fooler board – according to the schematic, White to MCM (battery negative, J14 on your board) and Red to MCM (battery positive J13 on your board) are connected to MCM connector E, same color wires, pins 4 and 8; the other connector points on the Fooler board are connected to the BCM (connector C). The MCM Red and White points are same electrical point as J1 (white) and J12 (Red) on your board. These points appear to be redundant; do these + and – connections need to be connected? Can just the 12 wires be connected?
 

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Terminals was easier for me on the BCM Interceptor as I am always fiddling around with them.

The BCM fooler voltage tap connections are designed for wires. So pitch was not relevant to me.

Re Fooler connections have a look at the bottom of the board.
If you don't use J13 for the battery + input then the safety led won't work.
It shows when the board is energised with HV and is a useful safety feature.

J14 is a duplicate of J1, but gives a standard layout
with the HV battery input connected to the left side of the board, and the BCM output to the right.
 

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I'm looking for the battery pack temperature sensors in the wiring diagram. I believe there are four. I assume these temp sensors are connected to the MCM? Maybe the BCM? Can someone please tell me to which connector and what is the wire designation of the said connector for these sensors. Thanks
 

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They connect to the BCM, connector B. I'm looking at a page from the electrical troubleshooting pdf. The connections are called "TBATT":
connector space 8, WHT, TBATT3
9, YEL, TBATT1
19, BLU, TBATT4
20, GRN, TBATT2
12, BLK, TBATT SG

Is that what you need? You can look for yourself in the pdf shop manual, the folder "electric troubleshooting manual," click the 'index' pdf, the 'ima system' entry, and then down in the left corner there's a link to the BCM. There's probably other docs that show similar things.
 

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Like eq1 said, they are in colored plastic sheaths with two wires eache in the sheath.. They have different lengths so you can plug the plug in, but wait until you see how the batterys ar going to be positioned before you decide which sensor goes to which subpack. Use the hole already in the cover, since you can't tape them into place with the cover installed.

I "think" you need to use a little bit of heatshirk material to insulate the tips from the cell tops.

You will have to load the version of the Interceptor S/W which is configured for temp sensors.
 

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You will have to load the version of the Interceptor S/W which is configured for temp sensors.
The BCM Interceptor has nothing to do with the physical Temp Sensors. (It doesn't connect to them)
It does/can however fake the temperature reading sent from the BCM to the MCM to a minimum of 25/30C for maximum IMA power if reqd.
 

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The BCM Interceptor has nothing to do with the physical Temp Sensors. (It doesn't connect to them)
It does/can however fake the temperature reading sent from the BCM to the MCM to a minimum of 25/30C for maximum IMA power if reqd.
OK, but I don't understand how that works with regard to reading temperature on the OBDII C&C. The temperature probes hook to the BCM, so seems that the data to the OBDII would be unmolested. I guess the question is, "Will the OBDII C&C display the battery temperature or the faked temperature?"

Just checked car. Displayed battery temperature is 27C(86F). Temperature, early in day after a cool night, should be roughly 60-64F. Apparently it is displaying the faked temperature and the temperature data is therefore unresponsive.
 

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The BCM reads the battery temps sensors.
It sends the high/low temperature data to the MCM.
The BCM interceptor intercepts that message and if activated sends a fake temperature if desired.
The actual temp is sent through if it is higher than the selected faked temperature.

The OBDIIC&C displays whatever the BCM interceptor is sending through to the MCM.
 

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Since I don't have my BCM Interceptor connected yet, are instructions clear and obvious as to setting it so the OBD2 reads actual temp and not a faked temp?
 

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You need to read and digest the BCM Interceptor thread..
The functionality you get really depends on the software loaded into the BCM Interceptor.
 

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Discussion Starter #732 (Edited)
No issues to report with my LTO conversion since I last posted. I have been using my car a lot this year with my new job for commuting and I have been charging it like once a week.

I'm really happy with the IMA Boost device made by retepsnikrep .


Almost all of my trips have been short here in NYC since I installed my LTO battery and I have my current hack and IMA Boost turned up for maximum power so I go through about 75% of my battery in about 100 miles. I also have coast regen turned off with the Boost Device, and thankfully so as Coast regen is horrible thing to have. If I want coast regen I just hit the brakes a little and manually control when I need it.

What kind of stinks with my car set to maximum battery power, is if I go on longer highway trips, the highway will deplete my battery very quickly in as much as 100 miles. What happens is that once I hit hills and try to hold speed, my IMA Boost and current hack really kick on the amps and it really drains the battery quickly in 5th gear. I could be pushing over 100 amps easily when assist comes on in my car with the current hack and IMA Boost device.

