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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After more than a month of prep and a two day install marathon it is in and running. The goals for this project:

1. DIY
2. Keep stock airbox
3. Maintain most of the stock exhaust system (to keep car quiet)
4. Boost power for hills, passing, etc
5. Ultimate winter hot air kit
6. Keep it close to $1000 (not including my own labor)
7. 5 - 7 psi target
8. No Intercooler

First observations. Hesitation is gone even with little to no boost. At idle the turbo blows enough air to help the little engine perform better from the start. Seat of the pants dyno says there is a noticeable power increase, but I'm not sure how much boost I'm getting atm as the digital boost gauge still needs to be installed. That should happen tomorrow. I haven't pushed the car very hard or for very long since I need to know the boost levels. Atm the wastegate is set at the minimum setting (low psi), but I don;t even know if it is activating, and the BOV is also set at a low level. Again I haven't heard it it, so don't know if enough boost is being generated to activate it.

The idea for implementation came primarily from Drew (aka RHD Insight). he was initially going to provide me with the exhaust manifold adapter, a down pipe, and hotpipe. After waiting over a year I only got the manifold adapter. It had to be shortened to make room for the turbo, guessing this is a difference in RHD cars. I also rotated the turbo 45 degrees with the exhaust port angled down, his install was flat. I also tipped mine forward so it is on a level forward plane. It can be seen on the attached pic. Another departure from his design was use of a GT12 turbo, RHDInsight used a GT15. The GT12 is the smallest Turbo Garrett makes and is physically the same size as the GT15 with smaller turbines. My hope is that this turbo will be more responsive (less turbo lag).

Garrett GT12 - GT1241 - 130 HP ✈ Turbocharger Specs

Essentially a simple system with no intercooler and no 4th injector. To compensate the a12:1 FMU was installed to boost fuel pressure as boost increases. The turbo has an oil as well as coolant feeds. Both are hooked up and seem to be working properly.

Garrett GT1241 Turbo $657.97
Oil Flange $32.25
2.25 to 1.5 silicone $16.97
O2 bung $3.95
Heater hose tee $17.98
2.25 to 2.0 silicone $7.64
2.00 90 degree X2 $17.98
2 to 2.5 silicone $8.88
1.75 to 2 silicone $7.00
Oil pressure tee adapter $9.98
12:1 FMU $54.05
2.25 Type S Flange Pipe $12.99
Type S adjustable BOV $19.99
2" X 2' Aluminum tubing $45.00
misc clamps, tubing, $60.00
25" X 1.5" Flex intake $15.00
Other misc supplies $100.00
$1,087.63


I'll post more pictures and observations as they happen.

edit: 12:1 FMU verified suitable into the 5psi range
edit of edit: FMU is gone, replaced with 4th injector and injector controller ~$250
Also added dedicated wideband AF Ratio gauge ~$160
 

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Discussion Starter #4
83 mpg for 14 miles on the way to work this morning. Average speed ~45 mph, hilly, ~ 40F. The intake temp probe isn't installed in the hotpipe yet, so I'm not sure what the intake temps look like, but the 'Frankenstein' adapter that mounts on the throttle body intake was only warm to the touch. Noticeably more pull on small hills in 3rd gear. I could accelerate quite well without mima assist.

For the turbo experts .... when in first and 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, the rpms quickly ramp to ~3500 rpm then jump even more quickly to ~5000 rpm. Is this 'surge' caused by lack of fuel? It only seems to happen in 1st gear. It happens so quickly the car can redline in less than 2 seconds from start.

Two pics attached
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
One other note, I have a pending P01165. Seems to be related to MAF sensor. Any input? No other codes otherwise and no check engine lights.




edit: Nm, Willie had already posted about this code http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/23144-p1165-code.html

Additional info, the cats have been deleted, the 1st o2 sensor is directly after the turbo, the secondary o2 sensor is another 3 - 4 inches down and is installed in two stacked spark plug defowlers to remove it from exhaust flow similar to this http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=37&topic=58237;prev_next=next
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is being used for tuning? How do you know that your air fuel ratios are good?
Short of watching primary o2 sensor values, nothing. The 12:1 FMU is the only addition on the fuel side. Btw, target for max boost is 5 psi which should be doable with stock fuel injectors + FMU.
 

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I'd recommend at the least an air/fuel gauge just to keep an eye on things. many an engine have been blown up with a bad tune. Or something like the OBDC&C which shows the actual primary o2 sensor values.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I'd recommend at the least an air/fuel gauge just to keep an eye on things. many an engine have been blown up with a bad tune. Or something like the OBDC&C which shows the actual primary o2 sensor values.
I have an ultra gauge and currently watch:

Engine Temp
Intake temp
o2 primary
o2 Secondary
Timing Advance

The problem with advanced tuning for our car is that there are no pop in chips, or flashes available. The only other option would be a 4th injector and a controller, but those controllers are very pricey. The other option is DIY like Willies system. RHDInsight says he is or was running a 4th injector, but after looking back over all the pics I took of his system I can't find it. He even told me in the last conversation the 12:1 FMU would be adequate for upto 5 psi.
 

