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Got retepsnikrep LTO Interrigator in last nights mail. Used it today to find CANbus ID on my 16 CANBus BMS boards. Really neat piece of equipment. Did all 16, complete with making tags, in about 30 minutes.

Now on to a little extra experimenting. I want to test how close my PL8 charger correlates with the Honda BMS voltage measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter #802
Didn't even realize they got the BMS boards actually working and readable. I'm going to have to get this. Good thing I didn't spend big bucks on an aftermarket BMS. I'm sure the BMS will be quite accurate because honda seems to use very good electronics in all its cars.
 

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Good thing I didn't spend big bucks on an aftermarket BMS. I'm sure the BMS will be quite accurate because honda seems to use very good electronics in all its cars.
We aren't there yet. So far it is only possible to read the cell voltages. It has not been determined yet how to use the boards to actually balance the cells :(
 

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Discussion Starter #804
View attachment 84539

I'm sorry but that's really crispy and probably dangerous. If you have to have it on the front put it here with one of these marine power receptacles with the lid. This is on my car, it's not for the IMA, this is for oil pan and transmission heat pads and a block heater. They really do help with MPG.

Don't use the switch I have in this photo, use a waterproof one, which I bought to replace the one in this picture after this photo was taken. Honestly you probably don't even need a switch.

I will mention that you'd think this area gets wet, but over the last year and a half I've never seen it wet.
While I agree it does seem dangerous I do not think it is so. The reason is that no electricity will be live in that connector at the front of my car unless it is plugged into from my house. The flap will keep almost everything out of the plug. Even if some water got inside, or even salt water which would be far worse, it could potentially cause a short but that is highly unlikely and would just blow the fuse block in my house.

Worse case that could happen is I burn out the connector and if that happens then I will replace it with something better. I do not think it could ever cause a shock hazard.

That being all said, putting the charge port at the front of my car was the best thing I could have done. It is so easy to charge my car now. It takes me 5 seconds to take the computer extension cord, which I leave plugged into my house all the time, and quickly just plug it into that connector at the front of my car. The only thing that would be easier is if I had my car wireless charged from the concrete below my car as I parked.

It is so convenient that I charge my car all the time now. What I do is keep my max charge voltage lower, so I charge my LTO cells to 3.38 volts, and I usually charge when I'm around 2.18 volts. This keeps me using my pack around 65-35% of capacity which is the best voltage range for cell longevity. With regular lithium cells you increase cycle life from 500 to like 2000 cycles by charging between a 40-60% range. I don't know how much this matters when these cells are rated at a 20,000 cycle life.

The reason I need to charge often is I'm using the current hack + the IMA Boost device which allows me more assist. This really drains the battery but gives me much more power from the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #805
We aren't there yet. So far it is only possible to read the cell voltages. It has not been determined yet how to use the boards to actually balance the cells :(
Not a big deal to me because I've used my car for around 2 years now and not a single cell needed to be balanced. If you need to balance any of your cells then you have cell issues and will probably need to bypass or replace that bad cell. It seems that once a cell starts to go bad, it really goes bad quickly after that. usually it will have a bad smell if you smell it closely.

It is more important to read the the cell voltages and to know when a cell starts to go bad. If the OBDIIC&C automatically shuts down the pack if your highest and lowest cell divert too much that would be perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #806
Just wanted to give an update about the IMA error codes I was constantly getting while using my car. I decided to poke around all my connections, pulling and pushing all the wires when my car was on to see if I can throw an IMA error. It did not happen. I saw no issues with any of my connections by doing a pull test on many of the wires. Usually a bad connection will have the wire pull out of the solder if you have a bad connection.

Then I decided to disconnect my Current Hack as that has the most connections. I drove the car for a few days without any issues. The car felt so weak and was not nearly as fun to drive without the current hack so I decided to reinstall the current hack.

I have now driven for a few days with the current hack installed and have not had any issues. I have drove over many hard bumps in the road and everything seems normal. Before I was getting IMA errors a few times per ride, usually when I drove over any bump in the street.

I have no idea what the issue is because everything is back normal. It is most likely a connection issue and I must have moved something in a way for it to stop. Since everything is working fine now there is nothing I can do but just wait and see if I have trouble again.
 

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Not a big deal to me because I've used my car for around 2 years now and not a single cell needed to be balanced.
What is the best to worst voltage spread after 2 years of cycling? That would be useful information to rest of us.
 

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Discussion Starter #808
All my cells seemed to not have had any drift. At least not more than .001 volts in a cell. This cells are quite amazing in how well they stay balanced. The reason for this is that they are protected very well in a hard shell case.

I had lipo pouch cells in my electric bike which I didn't take much care to secure them proprely. So many of them were out of balance. Many of them got puffed up. The reason was they got damaged because the pouch cells were not protected and pouch cells are easily damaged. I had 18650 cells in a new electric bike build and they stayed perfectly balanced without any balancing for over a year.

The big issue will be that odd cell that seems to have issues and most likely it was a defect in manufacturing and it had issues from the very beginning and just slowly got worse.

I would think after 2 years of cycling your cells should be all perfectly balanced and there should be no deviation other than your voltage tester rounding up or down.
 
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