Yes I know what some of you are thinking, Just drop gear and try not to assist. This just drives me crazy as its annoying and I still deplete my battery. I also will lose speed as I can't floor my car because the Assist will kick on. Its just not something you can really deal with easily.

I was thinking about what I could do today on a 180 mile round trip when I had my battery down to the last 20% of battery power and still had many more miles to go. One of the options was switching off my IMA battery completely , Not really something I wanted to do, but would prevent me from over discharging my pack.

Then I realized I have the IMA boost device sitting right next to me. This allows me to control the Regen and Assist levels. This works perfectly for my situation here because this allows me to pretty much set the Assist exactly how much I want and it keeps the IMA battery on, Regen ON, and Auto / Start ON. Basically I have full control of the Assist and Regen, and both independent of each other. I can easily turn off just Assist but keep Regen On. I can also control the levels of each, it is not just an On / Off control.

If I set my IMA Boost device to the lowest Assist setting, I get very little Assist to where it doesn't deplete my battery at all and my battery will actually start charging and increasing in voltage quickly when using Regen.

I can also easily adjust the Assist level for how long my trips are, if I'm going on a 200 mile Trip vs 400 mile, I can allow myself more Assist with the shorter trips. I can also turn up assist in seconds to max power if I'm pulling out of a rest area, and then turn it off in seconds once I get to cruising high way speeds.

What is also nice is that when setting the Assist level, you use more amps in lower gears where you need it, and less assist in higher gears where you don't need it as much. I notice this by looking at the voltage drop, it drops much more in lower gears for some reason then in higher gears.

The IMA Boost is really nice thing to have and it gives me loads more power also. Yes I also know that most of you have a joystick and control all this manually anyway. Although I don't believe the joystick allows you to get more Assist power like the IMA Boost device does.
But manually controlling with a joystick is something I don't want to be bothered with, so this gives me enough manual control to get the most out of my LTO pack, gets rid of the coast regen, and gives me a noticeable amout of more power.
 

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Discussion Starter #735
Finally got around to checking my individual cell voltages after almost 2 years.

I checked 48 of my 84 individual cells or 4 12 cell packs. Didn't feel like even opening the other 36 cells.

Checking the 48 cells, all cells were within .003 of each other, mostly 95% were within .002 of each other. The difference is because I charged and discharged a few cells and didn't balance them properly. This means 95% of my cell voltages were 2.166 and 2.167 volts, with the odd 2.165 volts.

My 7 12 cell pack voltages were all within .01 of each other, or 26.01 and 26.00 volts.

This basically means that after 2 years of not balancing, the cells are in perfect balance as I installed them balanced within .003 of each other. This is actually really surprising how well these cells have stayed balanced, I never would have thought they would stay in perfect balance after two years.

In this picture you can see that I never replaced any of my zip ties, the packs are still tight with no movement after 2 years.


I actually never got around to fixing any of this mess since I installed it over 2 years ago. Its pretty much in the temporary state I left it, but it has not caused me any issues really. I leave the charger above the spare tire and just pull the cord out to charge.





 

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Discussion Starter #737
If you are talking about the aluminum cover, nope, never installed that. I just place the gray hatch mat right on top of everything, that is the gray mat with the little door to the spare tire.

This isn't the best idea because of heat issues in the summer, I have to actually lift it over to ventilate the battery compartment in those 100 degree days in the summer if I take long drives.

What gets really hot is the BCM and MCM in the summer heat, those things will get burning to the touch if not ventilated properly and especially with the gray hatch mat or carpet laying on top of it. The batteries don't get hot, but the BCM and MCM do.

I really need to get a fan in there and install the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #738
retepsnikrep, thinking about it. I should probably secure the MCM and BCM, put a couple of 12 volt fans running over them.

Then put the aluminum cover over everything at this point. There is really no reason to keep it open anymore considering I don't have any issues or need to check the cells anymore. Would take me less than an hour to do everything.

This would also allow me to not worry about the MCM and BCM overheating in the summer because of being sandwiched between the carpet and foam I have under them.
 

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It's incredible the cells kept such close uniformity. You mentioned that you balanced the pack two years ago.... what process / procedure did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #740
Yes it is quite amazing these cells stayed in basically perfect balance. This is because they were made in japan I believe with very good quality control. Plus they are in a very good case and protected.

I actually never balanced them, they came shipped to me all within .003 volts. I actually cycled a few cells when I was testing them.
 
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