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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Someone PM'd me about how to reset the LMPG, so I thought I'd post this 'resets cheat sheet' I had compiled and saved. I haven't tried the LMPG method or climate control stuff, but all the others I've tried and the methods work. I'm thinking there are a few other reset-type things for the Insight that might be added to this thread, such as SoC resets, IMA-related, etc. Please add if you think of anything...

Maintenance Required light (2000 manual is wrong):
1. Press and hold trip button until the end of step 5.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.
3. Wait for the "maintenance required" light to turn off (about 10 seconds).
4. Turn the ignition key to the "lock" position.
5. Turn the ignition key back to the "on" position.

Reset Lifetime MPG calculation:
1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Press trip button to display odometer/LMPG.
3. Press and hold trip button until LMPG display starts to blink (approximately 5 seconds) then release trip button.
4. Press and hold trip button again while display is blinking. Hold it until the display clears to dashes.

Reset Auto window-down:
Engine off, windows up: Insert key and turn to position II, with dashboard lights on; Press down and hold window switch, keep holding it after the window rolls all the way down, for about three-four-five seconds, until you hear a faint "click." Immediately, press switch up and hold as before, keep holding it after window is all the way up, three-four-five seconds more, until you hear another faint "click." Release switch, turn off ignition, remove key. Now, your auto-down should be reset.

Reset ABS blink codes:
1. With the ignition switch OFF, connect the HDS to the 16P data link connector (DLC) (A).
2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground using the HDS.
3. Press the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) while continuing to press the brake pedal.
5. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake pedal.
6. After the ABS indicator comes on, press the brake pedal again.
7. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake pedal.
8. After a few seconds, the ABS indicator blinks twice and the DTC is cleared. If the indicator does not blink twice, repeat steps 1 thru 7 . If the ABS indicator stays on after it blinks twice, check the DTC, because a problem was detected during initial diagnosis before shifting to DTC clearing mode.
9. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.

Climate Control Diagnostic Readings:
Hold down AUTO and MODE while turning on the key, and the A/C display flashes between two numbers. Press the rear window defogger (leftmost) button to advance to the next sensor.

The first number is the sensor:
1 = in car temp
2 = outside temp
3 = sun sensor
4 = engine coolant tmperature
5 = evaporator temp
6 = air mix opening %
7 = vent temp out
8 = something about the fan
9 = vehicle speed

For the temperature sensors the reading is in degrees C. If a sensor is disconnected or shorted it displays "Er"....you can also check whether the exterior temperature sensor is disconnected using the diagnostic feature of the climate control system. To do this, follow these steps:

Cars with A/C
1. Turn on ignition
2. Press and hold "AUTO".
3. While continuing to hold "AUTO", press and hold "OFF".
4. Keep both pressed until display begins flashing.

The climate control display should now be flashing the digits 88 followed by a diagnostic code in which one or more LCD segments remain lit. If the upper most segment of the left 8 digit remains lit, then the exterior temperature sensor is disconnected.

Here's instructions on how to reset the electric power steering trouble codes/light, from this link:
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...ing/42713-troubleshooting-eps.html#post456921

Reset EPS (Service Check Signal Circuit Method)
1. With ignition off and wheels pointing straight ahead, short SCS circuit to chassis ground (Pins 4 & 9 in the OBD2 DLC connector)
2. Turn steering wheel 45 degrees left and hold.
3. Turn on ignition. EPS light should come on then go out after 4 seconds.
4. Within 4 seconds after light goes out, turn steering wheel straight ahead and release. EPS light should come on after 4 seconds.
5. Turn steering wheel 45 degrees left again and hold. EPS light should turn off after 4 seconds.
6. Within 4 seconds after light goes out, turn steering wheel straight ahead and release. EPS light should blink twice indicating that the DTC was erased from the EPS controller's nonvolatile memory.
 

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Nicely done. This should be stickied. The only thing I would add is resetting the IMA SoC and idle re-learn. If you or someone else doesn't want to type them, I'll edit this post with them when I'm on my computer later tonight.

Edit:

Reset IMA SoC (State of Charge):
1:Turn ignition switch off
2:Remove No. 18 BACK UP (7.5A) fuse from the under dash fuse/relay box, leave removed for 10 seconds. OR remove the negative battery terminal for 10 seconds.
3:Reinstall fuse or negative battery terminal
4:Start the engine and rev to between 3500-4000 RPMs while in neutral or park, hold the RPMs up until the battery gauge shows 3 bars.
5:Leave car idling in neutral while the car performs battery re-calibration, once done you can shut car off.

