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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For sale is a Meanwell PSP-1000-15 PSU (adjustable voltage from 12v to 15v) with a three phase bridge 35A rectifier wired in especially for a 2000-2006 Honda Insight. Datasheet is here. https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/psp-1000-spec-1179932.pdf

It is pretty much a drop in replacement if you want to ditch the factory DC to DC converter and the MDM. There are only 5 wires to connect.
Instruction is here. https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/1339274-post116.html

You'll need to drill holes to mount it and I would commend install aftermarket heatsink or use the factory heatsink with this. With car running with no radiator fan on, it start charging about 1300rpm, with radiator fan on, it start charging about 1900rpm.

I would recommend this if you drive your Insight without IMA battery and need to access 4000RPM and above for extended period of time like in CO or OR.

I would not recommend this if you use your car for delivery, idle for a long time and live in HOT climate as Arizona like I do.


Asking $70 + shipping.

SOLD!




 

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This is usually used by people doing complete IMA deletes. Has someone figured out how to just replace the DC/DC with this thing to save weight but keep the rest of the IMA without a CEL? Or are there maybe other technical hurdles that would prevent that or would need to be overcome?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Has someone figured out how to just replace the DC/DC with this thing to save weight
You're talking a few lbs difference here, the PSP-1000-15 is over 10 lbs, DC/DC by itself without the heatsink and MCM might even be lighter. Not worth it.
 

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Ouch, that hit close to home. I deliver, idle for long periods of time and live in a hot climate Texas.

I recently ordered parts for this mod. In fact I'm waiting on the last part to arrive today. I was just rereading the thread before I get started when I saw this post.

. I didn't like it as the Meanwell power supply doesn't do well in 120F weather
Can you elaborate more on how this PSU behaved in the heat?
 

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Thanks for the information. I'm really glad I asked. I like the idea of an idle control system. How steady does it keep the RPMs, especially when the AC compressor cycles? Is there Build documentation for it online anywhere?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the information. I'm really glad I asked. I like the idea of an idle control system. How steady does it keep the RPMs, especially when the AC compressor cycles? Is there Build documentation for it online anywhere?
No build document as it was just my testing. To be honest, I don't recommend adding a "vacuum leak" as the car's ECU will try to compensate with its own idle and shoot rpm to 1.5k to 2k then send off check engine light if you idle long enough.

You'll be better off adjusting the idle screw in the summer months to about 11.3% TPS - 12% TPS opening to see which works better for you. Remember, there are two fans, one for a/c condenser and one for radiator. The a/c fan is constantly on while the radiator fan is on/off while you idle The radiator fan is where you'll see the variation of voltage from.
 

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Okay I'm trying to figure out what is going on in that picture. It looks like you took an IAC valve off of another vehicle and fabricated a plate to fit with hose barbs. I can see one hose coming out of the airbox. Is the other going to the downstream side of the throttle body? What are you using to actuate the valve?

I tried adjusting the idle valve screw but I don't like how much it overcompensates when the AC shuts off.

I thought the radiator fan cycled on and off based on temperature. And the condenser fan comes on when the compressor is running.

Also, I think a small part of the voltage variation is also the AC clutch. I don't know how much it draws but I'm sure it's a few amps or more.
 
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