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^ I think 19mm is the largest you need for most things Insight. I wouldn't bother with a big socket set, just get a single.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Well, it took over 6 weeks for Home Depot to finally get me all 3 boxes for my quickjack. Over the weekend, I put the quickjack together and got my car up in the air.

Automotive tire Wood Rim Gas Bumper


It was suggested that I check to see if my mechanic attached the lower transmission mount correctly. I got a picture of it. It looks like it is on straight.

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It looks like I have plenty of room to crawl under the car. Quickjack says I should always use auxiliary jack stands for safety, so I got a couple of jack stands and put them under the quickjack.

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I supose I should have tried grabbing the lower transmission mount and see if it is loose when I was under the car yesterday afternoon.

Someone suggested that it could be the cv joints as opposed to the transmission input shaft bearing. Is there some way that I could test to see if it is either one of those?
 

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The passenger (starboard) side looks to have negative camber issues to wear the tire like that. Something up w/ the strut or control arms?
 

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...It was suggested that I check to see if my mechanic attached the lower transmission mount correctly. I got a picture of it. It looks like it is on straight.
I can't tell from the pic, bad angle and lighting. But if it looks "straight" to you in person it's probably fine. Check the 'arms' in the center, the alignment of the aluminum housing versus the to-body attachment bolt holes (and any 'witness' marks from previous placement), and look at the rubber centers in the front mounts. There shouldn't be any obvious distortion in these things - kinking, twists, stuff should look centered, etc...

I briefly skimmed the rest of this thread. People have mentioned possibly bad CV joint/s. Looking at your pics of the axles, they look pretty rusty and crusty. You asked whether there were something else you should be doing/buying during all this, and I think it might be worth buying new axles. They're not very expensive, about $170 for both (rockauto), and the right aftermarket replacements - "TrakMotives," at least - are beefier, stiffer, and make a pretty big differences in the rigidity between wheels and transmission. Here's a link to where people have talked about that: Got a manual trans G-1? get rid of the wimpy axles...
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I can't tell from the pic, bad angle and lighting. But if it looks "straight" to you in person it's probably fine. Check the 'arms' in the center, the alignment of the aluminum housing versus the to-body attachment bolt holes (and any 'witness' marks from previous placement), and look at the rubber centers in the front mounts. There shouldn't be any obvious distortion in these things - kinking, twists, stuff should look centered, etc...

I briefly skimmed the rest of this thread. People have mentioned possibly bad CV joint/s. Looking at your pics of the axles, they look pretty rusty and crusty. You asked whether there were something else you should be doing/buying during all this, and I think it might be worth buying new axles. They're not very expensive, about $170 for both (rockauto), and the right aftermarket replacements - "TrakMotives," at least - are beefier, stiffer, and make a pretty big differences in the rigidity between wheels and transmission. Here's a link to where people have talked about that: Got a manual trans G-1? get rid of the wimpy axles...
OK. I think I looked at the price of the Honda ones a while ago and they were much more expensive. If I can get better ones for $170, that sounds like I should order a set of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
So is there anything here that would indicate that the problem is the cv joints versus the input shaft bearing in the transmission? Someone suggested that I use a stethoscope to check. How would I do that?
 

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Insight axle CV joints basically don't fail or wear out on their own.

In the land of no rust, the only thing I've seen kill Insight axles is when the inner joint gets over extended and subsequently isn't put back together properly.
Mood. I have seen other cars axles fail internally with no visible signs from the outside(as I said in another post, I replaced a S80 V8 axle recently) but never an insight. 50k, 500k, doesn't matter, it just doesn't seem to happen. Honda reliability really gets me sometimes.
 

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It doesn't seem likely, or even possible, but when I was looking at the images of the axles earlier I was thinking they looked pretty rusty, and knowing that people have reported broken axles, especially the passenger side under the 'rubber donut', and that new aftermarket ones are beefier and stiffer, and that the OEMs have a lot of flex even when fine - made me think the noise could be due to extra flexing in the axle itself, maybe even onset of failure. Just seems like if one of those go, though - they go, there wouldn't be any intermediate period... Plus as I recall your noise was persistent, regular, rhythmic, if it were 'axle fatigue' seems like it'd more likely be an intermittent, on-and-off stress kind of noise...
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Insight axle CV joints basically don't fail or wear out on their own.

In the land of no rust, the only thing I've seen kill Insight axles is when the inner joint gets over extended and subsequently isn't put back together properly.
It seems that changing the cv axles and changing the clutch are just extra things to do, but the noise seems to be saying transmission rebuild. So I should just contact you about doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I ordered a Luk clutch kit from rockauto. The picture on their site did not match what I received. It showed an Exedy with 3 bearing included. The Luk kit is not Exedy and came with 1 bearing. It was cheap enough. I will order the other bearings.



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