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2001 5S "Turbo"
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It's kind of like opening prescription bottles for the elderly.
 

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2000 5spd AC silver.
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25 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I’m turning it until the key is flat and parallel with the ground. It’s turning about 90° and won’t turn any further than that. This is with the black key not the valet key. Is there more to this I’m missing? I can hear it lock and unlock, but the hatch never opens.
 

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Are you holding the key in that position with one hand and squeezing the handle with the other hand?

Sam
 

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I don't know then. The key should override that. Be sure to turn the key (hard) first, then do the handle.

Sam
 

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2000 5spd AC silver.
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Discussion Starter #26
The rod was off the lock assembly. The key feels totally different now. I need a latch clutch to fix the button. It just seemed odd that both would fail at the same time when the button worked before.

Probably the rod has been off the lock since I got it and now the clutch has failed.

For anyone else reading along. The button is irrelevant when opening using the key. But you must hold the key in the override position as you pull up on the hatch. The latch is a two stage and you need to override both. You’ll feel the key move a bit further all the way to 90° parallel with the ground in the final position.

 

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Thanks for the reply, your supporting my theory on this pack that it's probably weakend, but not dead yet. I'm certainly not banking on this pack, but I'm glad that it's not complete trash and I can put some miles on it and not feel rushed into spending the big money. I guess I'm just struggling with determining how bad this pack is without an object of comparison.
I mean, I wouldn't necessarily assume it's a failing pack either, although it's more likely given the age of these vehicles. But it sounds like you have the right mindset. Also keep in mind that just throwing one IMA light doesn't mean the pack is toast, it may just be severely imbalanced, and a charge/discharge cycle may revive it. My pack very clearly has some weak cells but it behaves pretty consistently, and doesn't require an excessive amount of babying. I bought this car mainly as a cheap runaround vehicle. I don't have a long commute (actually, my commute is from the bedroom to the home office these days...) so there is no financial scenario where buying a new battery makes sense for me. When maintaining it becomes too much of a hassle, I'll probably just bypass it entirely.

Meant to mention - my car also had one loose spark plug when I bought it. I wonder if there's something about this engine's design that makes that more likely, or if we just both had cars that were serviced by sloppy shade tree mechanics?
 

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2000 5spd AC silver.
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Discussion Starter #29
I mean, I wouldn't necessarily assume it's a failing pack either, although it's more likely given the age of these vehicles. But it sounds like you have the right mindset. Also keep in mind that just throwing one IMA light doesn't mean the pack is toast, it may just be severely imbalanced, and a charge/discharge cycle may revive it. My pack very clearly has some weak cells but it behaves pretty consistently, and doesn't require an excessive amount of babying. I bought this car mainly as a cheap runaround vehicle. I don't have a long commute (actually, my commute is from the bedroom to the home office these days...) so there is no financial scenario where buying a new battery makes sense for me. When maintaining it becomes too much of a hassle, I'll probably just bypass it entirely.

Meant to mention - my car also had one loose spark plug when I bought it. I wonder if there's something about this engine's design that makes that more likely, or if we just both had cars that were serviced by sloppy shade tree mechanics?
This car was dealer maintained before the guy I got it from who drove it for a little less than a year about 60 miles a day. I’m the third owner and the second owner bought it from the original dealer after the first owner traded it in on a Gen3. The second owner out gas in it that’s really it. He didn’t even hit the first oil change since the dealership did it pre sale. I’m not sure they weren’t the original plugs. The iridium plugs hold up really well, but who knows.

I know the cabin air filter was original. 20 years is the interval on those right?




I just wonder how many time the original owner paid for it to be changed and it didn’t happen. The thing was gross, you can see all the crap that came out from me realizing it wouldn’t come out with that plastic strip still in place.
 

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I am not sure this was covered but indexed plugs - controversial - are the way Honda likes to go. They are iridium so they will last ~100K miles.
 

