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Discussion Starter #81
Just occurred to me that if there's high voltage between the grid charger taps, (bottom of the circuit board) and there's not high voltage at the between the two points at the top of the circuit board there's got to be something wrong in between those two points. I've got to look into that when I get home in a couple hours but I think that's a good place to start. I know that Tuesday when I got things together I did check those two voltage point in there are very similar
 

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Just occurred to me that if there's high voltage between the grid charger taps, (bottom of the circuit board) and there's not high voltage at the between the two points at the top of the circuit board there's got to be something wrong in between those two points. I've got to look into that when I get home in a couple hours but I think that's a good place to start. I know that Tuesday when I got things together I did check those two voltage point in there are very similar
Hi, sorry, this is incorrect. I thought the same thing too when I first started looking at IMA batteries, but this is NOT the case. The red one not showing any voltage at times or lower than total pack voltage is completely normal. To get pack voltage you HAVE to connect at the bottom of the junction board (where grid charger hooks up) instead of that terminal at the top. That's why the BCM Fooler is hooked up to the grid charger positive.
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
so you think if I move my battery pack negative from the top of the board where it goes on top of the DC-DC negative to the same place as yours it'll work? Electrically they are the same.
I responded to this issue on your recent post, can you also answer on my post for continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
@Natalya -
  • I didn't see this post. At this time what I haven't done is to reduce the pack voltage to 178V using a bulb discharger.
  • Don't measure IMA + voltage at the top of the junction board. The IMA negative terminal there works, but the positive is usually disconnected. *** in the past I measured pack voltage. Not sure what you mean by the positive is usually disconnected.
  • Does your OBDIIC&C work? - NO, out of commision. I'll be back to Detroit soon and have a new one made
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I'll do that when I get back. Those two connections are the same electrically... WHOOPS - the LED is in between. That's what "fooled" me. You've got to be right. Thanks for your persistence. I tried to give you two "Likes" but that doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
I had the J13 location on the schematic made-up in my head since it wasn't marked on the schematic. The HV + should go to the switch side of LED and the MCM E-8 with 20k resistor connection should go the other side, (R10 junction), in addition to the wire going to BCM C-9, right?
 

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Try this firmware for the BCM Interceptor.

Note you must rename it to HEX. It is not a PDF.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I see you inserted voltage range up to 190V. Nice

I'd rather change my temperature fake to start at 55°F since I'm not going to be racing around. I'd rather monitor my battery from a lower temperature, especially during cold weather. To change to 13°C temperature please confirm I would use $2D
 

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For now let's just get it going. We can change stuff later.

Once you confirm it is all working correctly then I will look at the settings.

Please use the firmware I posted above to flash your BCM Interceptor.
 
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