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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I found a very nice late model Gen1 with the IMA light on. Codes are U0101 and P1648.

I haven't started to dig into it yet, but I was wondering if anyone could provide any information that will help with finding the issue.

Thanks in advance, I can't wait to get it going right.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Try this useful spreadsheet. Lots of good stuff other than codes there


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bLUyuFXWywH0PIzTXYtT6UprBNkOtjnWh5PFKjDFylA/pubhtml
Thank you, that was fantastic information!

I found that the IMA had been bypassed. I hooked it back up and the check engine light and IMA light went away.

The battery charges and held the charge well with the assist engaging. The only time I had a slight issue was after climbing a narrow, steep hill. After climbing it(1/4 mile), the battery was down to 4 bars and the 12v battery light came on.

Before I could turn around to head back, the 12v light went off, then a few minutes later the battery charged up a bit and the assist resumed operation. Never stopped going.

Maybe the battery? I'll test them and check out the BCM and MCM aswell.

Also, the A/C doesn't work with the IMA bypassed. Learning alot!

I'm going to check the mpg on a longer drive, also. I don't know if the readout is accurate. If it is, I'm struggling to get 43-46 tops.

Thanks again, I'm enjoying it.
 

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Thank you, that was fantastic information!

I found that the IMA had been bypassed. I hooked it back up and the check engine light and IMA light went away.
It was bypassed for a reason, most likely by the prior owner because the IMA battery is bad. Fact that the 12V battery light came on is additional indication.

Check your grounds. Use google custom search bar, top left, to search on grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you, that was fantastic information!

I found that the IMA had been bypassed. I hooked it back up and the check engine light and IMA light went away.
It was bypassed for a reason, most likely by the prior owner because the IMA battery is bad. Fact that the 12V battery light came on is additional indication.

Check your grounds. Use google custom search bar, top left, to search on grounds.
Yes, I plan on checking the batteries and grounds tomorrow. If those are indeed what are bad, I'll probably try my hand at refreshing the battery.

Off topic, but who's idea was it to omit grab handles above the doors, this car is LOW.
Comfortable seats once you're in, though.
 

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Yes, I plan on checking the batteries and grounds tomorrow. If those are indeed what are bad, I'll probably try my hand at refreshing the battery.

Off topic, but who's idea was it to omit grab handles above the doors, this car is LOW.
Comfortable seats once you're in, though.
Yes, that was overlooked iin the design. Re: MPG. If you do not have the Bridgestone RE92's on the car you are giving up about 5 MPG. Vredestein, the Dutch tire manufacturer, makes low rolling resistance tires, too. I believe some on the board have tried them. Next set for me will be Vredestein: they last longer.
 

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Yes, that was overlooked iin the design. Re: MPG. If you do not have the Bridgestone RE92's on the car you are giving up about 5 MPG. Vredestein, the Dutch tire manufacturer, makes low rolling resistance tires, too. I believe some on the board have tried them. Next set for me will be Vredestein: they last longer.
I am running Federal Formoza FD2 @ 155/65R14 on the front and almost gone RE92s on the back. I have not noticed a difference in handling, but the car seems quieter and seems to grip fine. The mileage, I can't say because I've been sorting out other mileage-impacting issues at the same time. Actually, @jime drove it recently and can speak a little about this, but he wasn't trying to test its handling.

The price for the Formozas is $35/tire at Walmart. I went with them after reading that someone else here was happy with them, and that they seemed to get ok to good reviews, and they are so inexpensive that they are worth trying as an experiment.

I have two more Formozas at home and will be putting them on when the other RE92s are finished, or when I get two extra rims (missed my opportunity recently from a wreck at a junkyard.) My car is quiet in the front, so I wonder what will happen when I put these on the back (maybe I should just rotate them.)

If you say that 50000 miles is the tire lifetime, and get the tires at the cheapest possible price (about $92 for the RE92s, $35 for the FD2) a five MPG difference ends up with pretty much no cost differential (fuel + tires) over the life of the tires. However I think the FD2s may last longer than the RE92s. The speedometer will read higher than actual, but that's OK with me, driving a red car that seems to want to zip past the speed limit before I notice it has done so.
 

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This is just me speaking. I have had Chinese tires before and they were hardly more than rim protectors. I had them put on at Les Schwab. They were on a Dodge diesel 3/4 ton truck. They cost more than the equivalent Michelins and lasted less than 15,000 miles. Michelin was guaranteed for 30K, maybe 50K, IIRC, but Costco did not have them in stock. I'm just not willing to buy tires from other than an old, established tire manufacturer. YMMV. The RE92's are the only other non-Michelins I have bought since about 1968. I have never had premature wear or tire failure with Michelin. The RE92's are good so far.

I agree about the costing out the price against the mileage. It's a valid argument. But I'm going with the herd on this one until the RE92's wear out. Then the Vredesteins. I think tires come up for contentious discussion now and again. Just some of the fun of being on the board.

Whatever you do, though, just keep enjoying that car. They are wonderful. You get one helluva lot of bang for your buck and get to own a very interesting and rare auto to boot.

PS: I never mix radials. Always the same tires all the way around.
 

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Thanks for the replies everyone.

