[Bull Dog]

Try popping it off with a small screwdriver.

 

[FadedBlue]

Well this video is helpful.

 

[FadedBlue]

Pop off white cover, pry up pin with pick and pull out wire with pliers.

 

[FadedBlue]

It looks like the pin and blue piece are crimped on the wire.

I tried testing the wire from the exposed part of where the red insulation is broken to the pin and I got 0.00 resistance. Hmm, well it is not good to have expose wire like that, but if the connection is intact on the red wire, then I am confused.

 

[julianachos]

If you need a hand during the week, I'm down to help.

I visit my friends in Pottstown and Audubon often from Newark, so you're not out of the way.

 

[Bull Dog]

The blue piece is the weather seal and yes it is crimped on. It's possible that one or more of the receptacles are damaged internally.

If so, this would lead to intermittent failure as it isn't making good contact with the mating pin.

 

[FadedBlue]

If you need a hand during the week, I'm down to help.

I visit my friends in Pottstown and Audubon often from Newark, so you're not out of the way.

Thanks for offering to help. I am hoping that I am just down to getting out a soldering iron or a crimping tool to fix the wiring, so I am not sure that an extra set of hands will help at this point in time.

Also during the week I tend to be busy into the evenings with work. So you might notice that my slowwwww progress on the car is that I usually work on it on weekends and I usually have a lot going on weekends too.

 

[FadedBlue]

The blue piece is the weather seal and yes it is crimped on. It's possible that one or more of the receptacles are damaged internally.

If so, this would lead to intermittent failure as it isn't making good contact with the mating pin.

I noticed the core transmission is getting delayed again on its trip back to you by UPS. I guess you will get it on Tuesday now.

Well if I crushed the connector good with my pliers trying to get the connector off while it was still attached to the post, that might explain things.

Since I was thinking the red wire was probaby still intact with just some insulation missing, I was starting to worry about the situation that I forgot to remove a wire harness bolt when I was lowering the transmission. The bolt that I forgot to take off is the one that holds the connection for the transmission neutral switch. The transmission neutral switch was unplugged, but the weight of the transmission was pulling down on the wiring harness at that point. So the weight of the transmission was pulling down on the same branch of the wire harness that includes the IMA connector that I damaged. Hopefully I didn't damage more of the wiring harness than just the IMA connector. Well the air conditioning stopped working too, so maybe I did mess up more of the wiring harness than just the IMA connector.

 

[FadedBlue]

In the mean time I was thinking about the loose ground connection. I have some generic ground cables now. I just ordered the official Honda ground cables, some new screws and one of the platstic clips that holds the clutch line that broke during disassembly. If the new screw still does not hold the ground strap to the bracket well, I will probably just drill a bigger hole in the bracket and use a larger bolt with a nut to hold the strap down tight.

 

[FadedBlue]

Yes, that white secondary retainer comes off.

Do you want me to check my wire harness box for a set of spare commutation sensor wires?

Did you find a set of spare commutation sensor wires?

 

[FadedBlue]

I got some stuff in the mail while I was away last week.

The used commutation sensor connector was from Bull Dog.

Unfortunately I don't have time to work on the car today.

 

[FadedBlue]

Well today I got around to soldering the used connector in and installing the new official Honda ground straps. But I still have the IMA light.

 

[FadedBlue]

 

[FadedBlue]

You can see the IMA light is back on. Initially the red battery light was on too. But it went out after I drove the car for a few minutes.

I stopped in my driveway and answered a phone call with the car idling. While I was on the call, most of the dash lights went out. I did see a ESP or EPS red light came on. Then the engine stalled. I had to jump start the car to get it started again. I drove it around for a few more minutes, the red battery light was out from the jump start, but came back on for a while, but then went back out again after some more driving. I put the car back in the garage for now. I suppose I broke something else during the transmission swap, but what did I break?

 

[FadedBlue]

I suppose I could drive over to my mechanic and get him to read the codes again in case the codes are different now?

Actually maybe I should get my own device to read the codes. I guess the best one to get is the Insight G1 OBDII C&C from retepsnikrep?

 

[FadedBlue]

Guess what I didn't do... and it is NOT a step in the service manual when installing the transmission.

There is something under all this stuff.

\

There should be a step 22A.

The IMA light is OUT! Well you can't see it in the picture below, but trust me, it is OUT!

 

[julianachos]

Interesting find on the manual bit.

When I work on cars with steps like such, I write a note on the window (usually on a piece of blue painter's tape) reminding myself I disconnected this, etc. then stick it on the door window, quarter glass, or windshield - essentially anywhere that will be very noticeable. Glad to see the IMA light is now off!

 

[FadedBlue]

Interesting find on the manual bit.

When I work on cars with steps like such, I write a note on the window (usually on a piece of blue painter's tape) reminding myself I disconnected this, etc. then stick it on the door window, quarter glass, or windshield - essentially anywhere that will be very noticeable. Glad to see the IMA light is now off!

I tried to be organized. I was putting small parts in envelopes and marking the envelopes with page and step number from the removal steps. That was helpful when putting things back together.

This morning I was thinking that there must be some thing I missed, like forgetting to plug in a connector. But it seemed that I plugged them all back in. Then I was thinking I should go back over the removal steps in the manual to see what I could have missed on the re-install steps. And without even going back over the manual it occrurred to me that probably the first thing I did was turn off the IMA high voltage switch. And then I thought, it is unlikely that I switched that back on as I had a bunch of tools and stuff in the cargo area.

Well it is a relief that I just had to throw the switch because I wasn't sure what to do next.

Hmm, I should have checked if the Air Conditioning was working this morning, but when I took the car out this morning it was not hot enough outside to tell. I will check that later, but there is always the chance that I broke the Air Conditioner when replacing the passenger side motor mount with stuff I had to move out of the way. I am kind of hoping that Air Conditioner does not work when IMA switch is off and will work again with the IMA switch on (but that is probably just wishful thinking).

 

[FadedBlue]

I ran some errands with the car last night. I drove about 25 miles but the engine check light was still on when I parked the car. If I am just hoping for that to clear after driving a while, how far would I expect to drive before it goes off?

On the other hand, it seemed like when I was driving on the highway that the IMA battery was running about half charge, but driving on other roads allowed it to reach full charge. Maybe the battery is not charging properly. In that case maybe I should try using my grid charger?

And it seems that air conditioner is not working. I looked under the hood. I could see pulley spinning, but the front face of the pulley was not spinning, so I guess the a/c clutch is not engaging.

 

[Bull Dog]

Disconnect the 12v battery for 30 seconds.