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The BCM interceptor light should be flashing when the ignition is on.
Where is it in your setup? I can't see it..

What are the DTC subcodes codes if any? not just the OBDII ones?
Can we have some really big good quality pics of the various parts of the setup.
 

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You can (depending on your firmware version) read the actual IMA DTC codes using the obdIIc&c.
Go into the menu and scroll down until you get "Read MCM dtc" on the top line of the menu.

You need to install the 20R resistor, that will def be one of the faults.

I still need to see decent picture of your BCM Interceptor and wiring.

Did you make it?
What software is it running?
Have you installed jumper wires on J3 I/O from pins 1&2 to pin 4?
 

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The missing PTC resistor will give a code and the ima probably won't work.

You also need to connect pins 1&2 to pin 4 (GND) on the BCM interceptor.

Pin 1 is the overvoltage lockout, if this is high (left unconnected) it won't allow any regen.
Pin 2 is the undervoltage lockout, if this is high (left unconnected) it won't allow any assist/ima start.

The BCM Interceptor software isn't the same as the OBDIIC&C software 'ODBIIC&C_V01N_2620_030120_US1'
 

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100 ohms will probably work.

What does the piccircuit programmer supplier website say?

Try downloading the whole programming package again, uninstall the old and reinstall the new.
 

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What have you fixed?

Exactly what error codes have you got now?

The circled part is the grey power for the dc-dc converter connector.
How are you powering yours?

I'm concerned about some of the connections on your battery pack and switch board but we still need full size better images to confirm.
 

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Yes we need lots of decent pictures showing all your battery and switchboard connections.

Also exactly what codes do you have now?
Use the paperclip method if necessary get all the blink codes.
Film them and then decode at your leisure on your PC.

Your dc-dc needs to be plugged into that connector.
 

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Look at any standard IMA setup image and you will see that dc-dc plug and connector there are zillions on google.
I googled 'honda insight dc-dc converter' images
 

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I agree that proper 12v resets are required during this trouble shooting as some codes are very reluctant to clear.

I shall wait for the voltage readings natalya requested before commenting further.
 

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So with the car off but the main IMA switch on what is the voltage at the normal grid charger connection points?

What is that burn mark on one of the bus bars on the switchboard picture? When/how did you do that?

If you battery is at 185V resting volts what two voltage hacking resistors have you used to get the voltage down into the normal operating range and where exactly have you fitted them? I would like pictures of those please.

You should have

One in the BCM Fooler positive feed wire from the battery.
One in the orange VPIN wire.
 

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For now let's just get it going. We can change stuff later.

Once you confirm it is all working correctly then I will look at the settings.

Please use the firmware I posted above to flash your BCM Interceptor.
 

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You moved the wrong wire!!

Move the other wire. Put the wire with the resistor back on J13.

If the BCM interceptor light is blinking then the input from the BCM is wired correctly.
Did you do the same wiring for the output to the MCM, same wire colours etc.

You won't get the correct voltage at the top connections until the fault is located and cured.
The contactors are disengaging as soon as the fault is detected.

It's very difficult to diagnose from thousands of miles away.
 

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I think I see a problem.

It looks like you have the resistor in the wire going to the MCM HV input! :(

The resistor is supposed to be in the wire between the battery + and J13 (The input into the BCM fooler)

The feed to the MCM connects directly to J12 (No resistor)
 

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This won't cure the fault but your BCM fooler is still not quite right!
The red wire that goes up the inside of the orange conduit needs to be connected to J12!!!
Alongside the tap wire already connected. I thought I said that in my last post...

The feed to the MCM connects directly to J12 (No resistor)
The reason we could not spot all your BCM fooler wiring problems earlier was that on your previous pics we could not see the orange conduit, so could not see how it was actually connected..



Anyway searching for P1444 on here gives us lots of ideas.




You basically have a short or leak between the High Voltage LTO side and the car chassis..

With a multimeter and rubber gloves check for voltage between all of your LTO battery terminals, switchboard HV side connections etc and the car chassis. There should not be any.. Post Result here..

Have you got a decent insulation sheet attached to the back of the dc-dc converter?
With your switchboard jammed up against it like that is there a short?
Check carefully every HV connection/busbar etc and it's proximity to chassis etc.

You will understand why I hate seeing the switchboard out of position and not secured!
That's one of the reasons I'm developing the 48 Cell conversion and retaining the OEM position/mounting.
 
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