Honda Insight Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
2000 honda insight
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 2000 insight wiith no information on the history. IMA light is not on. Is there a way I can test the IMA battery to find out if it is functioning properly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
If you drive it, you feel boost, the gauge goes up and down and recharges when you don’t use assist. I’d say that’s as best you can do until you drive it with a fresh battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,215 Posts
If you have a scan tool you could check if the emissions monitors have run to completion. If not, the previous owner may have reset the system. 50 or 100 miles of mixed driving will usually show a bad or weak battery if IMA light comes on.
 

·
Registered
2000 honda insight
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I hooked up a scan tool but honestly I just erased the codes without paying attention to them. The ima battery level indicator seems to be all over the place. I've seen it half full, then completely full without driving it, then low. I will keep the scan tool in the car and keep track of the codes. I haven't driven it more than 10 mi. all together. Can the ima battery be bad without the ima light coming on?
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
10,476 Posts
Please include your Location in your Profile.
Thank You.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
I’m no expert but I honestly believe so. Time for a grid charge/discharge cycle and see where that gets you. Good thing is that lithium can calm you down and excite your car all at the same time.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
10,476 Posts
Click on your avatar, scroll down to account settings, click on that. Scroll down to Location. Fill it out. Scroll down to save, click on that...Done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,639 Posts
IMA light is not on. Is there a way I can test the IMA battery to find out if it is functioning properly?... The ima battery level indicator seems to be all over the place. I've seen it half full, then completely full without driving it, then low... Can the ima battery be bad without the ima light coming on?
The idea that the "battery level indicator seems to be all over the place" suggests that your pack is at minimum imbalanced (cells at different charge states and/or conditions). Just how bad is hard to say. There's a wide range of bad - bad as in dysfunctional, bad as in functional but poor performing, etc. By the time the IMA light comes on the pack is typically really bad; packs can be bad way before you see the IMA light.

I'd suggest trying to get a baseline sense of how bad the pack is.

Pull the underdash #18 fuse for 20 seconds or so, reinstall. This resets the battery computer.

When you go to start the car the BAT gauge will be empty and upon start the car will try to charge the pack off the gas engine. You can let it idle for a while and see how long the charge/green bars last, and/or you can rev to about 3200 RPM to charge faster, and/or you can drive and the pack will continue charging as you drive and use regen (try not to use assist).

The goal here is to do one or more of these until the BAT gauge jumps to 19 bars, people around here call that a 'positive recal'. This will be where the car thinks the pack is close to full. It could take very little time, or it could take a lot. At this point we won't be able to tell what's 'good' though. That's the next step. But in general, if you start with what's supposed to be a near empty pack, then the longer it takes to charge the better. The thing is we don't know how empty your pack is when we start...

So next you need to find a good long hill and use assist, try to drain the pack. Just keep driving and using assist, trying to avoid regen, until the BAT gauge drops to 1-3 bars. You may find that you see 3, maybe 4 bars disappear slowly - and then all the bars plummet to the bottom. Not good. Or, you may find that the BAT bars tick down pretty slowly, commensurate with how much assist you've been using. That's good, or at least better...

If you can get the BAT gauge down maybe half way before it plummets to the bottom, you've probably got a pack that will at least function the way it is. But you'll likely need to do some kind of reconditioning routine sooner or later. If you barely get the bars down before they plummet? Well, you'll probably end up doing the same thing - some kind of reconditioning - but I wouldn't expect much. Personally, if I saw that, I'd be doing one of the more...'advanced' forms of reconditioning, not a full pack charge and full pack discharge, 3 cycles and all that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Definitely sounds like your battery is weak, but a grid charge / discharge cycle often works wonders on these cars. When I bought my car (248k miles) it was okay in gentle driving around town but couldn’t handle the hill test described above. About once a month it would throw the IMA light, and I would reset it by pulling the fuse in the footwell.

I had a free battery conditioning done by the local tech school’s hybrid auto class, and that gave me much improved performance and about six months with no IMA light. Then I built a grid charger and spent a week doing the three cycle charge / discharge process described in this website. I’m climbing hills again drawing in the IMA.

While these older batteries have their flaws, they do seem to be tolerant of abuse and respond well to maintenance.

Good luck!

- Park
 

·
Registered
2000 honda insight
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The idea that the "battery level indicator seems to be all over the place" suggests that your pack is at minimum imbalanced (cells at different charge states and/or conditions). Just how bad is hard to say. There's a wide range of bad - bad as in dysfunctional, bad as in functional but poor performing, etc. By the time the IMA light comes on the pack is typically really bad; packs can be bad way before you see the IMA light.

I'd suggest trying to get a baseline sense of how bad the pack is.

Pull the underdash #18 fuse for 20 seconds or so, reinstall. This resets the battery computer.

When you go to start the car the BAT gauge will be empty and upon start the car will try to charge the pack off the gas engine. You can let it idle for a while and see how long the charge/green bars last, and/or you can rev to about 3200 RPM to charge faster, and/or you can drive and the pack will continue charging as you drive and use regen (try not to use assist).

The goal here is to do one or more of these until the BAT gauge jumps to 19 bars, people around here call that a 'positive recal'. This will be where the car thinks the pack is close to full. It could take very little time, or it could take a lot. At this point we won't be able to tell what's 'good' though. That's the next step. But in general, if you start with what's supposed to be a near empty pack, then the longer it takes to charge the better. The thing is we don't know how empty your pack is when we start...

So next you need to find a good long hill and use assist, try to drain the pack. Just keep driving and using assist, trying to avoid regen, until the BAT gauge drops to 1-3 bars. You may find that you see 3, maybe 4 bars disappear slowly - and then all the bars plummet to the bottom. Not good. Or, you may find that the BAT bars tick down pretty slowly, commensurate with how much assist you've been using. That's good, or at least better...

If you can get the BAT gauge down maybe half way before it plummets to the bottom, you've probably got a pack that will at least function the way it is. But you'll likely need to do some kind of reconditioning routine sooner or later. If you barely get the bars down before they plummet? Well, you'll probably end up doing the same thing - some kind of reconditioning - but I wouldn't expect much. Personally, if I saw that, I'd be doing one of the more...'advanced' forms of reconditioning, not a full pack charge and full pack discharge, 3 cycles and all that.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
2000 honda insight
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Definitely sounds like your battery is weak, but a grid charge / discharge cycle often works wonders on these cars. When I bought my car (248k miles) it was okay in gentle driving around town but couldn’t handle the hill test described above. About once a month it would throw the IMA light, and I would reset it by pulling the fuse in the footwell.

I had a free battery conditioning done by the local tech school’s hybrid auto class, and that gave me much improved performance and about six months with no IMA light. Then I built a grid charger and spent a week doing the three cycle charge / discharge process described in this website. I’m climbing hills again drawing in the IMA.

While these older batteries have their flaws, they do seem to be tolerant of abuse and respond well to maintenance.

Good luck!

- Park
Thanks
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top