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It will be interesting to see if the new software actually helps because I would be surprised if the insight was background charging you enough for your regen to cutoff. I just don't know exactly how the code is written for the car and don't know how retepsnikrep has programmed the BCM interceptor.

I knew something was up when you said that you saw background charging at the high pack voltage, it really shouldn't do that with the BCM Interceptor software.

The issue probably not enough people are using and testing the new Interceptor software. I'm using the old software as I will manually deal with my battery management.
 

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How do you compare a Fit, that was an all electric vehicle to an Insight that is a hybrid and now a Frankenstein Hybrid LTO ?

Did you check to make sure the horn works? Because again, the horn and brake lights share the same fuse and if it’s blown, brake regen doesn’t work correctly.

Scott
 

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Chicago & Detroit
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Discussion Starter #404 (Edited)
@KLR3CYL, I forgot the Fit was EV. I guess my question should have been how does a newer car with a lithium pack deal with charge and discharge?
With regard to the car, the horn and everything works. My my regen was always fine but too much background charging. Bulldog's cruise control uses the cancel button to operate the regen, and the brake lights come on as well when the cancel button is used.
@retepsnikrep, yes the software is working perfectly. I thought I indicated that earlier. I am now 150 miles into my all-highway drive and I've stopped twice (used regen) and started twice (hammered down using using assist) and Lta is now 2.380 in my Ltp is 171. The road has EDIT: occasional inclines where spirts of 28A assist is used. The regen does come on to help me brake, which is exactly what I'm looking for. I don't expect to drive around town at all except to get from the highway to home.
 

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Discussion Starter #405
Arrived: 310 miles and one stop. Lta 2.365; Ltp 170. Brake regen works great. It'll be interesting to see what the figures are after I return and how the BCMI software interacts with my driving style.
Interesting fun fact: Ambient was ~45-50F and dry. Dte (DC-DC temperature) ended up at 93F and the Bte (pack temperature) didn't come off the peg.
 

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The SOC won't drop from 75% until your LTP two minute average goes below 160V.

When it does drop it will drop to 50% SOC and you should immediately get some background charging until it rises above 160V again.

It should then hover around that ~160V level in some fashion, alternating between
75% SOC (No charging) and 50% SOC (Background charging)
 

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Discussion Starter #407
you're saying that once the pack reaches the 160V level, the car will see SOC of 50, at which time background charging will work. I assume the pack voltage will work its way back to the high level as a result of background charging, at which point the background charging will stop again? At what pack voltage level will the background charging stop, 170V, 175V?
What is the reason my recent background charging did not register on the gauge? Will the charging from 160V up be unnoticed or invisible "background" charging or will the gauge present an indication?

Thanks Peter, just trying to understand this. I don't know what would make my setup any different from anybody else's, were you aware of cyclic, invisible background charging, mine going as high as 11A, if only for seconds?
 

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1) It will stop background charging and go back to 75% SOC as soon as the 2 minute average voltage is over 160V.

It will then cycle between 50/75% SOC, you will have to monitor and report on that.

2)The charge may show on the OEM gauge, but the OBDIIC&C will always show it.
 

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Discussion Starter #409
Since I suspect some negative but erratic interactions from my rear harness being twisted and folded in order to connect my MCM/BCM in the "well" position, I'm pursuing @jime LTO V3 mod, but with some twists. This general layout will allow me to install the modules on top of the front pack and use the harness with no twists and folds and strain.

I'm still in the contemplating mode with some things, like how to mount the modules. My goal is to lengthen the four-corner legs of the original holding structure and mount it on top the front pack, clearing my LTO BMS harness connectors.
I've loosely calculated I need to move the front-most vertical surface of the front pack rearward to a position that's 1.70" from the center of the original NiMH-pack front securing-fasteners. That should allow me to overcome the slanted part of the floor enough to drop the front pack 1", allowing me 2 3/4" space. Haven't gotten that far yet. I'm waiting until next week when businesses reopen before I can get some welding done.
20201230_173723.jpg
 

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Just remember in your layout efforts that the BCM/MCM cases operate at electrical ground potential in the OEM.
 
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Discussion Starter #411
The BCM/MCM structure will be grounded, thru the mini plates, thru the 4 fasteners securing the pack structure.
 

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Just remember in your layout efforts that the BCM/MCM cases operate at electrical ground potential in the OEM.
In the 2005 Insight I converted there is the extra OEM foam piece that sits below the OEM IMA battery. For that Insight the MCM and BCM rest on it (under the LTO batteries) and the MCM and BCM don't touch any part of the chassis. But the car works totally fine, no CEL.

Are you saying the two computers NEED to touch the chassis?
 

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Discussion Starter #413
@jime said that, not me. I think each box has several grounds so it's not that important as you obviously have determined.
 

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Are you saying the two computers NEED to touch the chassis?
No, not really. They do in the OEM configuration. My concern is that dangerous collision situations don't get set up. IF the BCM/MCM cases actually were at chassis ground potential, AND they were near the battery tops with no insulation between, then that could be a dangerous combination in a roll-over situation. The use of aluminum threads to anchor the packs (as I have done), seems a bit weak in that scenario. But I suppose none of us are going to do DOT level collision testing so all such questions are just speculation;)

I am working on better anchors - probably rivet nuts.

I was interested in your comment of fact that you 05 conversion leaves the modules electrically ungrounded. I had not considered doing that, but they are actually ungrounded anytime the OEM car is driven without the IPU lid. I have also considered electrical noise immunity, but from your 05 results that seems not a problem.

Maybe I just worry too much. After all, once the IPU cover is installed, any loose pack is likely to create a fire in a roll-over.
 

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Discussion Starter #415
@jime, it's nice to know all the in-and-outs and anything that may be questionable when one's forging an untested path, especially safety issues. It would also be nice to hear the thoughts and theory behind such acertions. That way I (we) can make informed decisions. Thanks @Natalya for asking the question. I learned something. "There is no stupid question".
 

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It would also be nice to hear the thoughts and theory behind such acertions. That way I (we) can make informed decisions.
I thought I did reveal the theory. Safety is all just conjecture with these conversions. We don't really know for sure how effective any configuration really is. We can make judgements ;)
Thanks @Natalya for asking the question. I learned something. "There is no stupid question".
Yes, it is a good piece of information to have. If I had thought it through, I would have realized that the BCM/MCM cases are effective Faraday shields.
 

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In the first two LTO conversions (my car and @Adria 's car) I did I put the MCM and BCM behind the bulkhead, underneath the tom mix bar, so if those cars roll there's no way they hit one of the terminals and short it. In the third one (the 2005) they're sitting underneath the LTO batteries, so there's much less stress on the OEM wire harness, but also if the car did roll they wouldn't be able to hit the terminals on the LTO batteries. In all 3 cars each terminal has one of those marine-grade rubber boots on it, and I put blocks//sheets of insulating foam and//or coroplast (depending on the car) underneath the IPU lid, so there's an additional barrier to prevent those terminals from contacting the lid if the car rolled, or if the owner drops something really really heavy on the IPU lid.
 

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Discussion Starter #420
The ones that were held together with the nut & bolt, the ones that hold the cells together, I had them spot welded top and bottom first, ground the tabs with an air grinder then welded the seam. The grinding took a while due to heat build-up and the need for cooling. For the hold-down tabs I used vise grips and bent them up and down until they came off.
 
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