I've checked the grounds, which appear fine. It's raining, so I'm being a bit lazy right now(electricity and all)...

I did take it out for a little jaunt and finally received a new code. P1575. Thoughts?

If it ever dries up, I'll take some readings and check the 100a junction fuse. I know it's probably the batteries, but I want to make sure it's not something stupid before I tear into the battery pack.

One other thing, the car has started driving much better. Assist will go to full power and battery is charging and discharging normally. It doesn't shudder anymore when taking off faster than a crawl.

I like this little car a lot, even with the CVT. I may start looking for a manual with battery problems.

Again, HUGE thank you for the kindness you guys have shown!
 

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You need to come by a copy of the 2000-2006 Insight Service Manual. They frequently come up for sale on eBay. If you are going to try to resolve problems with a current day Gen 1, you need some reference material. On-line help is sometimes helpful, but spotty (The knowing may not respond.),largely unreliable and sometimes flat out wrong.

I can tell you what the codes mean, but you can find that information just by putting the code into a google search. How to resolve the code is the real issue. For that you will find 2-3 pages of detailed trouble shooting steps in the Service Manual.

If you put the codes in the IC google custom search bar, it will give likely give you several thread from others who have been through IC efforts to resolve the same codes.

I've been here a long time and I have detected a definite weariness among the older members to participate in diagnostic efforts which go on for days. The problems are frequently repeats of the same problem already covered by threads in the archive which could be covered by a little searching.
 

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For example, when I put "P1575" in the google custom search bar, top left, I get 23 threads which have "P1575" in the summary. For me at least, come back when you have checked those 23 threads and found no help - or buy the Service Manual. Sorry, but we are all weary of new members whose first post is "Help me with this code."

Most of the knowledgable aren't responding much. There's a message there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I apologize if I offended anyone, I will change the title and make it a discussion.

I had searched this website(and internet) thoroughly, but nothing seemed to match my issue exactly. Jimes, your link was a fantastic help for some of the diagnostic procedures. Fortunately, I am pretty good at troubleshooting.

As an update; All the check lights have went off and everything seems to be operating properly, as far as the batteries are concerned. The only issue I have been able to find is a juttering on take off. The engine mounts aren't in that bad of shape, no breaks or tears that I can see. I'll check them closer when I do the CVT fluid change later today.

I'm also going to burnish the starter clutch to see if that helps with the juttering. It may be both.

Took it for an 80+ mile shake down yesterday and turned out 48 indicated MPG, 43 actual. $5 in gas to fill it back up. Better than the 16-18 I get on average from my Lexus.

This car was purchased on the cheap with low mileage, intended to be a flip. I'm having second thoughts about that now, it is a very nice car.
Never have I had so much fun going slow.
Infact, if I can find a clean manual version with battery problems for cheap enough, I'm going to buy another.

Keep an eye out in the Chattanooga/North Ga. area, future insightings to be had!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update: CVT Fluid change and clutch burnishing has fixed the judder. Car seems to be running flawlessly, I will take it out later and confirm.
 

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I agree about falling in love with the cars. I was interested and only mildly enthusiastic when I got my G1 manual. But the funny thing is that the more I drive it the better it got. Or at least that is how it seemed. I admit that both Scott (KLR3CYL) and Sam (RAINSUX) have passed their capable hands over the wee beast and that helps a lot. But to be honest I was having fun before they got ahold of it. Now I am having fun and feeling better about the reliability.

I did a west coast - east coast round trip and a NW Oregon - SoCal round trip in the car and it never missed a beat. I never dreamt that saving money could be so much fun. I expect you will have similar experiences.
 

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Great. You need to get a IMA grid charging operation going asap. The life of IMA batteries can frequently be extended. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can build your own. I don't recall any recent builds, but there are several older ones.

Here is a relevant thread. Olrowdy has a build on his own site, address in his signature:

https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/honda-insight-forum-1st-gen-discussion/74410-olrowdy01-grid-charger-discharger-3.html
If his 12V charging is shutting down, the battery is likely too far gone to be manageable with a grid charger. A new battery will solve all the problems (including the P1575). Otherwise he should bypass it again and just live without the AC. The mileage doesn’t sound too much out of whack for a CVT, bad battery, new driver and wrong tires.
 

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Great. You need to get a IMA grid charging operation going asap. The life of IMA batteries can frequently be extended. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can build your own. I don't recall any recent builds, but there are several older ones.

Here is a relevant thread. Olrowdy has a build on his own site, address in his signature:

https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/honda-insight-forum-1st-gen-discussion/74410-olrowdy01-grid-charger-discharger-3.html
If his 12V charging is shutting down, the battery is likely too far gone to be manageable with a grid charger. A new battery will solve all the problems (including the P1575). Otherwise he should bypass it again and just live without the AC. The mileage doesn’t sound too much out of whack for a CVT, bad battery, new driver and wrong tires.
The 12v seems to be charging fine, but the battery pack is definitely long in the tooth. It worked fine for several days, but today on my way home the IMA light came on and all charging(not 12v) and assist stopped working. It threw a P0a7f code which apparently is a deteriorated battery.

I'm going to have to decide whether to refurbish the battery I have or do a Lithium upgrade.

Fun times ahead!
 
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