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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought we better have a dedicated thread for this gizmo. Any questions about it on here please.

To sumarise.

The BCM interceptor intercepts and modifies serial data signals being sent from the BCM to the MCM
on the RS485 BATTSCI line in a G1 Insight.

It's primary function is to eliminate the OEM Gauge/BCM Soc charge issues when using larger battery packs.
It does this by faking 19 bars SOC allowing full vehicle function for an unlimited duration.

It can also be controlled by an external device and can manage over/under voltage and over temperature situations
preventing the car (MCM) from charging or discharging the battery when this would result in damage or danger.

The code is open source and can be modified to provide even more control/functions as users require.


I have been doing some more testing on my recently arrived pcb and have fined tuned one resistor value and made a small change to the interceptor code. Resistors R1 to R5 are now all 1k.

Please use the code/pics/schematic from this post/thread when building the device.

Below some text copied from my earlier post.

The Mini BCM Interceptor can be used by people who don't want the full combined pcb and who have there own BMS/FOOLER/CHARGER CONTROLLER ETC

The blank pcb is about 50x50mm and costs $49 inc P&P Paypal to my usual sig address.

I think it's pretty self explanatory and is controlled by simple logic high low on the J3 Inputs.
It also has a serial data input so could receive commands from another device.

Logic High on the Over V input = Regen disabled and SOC set to 20 bars.
Logic High on the Under V input = Assist disabled and SOC set to 0 bars. (Ima start is disabled) (Forced charge activates)
Logic High on both inputs = (Over temperature) Assist and Regen disabled and SOC set to 4 bars.

Normally both should be pulled low to Gnd by an external circuit or jumper wire as shown in my picture.
Both inputs pulled low results in 19bars Soc and full Assist/Regen functionality.
That's how I use it in both my Lithium cars as currently my BMS does not interact with the BCM Interceptor.

Note. It does interact with the Lifebatt BMS in the Insight Rally car, which had a logic output for Over/Under V or T
and simply activated the Interceptor protection when the BMS signalled a problem.

Components all through hole. Same/similar to ones on OBDIIC&C and BCMGauge parts list etc.
I'll knock up a google parts list spreadsheet shortly.

Wiring.

The 5v power for the Interceptor is sourced from the MCM by splicing into

MCM Connector C Pin 24 Grn/Wht (+5V)
MCM Connector B Pin 25 Red/Yel (Ground)

The BCM Connector A is best used to locate the orange and white BATTSCI wires reqd.

BCM Connector A Pin 7 (White) BATTSCI
BCM Connector A Pin 20 (Orange) BATTSCI

You will need to cut and extend the ends of the wires so they can reach the pcb.
Do not mount the pcb near the high current/voltage orange power cables.
I suggest mount it where I did on top of the MCM or BCM in the gap in the foam packing.

You could install it inside the MCM or BCM by cutting/modifying the appropriate pcb pin connections.

The wires comming from the BCM goto J4
The wires going to the MCM goto J5

Nice and easy 6 wires in all for a basic install.


 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The Mini BCM Interceptor code is available in two versions.

1) Battery Temp (Faked) fixed at 25C (I use this for best IMA performance)

2) Battery Temp (Real) as passed from BCM sensors.

Take your pic. Both compilied versions and the source code are in the zip file.

When programming the PIC once the board is installed in the car you must remove the jumper on the pcb or the PIC programmer will try to power the MCM. It can't manage that and programming will fail. I suggest first program pic on bench once pcb is assembled that works fine.

If you just want 19 bars and no interaction with anything else just connect some jumper wire like I did between pins 1,2 & 4 on the I/O
connector.

I would like to thank Art (Aisbell) for his tidying up of my code.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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I just wanted to mention the connectors for the wires are the wrong size

Either the part # is wrong or somthing

Fyi

Steveo
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the heads up. I don't know what the equivalent Jameco part is.

The screw terminal connectors I use in UK on all my pcb's are from the Phoenix contact 2.54mm pitch range.

Browse for Products | Farnell United Kingdom

You should be able to find a US supplier or equivalents.

When you do please edit the google parts list.
 

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I just wanted to mention the connectors for the wires are the wrong size

Either the part # is wrong or somthing

Fyi

Steveo
Shoot, I was trying to keep everything from one shop, but Jameco doesn't have that size. I've updated the terminal blocks in both list with the correct sizes from Digikey (there's a link in the right column).

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Steveo

I have personally tested both the attached files this morning on the mini BCM interceptor in my project car. They work fine without error.

The checksums when programming are

81E1 for the variable Temp File
E402 for the fixed 27C Temp File

If your numbers don't match those then you have a programming/programmer or setting issue.

There is a slim possibility some change in the Honda BCM programming might cause an issue.
What are the part and software version numbers for your BCM & MCM.
 

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I have 2 sets of bcm & mcm

The original mcm & bcm in my car are

Mcm
1K000-PHM-060
7650-601712

Bmc
1K100-PHM-A00
7681-101808

My second set

MCM
1K000-PHM-305
7653-100705

BCM
1K100-PHM-305
7682-100135

I will report back with programming info.