Idle Learn Procedure:
1: Make sure all electrical items are off
2: Start engine
3: Hold engine speed at 3000 RPM without load (in park/neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or the engine coolant temperature reaches 176-221*F
4: Let engine idle for about 5 minutes with throttle fully closed and all electrical items off
5: After 5 minutes you can shut the engine off
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Link to a description of How to Read Blink Codes:

Decided to just insert Mike D.'s pic and description of the process here, I doubt he'd mind...

Here's a pic of the OBD connector and the pins you need to short to get into "SCS" mode. This applies to other procedures that require you to go into 'SCS mode' as well:

87044



Here's the text, READING BLINK CODES, lightly edited:
"While most of the nice OBDII code readers can tell us which P code is causing a check engine or IMA light, they cannot tell us the subcode ('Blink' code). The photo above shows which pins need to be shorted together on the Insight OBDII plug to have the car report the blink subcodes. Short with wire or paper clip and the codes are reported.

When reading IMA blink codes, the IMA light blinks, and if the check engine light is on it will blink as well. Example: a 74 IMA code would be 7 slow blinks and 4 fast blinks (of the IMA light). If there is more than one code, the blinking will have a longer pause and then blink out the second code. It will cycle through all the codes in a circular fashion. Say there was a 74, 78, and 63. The IMA light would blink the 74, then the 78, then the 63, and then start back with the 74 and repeat until you release the short."
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
^ Here's my paraphrase of the start clutch procedure found in the factory service manual 14-178. I can't find the 'coast down' procedure, don't know what it is... If it were up to me, I'd add "/ Reading Blink Codes" to the thread title and sticky this to the top of the problems and troubleshooting forum, or maybe just the 'discussions' forum...

CVT Start Clutch Calibration Procedure
When the following parts are replaced or removed, the TCM must memorize the feedback signal for the CVT start clutch control: battery, back-up fuse, TCM, transmission assembly, lower valve body assembly, engine assembly replacement or overhaul, and/or start clutch replacement.

Prep: Apply parking brake, block wheels, warm-up engine (radiator fan comes ON). Make sure check engine light CEL doesn't come on and the 'D' indicator does not blink. If they do, check the PGM-FI control system or the A/T control system. Turn ignition switch OFF.

Test: Get into 'SCS' mode - short pins 4 and 9 on the OBD connector (see image above in the 'Reading Blink Codes' post).

1. Press brake pedal and continue pressing until end of calibration.
2. Start engine: you now have 20 seconds to shift to neutral N and then to L three times in a row.

3. With selector in neutral, the D indicator should come ON for one minute and then turn OFF. If it blinks or comes on and stays on for more than 1 minute, turn ignition OFF and start over at "Test."

4. Shift to D, D indicator should come ON for 2 minutes and then go OFF. If it blinks or comes on and stays on for more than 2 minutes, turn ignition OFF and start over at "Test."
[note: FSM says 2 minutes in first instance then 1 minute in second instance, but that doesn't make sense, so it's either first 2 minute value is wrong and is only 1 minute, or the second 1 minute value is wrong and is 2 minutes.]

5. Turn ignition switch OFF to complete procedure.

Here's a link to another thread that discusses CVT problems, start clutch calibration: CVT clutch / transmission problems - solved - useful...

Here's a link to a good summary of a couple different CVT-related procedures - burnishing, clutch, and start clutch (latter same as above):
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Terminal Replacement Procedures

I've mentioned in a couple threads in the past that often it's easy to remove terminals from various electrical connectors on the Insight. The GRN/WHT and GRN/BLK wires at the DCDC connector come to mind - you don't need to cut the wires, you can just pull the terminals for a neater and easily reversible hack...

But, there's a lot of different connectors on the car and often it's not so easy. Or even the ones that are easy the method isn't always obvious to everyone.

So, what to my surprise, I happened to come across a terminal replacement procedure 'mini' manual inside the electrical troubleshooting manual. There's diagrams showing how to remove terminals from the various types of connectors.

This can be accessed in the downloadable pdf service manual.* In HondaInsightPDFs\Electric Troubleshooting Manual folder, open the 'index' doc. Click the big "MENU" box in the upper left corner. In the doc that opens you'll find a box at the bottom left column that says "Terminal Replacement Procedure." There you go...

It's also in the paper copy of the electrical troubleshooting manual, toward the back.

* Actually, I've just attached a copy of the doc to this post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I thought it might be good to put a link to the "DASH/TRIP BUTTON EXCHANGE" service that, in the distant past, was handled by Highwater, and is currently handled by KLR3CYL. I think there's also a couple posts about how to fix the trip button, or maybe links to other threads.