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2000 5spd AC silver.
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Discussion Starter #31
I am not sure this was covered but indexed plugs - controversial - are the way Honda likes to go. They are iridium so they will last ~100K miles.
I did use the indexed plugs. This car is another B car, and at $18.00 a piece I really hope they are worth the price.

It's tough to see but the grounding prong is pretty warn on these, so I could see them being the originals at 193K. No way to really know, and they are new now.
 

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2000 5spd AC silver.
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Discussion Starter #32
I think I just had my first negative recal. That's when the battery gauge drops like a stone all the way to 4 bars and then the 4 bars of background charging kicks in until the pack is back up to 3/4 or so right? I drove the car avoiding assist until it was back up to full. It seems sluggish now, like it wasn't allowing much assist even after it was charged back up. No IMA lights or CEL lights though.

Just more signs of a weak pack, or is this pack figuring life out again? Grid charger gets here today, hopefully. I won't be able to install it until I get back from a work trip in a few weeks. The car will have to sit while I'm gone.
 

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I think I just had my first negative recal. That's when the battery gauge drops like a stone all the way to 4 bars and then the 4 bars of background charging kicks in until the pack is back up to 3/4 or so right?
Yeah, that's about it. Though I'm pretty sure it actually drops to 1 bar and it's easy to miss the ICE charging that happens, that brings the bars up to 3 or 4 by the time you notice. Also, I'm not sure what stops the charging, it doesn't always charge the same amount - sometimes it keeps charging until 'pos recal', sometimes it only charges 'a few bars' and quits, etc. I've seen it charge to various levels, can't figure it out.

I drove the car avoiding assist until it was back up to full. It seems sluggish now, like it wasn't allowing much assist even after it was charged back up. No IMA lights or CEL lights though. Just more signs of a weak pack, or is this pack figuring life out again?
Can't remember what you've done with the pack since your first post, too lazy to go back and read. No IMA or CE lights is a good sign, I guess (you have checked that those lights work, right?). My guess is that you've got imbalance, an early empty cell caused the whole pack to be called 'empty' (i.e. neg recal), you got some charge back into it, more than what would trigger a P1449-78, yet you still probably didn't get that much into it, before reaching the full voltage... You try to use assist but you get throttling, because the one lowest stick-pair (or cell within the stick-pair) is still not charged very much and probably cruddy, so it's probably hitting a low voltage under assist load...
 

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2000 5spd AC silver.
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Discussion Starter #34
Yeah, that's about it. Though I'm pretty sure it actually drops to 1 bar and it's easy to miss the ICE charging that happens, that brings the bars up to 3 or 4 by the time you notice. Also, I'm not sure what stops the charging, it doesn't always charge the same amount - sometimes it keeps charging until 'pos recal', sometimes it only charges 'a few bars' and quits, etc. I've seen it charge to various levels, can't figure it out.



Can't remember what you've done with the pack since your first post, too lazy to go back and read. No IMA or CE lights is a good sign, I guess (you have checked that those lights work, right?). My guess is that you've got imbalance, an early empty cell caused the whole pack to be called 'empty' (i.e. neg recal), you got some charge back into it, more than what would trigger a P1449-78, yet you still probably didn't get that much into it, before reaching the full voltage... You try to use assist but you get throttling, because the one lowest stick-pair (or cell within the stick-pair) is still not charged very much and probably cruddy, so it's probably hitting a low voltage under assist load...

Thanks for the detailed reply. The TLDR is the pack sat for just under a year, after the Previous Owner left it here because it needed a pack. The car was 100% dead, 12V, everything, so I have no way of knowing what codes gave them that idea. When I fired it up there was no DC-DC converter until after it had charged for a while and a P1756 with IMA light that I didn't know to read a flash code for. That hasn't come back since the first drive cycle, and the CEL comes on fine at key turn. So I'm thinking it bottom balanced. Charged it up on the ICE with no assist and started driving it.

Tonight on the way home from work it felt like it was assisting well again. My grid charger isn't here, so there's no way I'll get it installed before my work trip.
 
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