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Discussion Starter #21
Update:

I followed up with one of the local junkyards, and scored a 98k mile engine with ima motor, clutch, and wiring harness. About $150 more expensive than the other local options, but having the extra parts and harness will probably pay for itself in the long run.

The wiring harness is complete, however one of the connections for the ecm inside were pretty mangled, likely from something smashing into in storage...so I’m going to end up using my original harness. Car was the same as mine(2000 and 5spd) so hoping that will make the transfer that much easier.

Before installing the new engine, I plan on installing:

-new clutch kit
-input shaft bearing
-probably the engine block heater
-obviously all fluids

Anything else to consider that I’m missing?
 

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Rear main seal, front crank seal and o-ring, adjust valves and a valve cover gasket. I would also take the water distribution housing off the head and re-seal it and replace the 2 o-rings that are on the metal coolant pipes that bolt into the distribution block.

Scott
 

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Idler pulley bearing.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Man, I still can’t get this thing started.

“New” engine in, compression tests come out 165, 145, 150. After checking compression, I switched back to my original plugs and coils, didn’t make a difference. (Both engines need B plugs, however the engine that I purchased had Champion plugs that I couldn’t find a B on). Sooo, back to the original NGK B plugs that worked before to eliminate that variable.

12v Battery at 12.39v

Engine cranks strong on 12v but doesn’t make an attempt to fire. IMA battery is dead per the instrument panel gauge, and no longer attempts to start on 12v.

This whole thing started when the gauge on the dash showed no charge for the ima battery, and the car died about the time it showed totally depleted.

I haven’t tested fuel pressure yet, but the pump is priming, and by cracking the nut open on the fuel rail it is in fact pressurized. It seems like this is going to be something simple, but this car is killing me.
 

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Engine cranks strong on 12v but doesn’t make an attempt to fire. IMA battery is dead per the instrument panel gauge, and no longer attempts to start on 12v.
Try holding the key in the start position for a full 5 seconds
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Sorry, meant to type ima battery. Little frazzled last night. The hybrid battery appears to be totally depleted, and will only attempt to start via 12v starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Any ideas? After the ima battery stopped trying to start the engine, I got a p1647 CEL. From searching here, it seems to be mostly related to the ima battery and it’s being dead.

The other night before I got the P1647, there was a period where neither of my scan tools would read the car. They’re totally different systems and both came up as “error.”

I’m going to try and test the fuel pressure tonight or tomorrow night, and do the battery bypass temporarily until I get this thing started and sorted out. From what I’ve read, I don’t need to chase down this P1647 code to get it to start. Am I correct in my thinking? I put it on the grid charger last night, but I don’t have any way of seeing where the battery is at since it seems like it’s basic homemade thing with a multimeter on top. The battery fan kicked on when I plugged it in, guessing that means it’s charging?
 

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Got a pic of the charger? Maybe we can identify it.
Yes the fan should come on when the charger is charging.
 

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I’m a little late here. I’m back from a trip and I didn’t want to do this on my phone.

I would have grid charged in the beginning. I don’t like stuff that doesn’t work, I don’t like bypassed IMAs, and I don’t like to introduce new problems when working on an old one.

Take the 12V to Autozone and have it LOAD TESTED.

When something doesn’t work always go back to the last thing you did. In this case you swapped engines, which involved a LOT of electrical connectors. Double check every one of them. They are good at hiding from you.

You are either not getting fuel or spark. Squirt some starting fluid in there. If it fires your problem is fuel. If it doesn’t fire, your problem is spark. Back to electrical.

You have to assume the new engine is good. This leaves you with whatever happened to the old one. I believe it was a broken cam. But why?

It has to be something on the car side, not the engine side, since the new engine also doesn’t start. Back to Electrical. If the code doesn’t help, and you can’t look up problems on your OBDIIC&C Gauge, you need to go to the wiring diagram. I’d start with the power to the ECU. Also look for rodent damage.

