^ The DCDC doesn't turn ON until after you start the car, though, so I think something a bit different is taking place... Or, I guess it's the same thing, just the sequence is different.
Yeah, I know. I was describing the normal operation.eq1: Actually with the GRN/BLK cut the DC/DC turns on as soon as I put the key to ON position or before I start the car. This allows me to use the radio without the gas engine running.
Wow. That's a lot (more than I'd want currently from hardly driving during COVID-19).I decided to check the parasitic load on my car. Its 6ma or .006 amps.
If my calculations are correct this means that it would take (.006 amps) (24hours) = .144 amp hours a day.
1 amp hour / .144 amp hours = 7 days.
As I recall the starter motor is 1000W, so current will depend on how well the 12V battery can uphold voltage. I think my NiMH 12V battery was at something like 8V or 9V when starting once, 'cool' but not dead of winter cold. 1000W/8.5V=118 amps... I think Julian Edgar once reported he measured 130 amps.It would be interesting to know the starter current after a deep cold soak in the dead of winter.
Yes, but not when starting the car from 'cold'... at least not appreciably. Under normal use for the last few years, I've seen at most 100 mA error (versus a calibrated current probe I installed for my own purposes). Of course, even that 100 mA error will cause battery recalibration from time to time.One issue that crossed my mind, with cutting BLK/GRN DCDC, that I'm unsure about, is this: Would load from DCDC at merely key-ON impact current sensor calibration similar to how having a grid charger hooked-up and running at key-ON does?
My understanding is that the 'current sensors' are zeroed-out or whatever at zero load at key-ON, and if you have a grid charger connected and charging, the calibration of those sensors will be off - because it will treat say a 350mA current as zero current thereafter, so 'counting current' will be inaccurate...