Edit

Just tried both sets of mcm & bcm

Both give the p1648 error

On to check the programming next

Thanks


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A maricle it works

I reprogrammed it with the new LTC1487CN8 chips installed

I have a feeling the originals in the parts pdf dont work

The soc on the obd2c&c gauce shows 75.1% all the time, im displaying strangley 9 bars on the cars soc meter... Should i not be at 19 bars all te time peter?

Thanks for your help once again, your a honda insight battery hacking guru saver lol


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Discussion Starter #10
Make sure you have the connections correct on the mini bcm interceptor control connector. You have to short out some pins I forget the details. It's in this thread. I assume you have it set for fixed soc 19 bars (75%) I think you soldered some wires there.

Please try both versions of the software in the file I posted.

Please also try those other comms chips again to see if they do work with this software..

Did you give the oem soc gauge enough time to tick upto 19 bars?

If you wire some switches on the control connections you can test the over temp/over voltage and under voltage protection.

Remember do not use the interceptor or fooler with a single standard nimh pack.
 

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I'll print this out and check my service manual and see if there is a chance in hell it would work on the i2.

Maybe I missed something, but I thought to fool the soc of the insight all you needed was a series of resisters, or the resistor matrix I've read before?


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Discussion Starter #12
I'll print this out and check my service manual and see if there is a chance in hell it would work on the i2.
There isn't :(

Maybe I missed something, but I thought to fool the soc of the insight all you needed was a series of resisters, or the resistor matrix I've read before?
The resistor matrix is to fool the voltage taps. Nothing to do with Soc.

Do not despair though as on my bench is a Canbus enabled PIC and canbus transceiver chip which I may start tinkering with this winter if my mate Paul lends me a G2 Civic.

The Civic G2 is canbus and the ecm/mcm comms prob very similiar to the I2 I expect.
My first priority is getting my OBDIIC&C device working on the canbus cars then I will look at the canbus ima control.

A realistic timescale is 1 year to look at the OBDII Canbus stuff and 2 years probably before I look in depth at IMA Canbus and get some results. But at least it is on the horizon.
 

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Excellent! As per Peter's suggestion - do we want to establish an email list so that we are all copied with each others questions/answers? Easy to set up as a group in email programs, make a group named 'PP50 Build' and put all of our emails in. I personally think it would be a good idea.
If you all want to PM me with your emails, I'll set up the group and then all we have to do is reply to the group.

Rush
 

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Remember do not use the interceptor or fooler with a single standard nimh pack.
Peter,

I've obviously not understood something here... why not?

I only plan to use it as per your suggestions on the CARD switch thread -
1) Disable assist/regen at will. Even on later cars and CVT's when the clutch switch won't.
2) Command background regen at will. (Only MIMA/IMAC&C could previously do this)
3) Probably control/do other things I haven't thought of.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rush. The quote is from a thread where the enquirer (Steveo?) was possibly going to use it/them unmodified with the standard packs. Bad idea.

The BCM fooler should not be used with standard packs as per my message, because the BCM won't be able to detect imbalance etc.

The BCM interceptor can be used with standard packs with changes in the software to allow the correct soc through and to provide the Card Switch type capability.

This modified software is not written yet and won't be until a few people build up some boards and want to try it for that specific (Card Switch) purpose.

If you want me to look at that canvas a few others who might be/have shown an interest and if you get at least 3 people inc yourself as confirmed testers I'll look at it.
 

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Great!

Anybody else want to play with the MINI BCM Interceptor?

The CARD switch is just that - a switch (and a real PIA to install). From what I understand the MBI (Mini Bcm Interceptor) looks like it can do a lot more. One direct advantage is that it wll disable assist/regen at will. Even on later cars and CVT's when the clutch switch won't. And it will act as a MIMA in the sense that you can turn Regen and Assist on and off as needed. No more going up slight hills and seeing the Assist come on when it is not really needed and having to come up off the gas to eliminate the assist and slowing down and having to down shift to keep speed up!

Come on guys, support Peter... only 3 more Yes's needed.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Looking at the schematic from my 1st post we can have two simple on/off switches connected between pins 1 & 2 of J3 and the ground connector pin 4.

Pin1 ----/S------ Pin4
Pin2 ----/S ------ Pin4

They should be the simple momentary tiny tactile button type as I use on the HCH1 IMAC&C. That will make them easy to locate where you want (even on the steering wheel on manual cars) and will require three wires from the IPU compartment to the front of the car. A gash USB cable makes a good source of 4 core screened wire. If you want to move the led from the pcb to the dash you just need the spare wire in your USB cable for that as it can share the ground wire with the switches. We could make that flash etc when various functions are active.

The buttons can have several functions. We will call one the assist and the other the regen button

One short click <1s on assist button disables assist and another goes back to normal mode.
One short click <1s on regen button disables regen and another goes back to normal mode.

One medium click on regen button >1s <4s enables background regen and vice versa.

Looks pretty straightforward. You get the idea. :)
 

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Excellent Peter -

Thanks for the switch info. You're right it is quite simple.

And you read my mind about where I was going to put the switch/s. I found your thread about putting your MIMA switches on the steering wheel- very cool. I have an extra steering column and was going to look today to see if there are spare contacts on the reel. Will check it out tomorrow.

Is there anything that has to be changed in the code?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Is there anything that has to be changed in the code?
Yes lots. ;)

Edit I have just finished tweaking a basic version of the software for you to test when you get a board built and installed :) Didn't take as long as I thought.
 
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