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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I have recently experienced some issues with putting my 2000 Insight into gear (197k miles). Yesterday I was unable to put it into first gear at all and when I tried, the car kind of dipper a little in the front.

I think it may be an issue with the Master-Slave cylinders, but also thought it might be the clutch, or possibly both. Is there anyone who has had this issue before?

Any thoughts on if this is just a M-S issue or a clutch issue too?

Thank you!
Alex
 

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Sounds hydraulic. Are you losing any fluid? Does it help to pump it?

If it's the slave it'll leak at the slave cyl on the bell housing. If it's the master it'll run down the firewall inside the car.

Sam
 

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Many people experience this issue. Usually the master cylinder is visibly leaking into the driver-side carpet underneath the dashboard (bring a flashlight). If you replace the master, might as well replace the slave, too. Also, BUY THE CORRECT wrench, as noted in the repair guides here on IC... I skimped, used an open-ended wrench, stripped the line, and then spent four hours replacing the line, which is a royal pain due to routing around power steering mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rounded Nut

Thank you all again. The replacement of the master was a piece of cake!! Unfortunately, the slave hardline was neigh impossible to get to and when I did finally manage a wrench on it, it just rounded off. 15 years of rust I guess.

My next plan is to find a pair of vice grips and soak it in PB Blaster for an hour (tried for 15 minutes). Failing that, I suspect I will have to replace the line. I'm sure there's a thread on here for the process as well.

While I'm at it, I may as well replace the break and gas lines since those didn't look so hot while I was working today.

Thank you all again for the time and help. Any other advice, is very welcome.

TK
 

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Yep probably rust, you should always use a line wrench when doing any kind of tubing connections, puts 5 flats of the wrench on the nut vs only 2 flats. Sorry to hear it rounded off that sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I'm thinking of cutting the tubes right in from of the hard line and using a splicer to fix them (a suggestion from a friend who knows much more about cars than i do). Are those antifreeze lines? Is it worth trying to pull them off? (I tried and they didn't budge).

Once those tubes are cut or off, I was going to try my hand with irwin 10wr vise grips. If that doesn't do it, then I'm cutting the line and replacing it with a stainless steel braided line, by passing the existing architecture all together.

Any thing i may be missing there please? Also are those two houses in front of the slave just antifreeze lines?

Thanks again!
 

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Slave cylinder connection

I installed a master cylinder, a slave cylinder, the hardline from the master to the hose, and the hardline from the slave to the hose.

I recommend a service manual from Helminc.com. Downloadable manuals are found on this site and may be enough.

I removed the air cleaner as recommended. I removed a cover for the throttle body as recommended.

I removed the slave cylinder and hardline together. I used a line wrench to disconnect the hardline at the hose. I broke a hardline plastic clip, and I had another one available.

Line wrenches are also known as flare nut wrenches. In addition to a 10 mm. line wrench, I had a 10 mm. flare nut crowfoot wrench. The crowfoot wrench is a stubby piece of metal that has a flare nut opening and a square 3/8" opening that you can attach a socket wrench to.

I did not use a wrench with the crowfoot. I mostly tightened the line to the slave cylinder using my crowfoot only.

I could use a short 8 mm. box end wrench for the bleeder screw. I will get one.

There are two lines in your way to the slave cylinder connection. One is a vacuum line. One is a line from the evap solenoid. You can remove one or both. I do not think that there is an antifreeze line to worry about. I did not remove the lines.

For replacing the hardline from the master to the hose -- it is necessary to move the brake line. I disconnected the brake line near the center at the firewall. I removed the brake line from the 2 clips which are shared with the clutch line.

I replaced both of the shared clips. One of the removed clips showed some melting. I will attach pictures later.
 

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More on the slave cylinder

Installing the slave cylinder:

I would install the slave cylinder without the line attached. The manual says to lubricate the tip of the slave cylinder with super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002). This is where the slave cylinder contacts the shift fork.

Make sure that the tip of the slave cylinder sits in the cup of the shift fork. You can feel this through the boot (of the shift fork).

It says to lubricate inside the boot of the slave cylinder with brake assembly lube. I used Dow Corning molykote 44 Medium Grease inside of the boot of the slave cylinder.

You may need to leave the bolts of the slave cylinder a little loose before attaching the hard line. It should be much easier working with a new line to get both connected.

Installing the master cylinder hard line:

Disconnecting and reconnecting a new hard line from the master cylinder to the hose was done with much patience and about 10 degrees at a time. I used flare nut only to avoid rounding the line.

Two plastic clips hold both the hard line and the drivers side front brake line. One of the clips seemed melted. Pictures of the "melted" clip and a new one are attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for the help. I now have a new master,slave, and hard line in! One last own though-the clutch catch point is WAY too high up in the pedal-completely different from how i drove the car for 7 years. Is there a way too assist the pedal or clutch catch point?
 

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From online manual

Fig. 3: Adjusting Clutch Pedal And Clutch Interlock Switch With
Specified Torques
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
2. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to
get the specified height (F), stroke (G), and free play (H).
2006 Honda Insight
2000-06 TRANSMISSION Clutch - Insight
Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130-140 mm (5.1-5.5 in.) Clutch Pedal Free
Play: 10-18 mm (0.39-0.71 in.)
Clutch Pedal Height: 192 mm (7.56 in.)

Look for this in one of the manuals. This comes before removal/installation of the clutch master cylinder.

You can also see some of this done on youtube. Ericthecarguy was a Honda/Acura mechanic for some years. He is shown installing a clutch master cylinder on a Civic. He adjusted the clutch pushrod locknut.
 
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