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No pictures, but I thought I'd outline something I discovered, just in case someone wants to experiment.

The space occupied by the MPI ductwork can be reduced by inverting the middle plastic tube. The increased space is obtained by easily removing the largely worthless perforated exhaust "floor" piece, then letting the bulge in the tube intrude into the space below. The height can be reduced by maybe 1/2" more by heating and collapsing the tube intake end. The mounting bracket must be removed.

In most mounting methods, there will still be space for the rear battery or batteries to have adequate headroom.
 
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"batteries to have adequate headroom".....still trying to grasp that.
 

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Do you remove the whole perforated piece, or do you cut a hole in it?
I just took the whole thing out. I think you can gain a few fractions of an inch of space by doing that. With your frame mounting, it may not matter much, but with a plate mounting, every fraction of vertical space is needed. I also think That a few fractions of usable vertical clearance can be achieved by slightly "ovaling" the plastic tube at the MPI fan end. I'll post some pictures later.

This is all by way of planning for my V3.0 which I think will solve most of the remaining layout problems. A "stepped" plate will be needed to gain height for the exhaust tube in the rear, and a "dropped" mounting for the front battery - providing room on top for the BCM/MCM. The latter is weeks away.

Sorry Issac. First guy to mention it wins :LOL:
 
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I promised some pictures, so here we go.
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This is a picture of the MPI exhaust duct with the center plastic section inverted to put the huge "bump" on the bottom.

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This is the essentially useless perforated grill piece which one removes. Only way I could get it out was removing all the plastic attachments and the metal screws and bending the piece to work it out from under the 25mm rear battery support bar.

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The is an underneath shot of how the huge bulge in the vent tube now protrudes into the seemingly useless space just below the rear of the IPU case. From the picture, the 25mm battery mounting bar can now be seen to be well above the bulge
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This picture shows that with a 2" spacer between my mounting plate and the 25mm battery mounting bar, there is just barely space for the rubber offset tube to fit under the plate. Even then the rubber tube needs to be slightly rotated to lower the duct a fraction of an inch.
Clearance.jpg

This image shows that with the battery sitting on the plate and 2" spacer, there is still 1" of clearance between the top of the battery cover and the inside level of the cover. For precautions I intend to bond a thin layer of some sort of tough plastic insulation to the inside of the IPU cover.
 

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Now I am again getting curious about the possibility of an 84-cell conversion, maybe using Natalya's IPU box cutting technique, with the aluminum base-plate method, and no-cut to the MPI fan as seen in the gentleman's 84-cell conversion from InsightFest.
 

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This is the essentially useless perforated grill piece which one removes. Only way I could get it out was removing all the plastic attachments and the metal screws and bending the piece to work it out from under the 25mm rear battery support bar.
I removed that as well. :mad:

Be warned it has a stupid inaccessible plastic pop clip right in the left hand corner that I mangled as well as JIME.

Ideally you have to remove the MDM and the support bar so you can turn it upside down to get it off without mangling.

I chucked my one in the bin! I don't think bouncing parts in the wheel well are much of a potential issue.
 

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Be warned it has a stupid inaccessible plastic pop clip right in the left hand corner that I mangled as well as JIME.
You mangled both me and the pop clip. I never felt a thing :ROFLMAO:
 

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The perforated piece might be meant to prevent objects from inside the spare wheel area bouncing up into the IPU compartment.
Probably no bouncing issue, but there might be some slight danger of metal pieces finding their way in if the car had a roll over accident. I suppose one could reshape the perforated piece and pop rivit it into place below the section just front of the battery bar. Behind the battery bar, the area is so full of vent stuff that it is kinda hard to see anything coming through.

There are junction board terminals down below my plate, but they are protected by covers. Worthy of thought though.
 

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If you have a roll over accident, I think you would have other concerns that would take priority.
 

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Actually, I looked a bit more at the perforated plate. I think that it could be left in place if it were progressively cut away in the area of the tube bulge. One could mark the plate by the paint transfer method and cut away just enough to allow the bulge and parts of the off-set rubber tube to clear. Experiences will vary depending on the type of mechanical build.
 
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