My electronic Gremlins have returned. I need the Big Guns @mudder
During the last iteration my IMA light would come on everytime I turned off the ignition, or it would turn on while driving. At that time I was only able to turn off the IMA light upon switching the ignition off just for a second (to break an electrical contact) and then restart it instantly (driving or parked trying to initially start). When I was starting the car from cold the IMA light would be on before I started (from previous turning off) so I would turn the ignition off and then turn it back on so the IMA light would go off, enabling me to start the car with the IMA. I would then cancel the CEL light with the OBD2 C&C. One time I was in the parking lot when I stalled the car. I restart the car from the Ignition I position ( on position) and it started with the IMA, ie I did not turn the car or the ignition completely off.
People suggested that I clean all the connector-pins; I did that a couple days ago. I took the commutator connector apart at the rear of the engine, C103 connector under the center dash apart, C505 behind and between the seats apart and I took out all the MCM connectors. I cleaned them all very thoroughly with electronic spray using about 3/4 of one can. After that I could not get rid of the IMA / CEL lights. The only time the IMA light was not present at start is after it sat for 30 minutes or longer, then when started it would come on instantly again.
Today I took all four connectors apart again and did a continuity check between the Commutator and C103, put that together, Commutator to C505, then Commutator to D connector in the MCM. All values were very close to the same at roughly a short.
I put all connectors back together and heard solid clicks.
Now, at this time I do not get the IMA / CEL lights. I haven't driven the car but started it and stopped it multiple times in the garage with the same positive result.
I'm not confident this problem with the IMA-CEL lights won't come back. This is the second time I checked continuity and the problem went away for several weeks. It seems to me like there is a capacitance within the lines and when I do a continuity check the capacitance gets "relieved" and everything works well. I think what the problem indicated was there was never a mechanical connection problem but some sort of an electrical one.
Can someone please suggest how to go about troubleshooting this problem when it happens again.