The trip button often goes bad on the Insight and needs to be replaced. If your trip button is flaky, you won't be able to:

-reset the Maintenance Required light
-page from Trip A to Trip B to Lifetime mileage displays
-reset Trip display average and total miles values
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Here's a description of the proper "clocking" of OEM letter-indexed spark plugs (A,B,C,D). I posted part of this in another thread responding to someone's question, but thought it'd be good here as well:

The head needs to have the closed side of the spark plug's grounding electrode at about 9-10 o'clock as seen from the front of the engine, when you're bending over the spark plugs. So that would put the open side, the 'gap side', at about 3-4 o'clock.

The red dots in the image below correspond to the closed side of the grounding electrode, as viewed from the front side of the engine (bending over the engine, as if you were installing the plugs), at about 9-10 o'clock.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
When I was putzing-around with a mod to adjust DCDC output voltage, I recorded output voltage at the 12V battery vs. pulse-width modulation (PWM) values at the device I was using, i.e. different PWM duties correspond to different output voltages. I often find myself needing to revisit that list of values, thought it'd be good here. Here's a link to the original thread: Mod to Adjust DCDC Converter Output Voltage

The basic output voltages I've measured are about:

14.1V at cold start, until engine warms up
13.85V once engine warms up
12.2V minimum constant voltage at DCDC low power mode.


PWM duty cycle %, output V measured at 12V battery*
High duty=low voltage, low duty= high voltage:


100, 13.85V ('DVCT' RED/YEL wire from DCDC disconnected)
90, 13.85V
80, 13.91
70, 14.02
60, 14.12
50, 14.21
40, 14.30
30, 14.38
20, 14.45
10, 14.51
0, 15.13 ('DVCT' RED/YEL wire from DCDC grounded)

* Should be close to actual DCDC output, as my 12V battery is an efficient, fast-kinetics NiMH, lead-acid might be different, as that type of battery won't absorb the charge as fast, which will hold the voltage down. Basically, it looks like each 10% threshold corresponds to a 0.10V change, except the ~bottom and top 90% to 80% and 20% to 10%.
 

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Here's the data I gathered on my test bench:

PWM, Vout
90656


Seems to agree with your data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A new owner was asking about Insight-specific things to look for. I suggested some things and thought they might be a good addition to this thread. Here's a link, I've copied the whole post below: New owner of 2001, picked it up and drove it across US...

...I'll do a tune-up, replace brake pads as needed, etc etc, and I'm reading the posts here. I'm wondering if you all can advise me as to must-check/must-dos that I might miss b/c of my inexperience with the car?
A couple things that come to mind, that tend to be specific to the Insight:

-check the 12V system grounds, 2 lower right hand side of air box, one 12V battery neg to firewall. Make sure they're in good condition. They corrode and break easily, can cause a lot of weird problems.

-rear motor/transmission mount: they crack and break easily and cause a lot of noise, vibration, and general slop.

-spark plugs are special 'indexed' variety. There's a letter stamped into the head by each spark plug hole (same letter per head, though different heads can have different letters, A-D, most often it's B). Make sure you've got the correct plugs, torqued properly. The letter index and correct torquing ensures that the plugs are properly 'clocked', which impacts combustion characteristics, which impacts stuff like the smoothness of entry into lean burn (higher than normal air-fuel ratio)...

Here's a link to a thread with various resetting-like tips: Misc. RESETS

-one more: This one might matter down the road, like in winter. A common water leak area happens, over the rear quarter windows. There's a couple trim pieces on the roof, about 6 inches long, in the 'rain gutters', just forward of the upper corners of the hatch, where the roof meets the hatch. If those areas are plugged-up with debris, water pools and ends up leaking in various ways. I'd suggest pulling those clips and making sure those gutters are clean.

If you see any cracks in the putty-like seams in that area, patch them up with something, like window weld or maybe black silicone, or maybe polyurethane sealant/caulk. It doesn't take much if needing to patch.

-a couple bonus items, along the lines of the above: a lot of debris can collect in pocket-like areas behind the front wheel well liners. That's a major water drainage area. If there's a lot of debris water can pool. Pull those liners and make sure those areas are free of debris.

-There's water drainage holes at the center of each front OEM jack point. Make sure those are clear. There's water drainage holes in a couple places along the bottom of the doors. As I recall they're under the bottom rubber gasket thing. Pull the gasket/seal away from the metal and make sure it's not gunked-up.

-another one: poke your head under the driver's side dash, look at the firewall above the clutch pedal - where the clutch master cylinder goes through the firewall, check for fluid damage/leakage. If you see signs of current or former leakage, replace the clutch master cylinder (or check your paperwork to see if it has been replaced - if the signs of leakage are only of former leakage).
 
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