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Discussion Starter #1
I got a really good deal on a 2000 Insight a few weeks ago, after searching for one locally for a couple months. Seller wasn’t mechanically inclined(more on that later), thought the clutch was out. Got it home, bled/replaced clutch fluid and drives great. I’ve been trying to learn a lot of the hybrid stuff as I searched for a car, but it’s still new to me. IMA light was on, but after disconnecting negative battery cable it would stay off for a day or two, with normal assist/charge function during that time.

Fast Fwd to the other day, car was driving great down the highway and just shut off. Wouldn’t start with jumping from my truck on the IMA or 12v so I towed it home. The IMA light came on when I started that drive cycle, and drained all the way down. Hoping that’s the issue.

First issues discovered:
-CEL bulb is either removed or burnt out.
-Only CEL active is P0113 IAT sensor. IAT sensor connector harness has been modified with wires spliced in, but a wire was hanging out of the connector.
-Ground wire snapped at the firewall when I removed the connector from 12v battery, so I’m guessing the wires were pretty brittle and can’t help the case.
-when trying to start on 12V, engine turns over, nothing out of the ordinary, but isn’t even trying to fire.
-when trying to start on IMA, it makes a terrible “clacking” sound, if you will.
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-12v battery checks out fine, no issues with dim lights or power, scan tool passes it on inspection.
-Fixed IAT sensor issue, no longer shows up in data, but can’t start it either, so won’t know 100% until that can happen.

-engine oil/coolant don’t look out of the ordinary

-no major oil leaks that weren’t there when I bought the car.

-all 3 spark plugs are B, and have been torqued to 17ft lbs upon reinstall.

-compression test will prob be done later this evening, it’s my next step in the process unless someone points to something otherwise.
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Also, car came with a grid charger. It has a multimeter to display voltage, but the display won’t come on...no idea what I’m getting with that. Has the brake/clutch switch mod as well, and I’m sure there’s other things done to it that I haven’t come across yet.
 

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If your 12V battery cable is broken, then I'm pretty sure that your engine electronics (ECM) doesn't have a complete power circuit. Fact you can turn over the engine with a jump might not be relevant. Buy a cheap 12V ground cable first and see where that gets you. You gotta have one anyway. That alone may be source of many of your problems;)

Ordinarily, a really bad IMA battery will allow the 12V battery to discharge since the dc-dc convert, which runs of the IMA battery, can't charge the 12V. This obviously causes the 12V to lose charge until the car stalls.
 

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Welcome!

I hope I'm wrong, but a sudden engine shutdown + "clacking" when trying to start makes me wonder if you have a broken camshaft. I'd do the compression test before going any deeper.
 
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Jime is right, you will need to fix the battery ground to make the 12V battery work correctly. There are several other engine compartment ground wires that you'll want to check as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I should’ve specified, I have replaced the negative cable already, and it made no difference.

My first thought for some reason was the engine was kaput, but the fact that there was no glitter on the dipstick at least made me feel better. The cam turns over with the crank as well, so that’s a positive. Compression check is def needed, so glad that thought is echoed.
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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Looks like you sheared the locating pin for the cam.
Cam timing is off. Locating pin will be at tdc for number 1 cyl.
Set Cam Timing.JPG

Check here:
84042
 

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Discussion Starter #9
-Compression was at 0psi across the board last night. Watched the gauge as I cranked 12v starter, the needle didn’t even fluctuate.

-drained oil and dropped oil pan. Oil had some very very fine flakes in it. When I saw flakes, I mean more like almost dust. Nothing out of the ordinary in oil pan(chunks of metal etc).

-engine turns over freely with no odd noises(Turning by hand with small 1/4” ratchet on crank pulley). No visible damage to pistons/rods/crank. Oddly enough, even with the alignment key sheared off of the cam/cam gear, timing still checks out.

correct me if I’m wrong here
-I don’t have a “white line” on the crank pulley. I have a single line that is lined up with #1 piston being tdc, and every other revolution the cam gear has the line with a “1” under it, nearly perfectly horizontal. If this is the case, then timing can’t be off more than a tooth or so at most, according to the alignment of cam gear/crank pulley. I’m still trying to find the spot on the cam where the key would’ve been, to see if the cam gear/shaft are still in sync.

I think my next step is pulling the head to check for valve damage and total head gasket blowout.

Any ideas?
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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If it is off a tooth, it will not run. Remove the camshaft nut and you should see the pin groove at TDC .#1.
Just checked and you can't see the pin. You will see a small indexing circle. That is where the groove is located.
It should be at TDC also with #1 cyl. at TDC.
IIRR, in your picture, the pin will be where the "small groove" is on the cam.
 

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Yes............................
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 3rd cam journal from the cam gear is spun pretty good. Damage to the camshaft, and both halves of the journal. All others look good. Prob try to get around to pulling the head this evening and tomorrow. Depending on the extent of the damage(and cost to fix), might make more sense to go with a “low” mileage junkyard engine.

Bummer...Obv more than I want to put into this thing right now, but worst case scenario, there are 2 junkyards locally who have several engines on hand for with 1/3 mileage this thing has.
 

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you should be able to source a head for pretty cheap, much easier to swap heads than to swap the motor. This also gives you the opportunity to have a machine shop go over the replacement head and ensure it's in spec. You can find a replacement head from someone on this forum (I have a few spares I keep myself)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That was my plan, but all 3 pistons received light taps from the exhaust valves. Wasn’t too worried about it as light as they were, but with the bottom end already having 370k miles on it, I’d rather spend $500 on a complete engine with 120k miles on it. One of the local junkyards will do a compression and leak down test before selling it to me. You’d think they would all want to do that, especially when giving a warranty.

Another big project is literally the last thing I needed right now, but hopefully with a “fresh” engine I’ll be good to go for a long time.
 

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Yeah, I think I agree. A good low mileage cylinder head will cost you $350 give or take. By getting your guy to do a compression and leak down, you kinda get the testing you need anyway. Given the mileage, swapping out the entire engine seems a better course.

BTW, the junk yards almost always give a guarantee since it really doesn't cost them much of anything. The customer is the loser if the guarantee gets exercised because he has a wasted part swap, when they simply offer up another part.

If you had good EGR, o2 sensors, etc. then swap them out if they want the core back.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah...the negative to doing the whole motor is having to remove the ima from my engine, but I guess it’s worth the lower miles imo. Hopefully pulling axles out and dropping the assembly this evening if everything goes right. Mounts, axles, and shift cables should be the only things left.

Wiring is all disconnected and tywrap’ed against the firewall(since I was hoping to just do the head), but I think I’ll disconnect the ecu and those connectors and dress the engine outside the car on the install.
 

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The replacement engine should come with the IMA motor. It stays with the engine, not the transmission. If this one doesn't, find another one.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That would make life easier for sure, but all the ones locally are sold separately. Most of the ones on eBay(that show more than “stock” pictures do as well.

I def don’t need one today/tomorrow, but if it’s going to take a week to be shipped to me, it’s the same price/mileage/condition I’d rather buy local. If anyone happens to see any great deals in the next day or so then lmk.
 

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In theory, and according to the manual, you need a special tool to extract the rotor from the IMA motor without having the permanent magnets pull the rotor off center and contact the stator core. Many folks has had success by just using a thin cardboard, like a corn flakes box. It worked for me when I disassembled my donor CVT engine, for the experience and curiosity.
 
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