I hope this helps.


Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #32
No worries, appreciate any help I can get. I don’t know how I didn’t see this until now, but I’ll do your suggestions tomorrow evening.

I haven’t spent any time on it until this evening since, but did make some “progress” that has me thinking ECM.

So, I noticed after it died, that the cel wasn’t on, and I had a code for air intake temp sensor. I fixed it, cleared the code, and it hasn’t come back....the only code I’ve had show up besides that is the 1647 after the hybrid battery drained the other day. The CEL does not come on AT ALL, which I think I wrote in a previous post.

I did the complete MIL troubleshooting guide in the service manual, all voltage checks were exactly what they should’ve been, and the final step is replacing ECM with a known good one. There are several on car-part locally for $45, and a Honda dealer 10mins away from the house to get a new key cut at, so not a huge deal to test. My question is, and I’d like some input as to if this idea is crazy or not...when the car shut down, I had some Nest cameras I had just bought, in the footwell, right up against where the ECM would be. The Nest cameras have decently strong magnets on them(strong enough that theyre mounted with a magnet, even for outdoor use). My foot slipped off the clutch as we were slowing, right when the car shut off as traffic suddenly came to a stop. Could the ECM been damaged by the magnets on the cameras? Or is that pretty far fetched given that there was a bit of packaging, the carpet, and any gap separating the magnets in the camera and the ecm?

**(admittedly, wondering if my foot slipping off the clutch effectively “popping it” damaged the cam/valves, while the car shutting off was caused by the magnets in the cameras)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Also, the immobilizer light comes on when you first turn ignition on, and then the light turns off like it’s supposed to. Wanted to make that clear. Saw in other threads that some people said that it sometimes may allow cranking but not spark/fuel etc.
 

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Also, the immobilizer light comes on when you first turn ignition on, and then the light turns off like it’s supposed to. Wanted to make that clear. Saw in other threads that some people said that it sometimes may allow cranking but not spark/fuel etc.
If you're getting crank, your immobilizer is good. I don't think you damaged your ECM, but it wouldn't hurt to swap with a known good one as a test. If you search the site, you can find some directions on how to bypass the immobilizer, saving yourself the expense at the dealership if it does come to swapping that out. Start at the basics, and work back from there. You need fuel, air and spark for a car to go vroom. See which one you aren't getting.
 

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Start at the basics, and work back from there. You need fuel, air and spark for a car to go vroom. See which one you aren't getting.
As above what he says.

CrankingY?N?
Fuel Y/N? Does it start/fire/run when you squirt easy start into the air intake?
Spark Y/N? Can you see/hear sparks with a plug resting on the block?
We will assume it has air..
 

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^ +1. Fuel and spark.

Re your grid charger and meter, the "odd" label on the charger case is a computer power supply label and tells me that the charger is probably a home built; and I see Meanwell logo through the cooling slots, so yes home built.

The meter doesn't read 0, the meter is dead. The meter probably reads dead or inoperative because the meter battery is dead, or maybe even corroded. The access to that 9V battery is by removing the back cover of the meter. If you can't get the meter to work on a proven 12V battery, then that meter is less than $10 at Harbor Freight.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Alright, posting some updates as I go along. Got the fuel pressure gauge hooked up, and after a few key cycle to prime the system it would be at 45psi while cranking (Right within spec).

After running side to do a couple things and then back out to garage to continue testing, the gauge won’t read above 10psi(the needles default resting spot).

Engine sputters with starting fluid, which is more than it’s done previously. You can still hear the motor in tank running for a couple secs, along with some gurgling sounds at the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
12.5v testing the fuel pump connector 5p and body ground, while jumping pgm-fi relay terminals, so that’s good.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Has the end broken off the pump in the tank. That's been seen before.
[/QUOT
I have the pump out now and don’t see anything out of the ordinary. I did a quick search and didn’t see much regarding the bottom breaking off. Which part are you referring to?
 
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