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Sounds like a lot of work and expense when all you need to do is slow down a little. Especially if it is only temporary.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #62
You can throw a 12 volt battery in the spare tire area (or the IMA bay if you've taken the IMA battery out)... the heavy gauge +/- route there so you can just add the battery in there (to the DCDC). I'd always leave both batteries connected... no need to add a switch IMO.
 

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If you are going to have a 12V battery of any usable capacity in the passenger footwell, or any other place in the passenger compartment where it can be become a projectile in a collision or rollover, please secure it like your life depends on it. Because it does.
 

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I put a voltmeter in my car and here is what I observed in my car with no IMA battery and Mudder's Arduino uno mod.

There is only charging between 1500RPM-4000RPM after the car is warmed up.

At idle, without battery light, voltage is usually around 12.1-12.7v.
At idle or driving, with battery light on (after getting the engine over 4000rpm), voltage is around 11.xv.

So, if you have to drive in heavy traffic with everything on and you have a manual transmission, I would suggest you bump up the idle speed to 1500 RPM and install a voltmeter.

 

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Excellent Suggestion. I have come across this same issue and bumping up the idle to 1500 rpm's should solve this problem. Thank you
 

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Will it work without an IMA battery all together?

Howdy folks, here's a video showing a quick, simple modification that prevents the ECM from controlling whether the DCDC is charging the 12 volt battery. This means the DCDC will always keep the 12 volt rail at 14.x volts when the car is running (or in autostop), unless the IMA battery is discharged (because the MCM can still control the DCDC converter). Battery charge voltage is still controlled by the engine temperature. Thus, the DCDC behaves much more like a true alternator, in that if the engine is running, then the 12 volt battery is charging.

The modification is simple:
Step 1: Cut the WHT/GRN wire that connects to the DCDC converter. See video for wire location.
Step 2: Wrap cut leads with electrical tape, to prevent shorting.
Step 3: There's no step 3.

Bonus: That annoying electrical squeal sound will go away, too... it's caused by the above ECM signal.

Questions, comments anticipated and appreciated. More technical information in the linked video.
Mr. Mudder, I am wondering if that would work if I eliminated my IMA battery. I am having so much trouble getting a good IMA battery (and I am too cheap to buy a new one) that I would like to just take it out and run it like an economy car but I need the 12v to stay charged. I was looking for a thread to advise me and I found this one. Thanks for whatever you can offer.
 

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In my experience, pulling the IMA stopped the DCDC from charging the 12 volt battery when reved over 4k rpms and when idling under 1,200 rpms. Adjusting the idle to 1,200 rpms caused the engine to fluctuate from 1100 to 1600 rpms, at a stop and the check engine light came on. Adjusting the idle to 1100 rpms did not charge the battery sufficiently and the battery drained. I do like what Mudder mentioned, put a spare in the IMA compartment with heavy gauge cable. I found putting the 12 volt on a charge once a week has helped as well. Always have a fully charged booster battery with you.
 

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In my experience, pulling the IMA stopped the DCDC from charging the 12 volt battery when reved over 4k rpms and when idling under 1,200 rpms. Adjusting the idle to 1,200 rpms caused the engine to fluctuate from 1100 to 1600 rpms, at a stop and the check engine light came on. Adjusting the idle to 1100 rpms did not charge the battery sufficiently and the battery drained. I do like what Mudder mentioned, put a spare in the IMA compartment with heavy gauge cable. I found putting the 12 volt on a charge once a week has helped as well. Always have a fully charged booster battery with you.
I thank you for that but I am getting the feeling that it is just not worth all the trouble. I went back to try to read the entire thread and it made me very sleepy :grin: I don't think I am up to this Insight adventure. But it has been interesting to say the least.
 

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I thank you for that but I am getting the feeling that it is just not worth all the trouble. I went back to try to read the entire thread and it made me very sleepy :grin: I don't think I am up to this Insight adventure. But it has been interesting to say the least.
what is your objective? Is it just to be able to drive without the fear of being stranded? if so, I would just disconnect the IMA battery and drive around that way. you could do this or even less than this and leave the IMA in place but just bypass it: Hybrid Automotive - Insight Battery Bypass Board Installation
 

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Amen my brother. It can be quite stressful when your car dies in the middle of an intersection and your battery is completely dead. Not a lot of forgiving souls around at that particular moment. I am on the fence, if this is all worth pursuing myself. I may tinker with it a little more.
 

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My objective is to operate without IMA. The IMA battery has been removed, the battery by-pass and the ECM fooler have been installed. I continue to have these 12 volt battery drain problems.
 

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If so, then get the battery "load tested".

HTH
Willie
 

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It is a brand new battery. My load tester showed it was strong. I will check it again with a third party load tester, just to be sure. Thanks
 

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Mr. Mudder, I am wondering if that would work if I eliminated my IMA battery. I am having so much trouble getting a good IMA battery (and I am too cheap to buy a new one) that I would like to just take it out and run it like an economy car but I need the 12v to stay charged.
These are the parts you need to bypass IMA battey, remove the IMA battery, keep the 12v charged and without IMA/CEL light coming on.

Click on the link on my signature for details.

 

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My objective is to operate without IMA. The IMA battery has been removed, the battery by-pass and the ECM fooler have been installed. I continue to have these 12 volt battery drain problems.
Are you using stock ground cables? Have you been monitoring the voltage and see how your charging system is doing? How is your IMA bypassed, got pictures?
 

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In my experience, pulling the IMA stopped the DCDC from charging the 12 volt battery when reved over 4k rpms and when idling under 1,200 rpms. Adjusting the idle to 1,200 rpms caused the engine to fluctuate from 1100 to 1600 rpms, at a stop and the check engine light came on. Adjusting the idle to 1100 rpms did not charge the battery sufficiently and the battery drained. I do like what Mudder mentioned, put a spare in the IMA compartment with heavy gauge cable. I found putting the 12 volt on a charge once a week has helped as well. Always have a fully charged booster battery with you.
It does't sounds like your charging system is working well.

I idle my IMA-less Insight a lot and run a/c all the time, and I have none of the issues you listed.
 

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Thank you all for the input. I do need to use the Arduino board and software. I have not gone that route yet. The rest of the by-pass is spot on to your photo. I am using stock ground cables. Should I get larger ground cables? I am tracking the voltage with a monitor plugged into the cigarette lighter. I watch the voltage go upto 13.5 volts when running up in speed. At a stop, it drops from 13.5 to 10.6 volts. At any given time, that battery is completely drained and will only start with a jump.
 

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Thank you all for the input. I do need to use the Arduino board and software. I have not gone that route yet. The rest of the by-pass is spot on to your photo. I am using stock ground cables. Should I get larger ground cables? I am tracking the voltage with a monitor plugged into the cigarette lighter. I watch the voltage go upto 13.5 volts when running up in speed. At a stop, it drops from 13.5 to 10.6 volts. At any given time, that battery is completely drained and will only start with a jump.
10.6V sounds low.

My car is a Arizona car and my ground cables were all corroded. I replaced three ground cables with 1/0 welding cables and left the power steering ground alone. The welding cables were overkill for the car, but I had them and they were free.

I would inspect your ground cables, and they probably need to be replaced.
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/20890-ground-locations.html



 

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Charge the battery back up and let it set with nothing connected. Check the voltage several hours later. That will tell you a lot about the battery. Sounds like a dead cell in the battery.
(Won't take a charge)

HTH
Willie
 

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Excellent information. I will work on all recommendations. I bought a harbor freight load tester. Second time it failed me. What name and where do I get a great load tester that won't fail me?
 
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