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Subscribed. This is going to be good stuff! :D
 

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How about the Apexi VAFC units?

I guess the wideband lambda as standard does help part load cruise get to stoich or LB as Honda intended.
 

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For the turbo experts .... when in first and 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, the rpms quickly ramp to ~3500 rpm then jump even more quickly to ~5000 rpm. Is this 'surge' caused by lack of fuel? It only seems to happen in 1st gear. It happens so quickly the car can redline in less than 2 seconds from start.

Two pics attached
I'm not really a turbo expert, but it almost sounds like you're experiencing wheel spin? Maybe not.

Be careful! :D If you think it's a lack of fuel, pull a spark plug and check it out. If the ceramic is white, back off until you get things tuned!

Maybe 3500RPM is the point where boost kicks in full?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not really a turbo expert, but it almost sounds like you're experiencing wheel spin? Maybe not.

Be careful! :D If you think it's a lack of fuel, pull a spark plug and check it out. If the ceramic is white, back off until you get things tuned!

Maybe 3500RPM is the point where boost kicks in full?
Not wheel spin, just a sudden increase in rpms and increase in acceleration, but with the low first gear it is of a very short duration. And I totally understand the checking the plugs for color, came from years of snowmobiling.
 

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83 mpg for 14 miles on the way to work this morning. Average speed ~45 mph, hilly, ~ 40F. The intake temp probe isn't installed in the hotpipe yet, so I'm not sure what the intake temps look like, but the 'Frankenstein' adapter that mounts on the throttle body intake was only warm to the touch. Noticeably more pull on small hills in 3rd gear. I could accelerate quite well without mima assist.

For the turbo experts .... when in first and 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, the rpms quickly ramp to ~3500 rpm then jump even more quickly to ~5000 rpm. Is this 'surge' caused by lack of fuel? It only seems to happen in 1st gear. It happens so quickly the car can redline in less than 2 seconds from start.

Two pics attached
Your "surge" is just the turbo spooling up quickly and hitting the engine's natural torque peak. The VTEC is probably helping with this. My two turbo Miatas do the same thing. This is why I really like turbos!

You DO NOT want to let it to go lean under any boost condition. I burned a valve in a previous turbo Miata because of this. The fuel was controlled by an FMU like yours, with an aux fuel pump top provide the additional pressure. The aux pump had failed, I didn't know it, and it went lean. The car ran fine right up to the time it lost one cylinder. This made me a real believer of the importance of knowing your AFRs. Guessing and hoping that it's ok like you're doing now is just an invitation for an expensive failure.

Your installation looks very nice. I am very interested in this project. I bought the low mile Citrus below with the plan to turbo it, after I got a ride with Willie. He is an evil person.

Please keep us posted!

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
So, is the voltage value from the primary O2 sensor directly related to A/F?

I know the low voltage range to look for when in lean burn, which should be ~20:1 through ~26:1. As long there is boost am I safe as long as the voltage is higher, say the same as under idle?

Edit: looks like this is the case, so I have a few options, watch that voltage closely to ensure it isn't dropping during boost, or as another option http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html


Come to think of it I have a A/F ratio kit for detecting lean burn that I can assemble and install. Funny how projects get backlogged and forgotten. It is this kit: http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Monitoring-Factory-Oxygen-Sensors-Part-2/A_110625/article.html All the more reason to assemble it and get it installed. In the meantime I will watch the primary O2 sensor voltage under boost.



From the bottom of the linked article, though our car most likely scales differently:

LED 10 - 0.97V - 12.1:1 - Very Rich - Forced induction and nitrous. you might want to be around here. (All LEDs on)
LED 9 - 0.88V - 12.7:1
LED 8 - 0.78V - 13.2:1
LED 7 - 0.69V - 13.8:1
LED 6 - 0.59V - 14.4:1
LED 5 - 0.49V - 14.9:1 - (Stoich- pretty close to 15:1, this is where NA motors should be at)
LED 4 - 0.39V - 15.4:1
LED 3 - 0.30V - 16.0:1
LED 2 - 0.20V - 16.5:1
LED 1 - 0.10V - 17.1:1 - Lean (The only LED on)
 

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I normally see ~21:1 or so when in lean burn. It doesn't change much. Lowest I've seen is around 20:1, and highest is 22:1. That doesn't really matter much for this discussion though.

You'll want the AFR down around 12:1 during boost.

Watching the knock sensor output could be pertinent too.
 

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If you want to get crazy, you might be able to use a DIY engine management solution like Megasquirt for a fully tunable ECU.

VAFC/Neo might work to control fuel/timing, although I am not sure if they have an insight application.

Also note that the computer doesn't like seeing positive boost pressure, so you might end up getting a CEL if the psi is pretty high. In fact, I'm kind of surprised you haven't gotten one yet.

I just don't want to see an engine go boom :) Hope this project progresses well! Someone needs to market a turbo exhaust manifold for us :)
 

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I think something like the Megasquirt is out of the question because it wouldn't be able to do lean burn? For starters.. You'd also lose auto-stop, etc, etc... :(
 
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