I did that. I drove about 50 miles today and the engine check light did NOT come back on. That seems promising.
I will start looking at the air conditioning part of the service manual next.
My 2005 Insight has developed a noise, my mechanic thinks it's the manual transmission
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I will start looking at the air conditioning part of the service manual next.
When I drove the car last night I set the A/C to 60. That would normally be way too cold for me and it was not putting out cold air.
Verify that the AC clutch is working and turning on the AC. Can be seen from the top of the engine bay.
The AC clutch is not working.
From the service manual I tried to get the DTC by pressing AUTO and OFF at the same time, but the display switched off, so it did not display any code.
I was thinking again about when I replaced the passenger side motor mount. I did not think I caused an AC leak, unless it was silent and really slow. I was thinking maybe I forgot to plug something back in when I did the motor mount. I think I unplugged the AC pressure switch, so I took a look at that connector. Well, it was plugged in 180 degrees from the correct orientation. I tried plugging it in correctly and tried running the AC and it did not work.
Hmm, maybe I fried the AC pressure switch by plugging it in wrong. Or maybe I messed up something else connected to that circuit.
Go to a AC/Radiator shop and have them read the pressure if available.
I just scheduled my car for state inspection (over due now), front end alignment and to check the AC pressure, but that is a week from now as the shop is busy.
I am getting my car inspected tomorrow. Even though the car is overdue for inspection, last night I figured that I would add a few more miles on it to make sure that the car had been driven enough when the shop hooks up the OBDII for emissions inspection. I drove about 90 miles last night. The IMA charging and assist seemed to be working fine until I got about 20 minutes from home, then the IMA battery was only doing assist and not charging. By the time I got back to the house there was only 1 bar on the IMA battery level. I was thinking this doesn't look good.
But I took the car out for a 20 minute drive this morning and the charge was working again. When I got back to my house the IMA battery was up to full. Luckily no IMA light or engine check light came on during the drive last night. So I should be able to pass emissions inspection.
I figure I only want to drive it to the shop for inpection and not risk the IMA battery going down to nothing again as that might trigger the IMA light or engine check light.
But I suppose I after the car gets back from inspection that I should probably use the grid charger.
But I took the car out for a 20 minute drive this morning and the charge was working again. When I got back to my house the IMA battery was up to full. Luckily no IMA light or engine check light came on during the drive last night. So I should be able to pass emissions inspection.
I figure I only want to drive it to the shop for inpection and not risk the IMA battery going down to nothing again as that might trigger the IMA light or engine check light.
But I suppose I after the car gets back from inspection that I should probably use the grid charger.
Well I passed the PA state inspection, got a 4 wheel alignment and the air conditioner charged. The shop could not find a leak with the air conditioner, but the pressure was really low. I don't know what to think about that.
And now I think I will head off to the 2022 maintenance day tomorrow morning.
And now I think I will head off to the 2022 maintenance day tomorrow morning.
On my way to the maintenance day, my hood started shaking at highway speed. I thought I just had to go out and close it better, but it would not latch.
After I got back home, I found the small spring had fallen off.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Bumper]()
I put it back on and then aligned the latch. Now the hood is staying latched.
Unfortunately on my way home, the IMA and engine check lights came back on again. Luckily the car passed inspection yesterday.
Now I need to find the instructions for my grid charger...
After I got back home, I found the small spring had fallen off.
I put it back on and then aligned the latch. Now the hood is staying latched.
Unfortunately on my way home, the IMA and engine check lights came back on again. Luckily the car passed inspection yesterday.
Now I need to find the instructions for my grid charger...
I got around to using my Prolong charger/discharger.
I have take the car out a few times since then.
Last night I did the longest drive so far, about an hour out, another 20 minutes to another location and then about an hour back home. The IMA continued to assist and charge the whole time, so maybe I am back to normal.
I was out driving yesterday and it seemed like the brake pedal was getting lower. If I pumped the brakes it went back up to normal level. When I parked the car at home, I checked the brake fluid level and it looked ok. Well it seems there is yet something else to fix. I think I will just call my local mechanic on Monday to have the brakes checked, unless there are some quick things I should check out first.
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What color and how old is the brake fluid? You said the level was fine, but is there definitely no sign of leaks anywhere?
If you can, put the car in the air and have someone pump the brakes while you investigate underneath. If you don't see anything, let your mechanic figure it out from there.
If you can, put the car in the air and have someone pump the brakes while you investigate underneath. If you don't see anything, let your mechanic figure it out from there.
My mechanic checked out the brakes last week. It seems there was something with rust that caused one of the brake pads to get stuck against the driver's side rotor and wore the rotor out. The mechanic replaced both front rotors and pads as well as lubritcating the caliper slides.
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1,248 Posts
Things of note:
You really don't need that extension piece.
It's better to have the valve body clocked between the 10 and 3 o-clock positions. Sometimes we use a regular crush washer instead of the supplied fiber washer for exactly this reason.
If you happen to have one of Scott's one piece aluminum belly panels, the valve body will wear a hole in the aluminum.
You really don't need that extension piece.
It's better to have the valve body clocked between the 10 and 3 o-clock positions. Sometimes we use a regular crush washer instead of the supplied fiber washer for exactly this reason.
If you happen to have one of Scott's one piece aluminum belly panels, the valve body will wear a hole in the aluminum.
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2,484 Posts
@Bull Dog is spot on for catching this and another reason is so that the valve does not protrude below the oil pan where something could catch it and damage or shear it.
I lost my regular belly panel while driving in the snow. If I decide to get one of Scott's belly pan's then I would change it.
Well that sounds like more of a concern. Perhaps next oil change I will try to change it so it is pointed differently.
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