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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 03 blue insight just got totaled and so I picked up another 03 5 speed with 92k miles on eBay. I was getting 81.5mpg or better on my previous one but this one is only getting hi 60s at speed. I'm not seeing it enter lean burn at all. It also hesitates and has light shutters on the highway when I'm used to lean burn kicking in.

It has new spark plugs all A plugs to match the stamps.
New coils x3
Ran seafoam through tank and vacuum line in upper engine
1 year old IMA battery from Honda (did it myself last week)
Under hood battery is fine
Aluminum under body panels front and rear
Correct tires 40psi
New honda front O2
No codes
Auto stop works fine even with air on (didn't work on last car unless fan was off)

Car came from philly now its in Fl/Ga
 

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Do a compression test just to make sure you are working with a sound engine. If the ICE is down on power, you can't achieve the low loads required to get into LB. Be sure to turn off the IMA battery switch and do the test on the 12V starter, as the service manual indicates, and have someone hold the throttle fully open.

As an experiment, inflate the tires to 65 psi just to lower the engine load. If that puts you into LB, then you have to work with ICE engine power issues.

Ignore the inevitable warnings about impending doom with high tire pressure. There seems to be no failures related to 65 psi, but do make sure your tires have no dry rot before doing it. Readjust tire pressure after your experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't have the service manual for those instructions. Also I do have some dry rot on the tires but not lots (by Florida standards) and Ice? I can try the compression test if the localparts store has that as a loaner tool. The engine runs fine other than when it tries to go into LB.

Do a compression test just to make sure you are working with a sound engine. If the ICE is down on power, you can't achieve the low loads required to get into LB. Be sure to turn off the IMA battery switch and do the test on the 12V starter, as the service manual indicates, and have someone hold the throttle fully open.

As an experiment, inflate the tires to 65 psi just to lower the engine load. If that puts you into LB, then you have to work with ICE engine power issues.

Ignore the inevitable warnings about impending doom with high tire pressure. There seems to be no failures related to 65 psi, but do make sure your tires have no dry rot before doing it. Readjust tire pressure after your experiment.
 

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YMP,

Congrats on your new car!

As above, plus:

-Does the car seem to have less power? My silver one was referred to as a "low power car". If so, after the compression test, I would have the injectors sent off for a rebuild/test. Should be about $75.

-Also, have a good alignment shop check/adjust the PROPER toe settings.

-Check to make sure rear brakes aren't dragging.

-Check make sure all fluids are the good ones. (0w20 oil, Honda trans)

Rear battery good? Sometimes, the constant parasitic charging on a weak battery will lower MPG.

All the best! You will figure this out and start getting 80s again!
 

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I don't have the service manual for those instructions. Also I do have some dry rot on the tires but not lots (by Florida standards) and Ice? I can try the compression test if the localparts store has that as a loaner tool. The engine runs fine other than when it tries to go into LB.
About the only important parts of the compression test instructions are the ones I listed. A healthy engine should reach 180-210 lbs. in 6-9 strokes. Try Advanced Auto or Autozone. Both are usually helpful.

Lots of good ideas from freezin4.

If you have any tire sidewall cracking, I would not go over 54 lbs, which is the listed max load pressure. Even then, let the tires back down to placard (i.e. doorjam) pressures as soon as your test is completed. Tire pressure makes a tremendous difference in coasting distances and engine load.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It seems to have the same power as the previous one as far as I can see or feel. The alignment does not pull or anything and I can let go of the wheel for a while while driving. I just changed the oil with 0-20 synthetic. I've not checked the 5 speed yet but I bet it could use fresh fluid whatever it takes. My old one had not been checked either tho. The battery is fully charged while I'm getting this mpg and I've driven it on several long trips one of which before the battery was replaced and light was on.

My list of things to check are EGR / PLATE
5 speed oil (unsure of what fluid, how much is there, and how to check it)
Jack it up and check if rear tires spin ok

I don't know if there is a way to check injectors unless I'm swapping them from my other totaled car.

YMP,

Congrats on your new car!

As above, plus:

-Does the car seem to have less power? My silver one was referred to as a "low power car". If so, after the compression test, I would have the injectors sent off for a rebuild/test. Should be about $75.

-Also, have a good alignment shop check/adjust the PROPER toe settings.

-Check to make sure rear brakes aren't dragging.

-Check make sure all fluids are the good ones. (0w20 oil, Honda trans)

Rear battery good? Sometimes, the constant parasitic charging on a weak battery will lower MPG.

All the best! You will figure this out and start getting 80s again!
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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11,333 Posts
Take it on a long trip and drive it like you stole it. It probably needs "cleaning out" from the previous owners driving habits/style.

HTH
Willie
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I cleaned the egr and used pb blaster on it and let it sit over night. I also ran a bunch through the opening while the engine was running then let it sit over night. The herky jerky is gone but I'm still barely getting 75 mpg doing 60mph when in the same conditions I was getting 81plus in the previous car. Also lean burn was way more obvious in my last car so I'm not sure yet. You could almost time it on the highway and it was I big jump on mpg bar.

This mpg is an improvement over before I cleaned it tho
 
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