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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, before I go down and slave away in the shop I want to get this out of the way.

There are a few things kit buyers should be aware of when assembling their units that could greatly reduce frustration.

This is a link to a large picture of the board stack. Thanks again to Rush for doing the CAD work on the cases.

OBDIIC&C Gauge Board Stack

Note the 0.125" spacer between the OBDIIC&C PCB and the LCD PCB. You must install this spacer on all four corners before soldering the LCD to the PCB, or the stack dimensions won't be right. Temporarily install some screws to secure everything, and then solder away:



The switch is the fly in the ointment with this whole thing. It's not Peter's fault, he didn't build the unit around a case. Note in the large picture of the board layout that the joyswitch is standing up on it's pins, not down flush with the PCB:



The LEDs must be installed into the front of the case first. Note the orientation of the flat spot, which marks the cathode - towards the edge of the case:



Make sure to install the LEDs in the right spots!



Continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Put the screws through the front of the case and lay it down. Then put the spacers on the screws, like so:



Line the board up with the LED leads and put everything home:



Put the nuts on snug, but do not tighten them down all the way. Turn the assembly over and adjust things so that the joyswitch is centered in its hole, then tighten the assembly up.



I have been installing the OBDII connection terminal block backwards, but I’m not sure this is necessary. There is probably enough room between the case and OBDII terminal block to get the wires around, it just seemed like a more direct route with the way I have the cable looped around inside the case:



I use a piece of heatshrink on the bare shield wire, and then liberally apply some liquid electrical tape to insulate and provide strain relief/vibration resistance:

Continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)


In the box:



The pictures weren’t taken in sequence, so the hardware etc is a little different in some of them. Of course, you’re welcome to assemble it any way you want to. Comments and suggestions always welcome.
 

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Nice write up. Not sure about that liquid black stuff, hope you don't need to remove it. :?

Shame about the switch, oh well I know now, need one with a longer stalk.

I would probably use a key matrix sticky pad like Mike's charger for a new version.
Then we could have out own printed ident/details on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
One more thing:

All of the units that I'm shipping will have the PIC pre-programmed, but when the time comes to update the software, note that pin 1 on the ICSP port faces towards the bottom of the unit:



With the 19mm header I used, it's much easier to plug the programmer in, however note that it's still possible to miss a pin. The programmer cable should be offset towards the bottom of the case like in the above pic. If it's centered, you have missed a pin:



I'll post this in the main thread too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Nice write up. Not sure about that liquid black stuff, hope you don't need to remove it. :?

Shame about the switch, oh well I know now, need one with a longer stalk.

I would probably use a key matrix sticky pad like Mike's charger for a new version.
Then we could have our own printed ident/details on it.
Regarding the liquid electrical tape.. it would probably be a good idea to test everything before doing it. I think anything would work.. hot glue, silicone, etc. The liquid electrical tape actually comes off pretty easily, it's kinda like silicone, but it will provide a nice strain relief. The cable wires are 24 and 28 gauge, so very tiny and will not withstand much vibration etc.

I just want people to be happy with the units and for them to provide long service life. It's ugly, but it works. ;)

A keypad would be excellent overall.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I've decided to omit the washer on the front of the case. They were a pain in my ***, I couldn't get them to stay centered and it didn't look good. So if you kit builders want your units to look the same as the assembled ones, go ahead and omit them. They're not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:D

I guess I should have included a note or something.

As the story goes.. I initially sourced 150 ohm resistors as per Peter's specs. These worked great with the blue LCD I had on hand for the first prototype.

However, when I received the green LCDs that I sourced for the kits and assembled units, I wasn't happy with how bright the LCD was. The green LCDs require much more power than the blue ones. So I ordered 100 ohm resistors. It was better, but I still wasn't completely satisfied.

So I was ordering some components unrelated to the OBDIIC&C Gauges, and at the last minute decided to order some 82 ohm resistors for the OBDIIC&C Gauges. Even better. I guess I like my LCDs nice and bright. Some people don't.

So I decided to include all 3 resistors just a matter of course, but especially for the people who didn't elect to use one of the LCDs I sourced.

Now that V0.02 of the software has PWM backlight control enabled, I recommend going with the lowest ohm resistor suitable for your LCD, so 82 ohm for the green LCD I sourced. If it's too bright, which I don't think it is, you can always turn it down via the software. :)

The displays I sourced are transflective, so you really only need the backlight on in low ambient light situations.
 

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As compared to the Transmissive LCD I'm using (Green characters on a black background), which needs its backlight running all the time.
 

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Eli,

Thanks for sourcing all of this. I'm almost finished with the assembly.
It looks way more professional than if I would have done this on my own.

Where did you get an allen wrench small enough to fit the screws?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It should come in most comprehensive sets, it's 0.050". Home Depot, Ace, etc.
 

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A couple of my build notes...

The RGB LCD has three inputs, one for red, green, and blue. Of course the blue doesn't line up with the standard output, so I bodged this in there until I can come up with the right logic to do the color change:


Don't forget to trim the posts on the other side of the programming port! the metal tabs on the back of my LCD were touching here.


When using the cable header backwards like Eli suggests up there, I found it was nearly impossible to get every strand of every wire in... it just seemed like a recipe for disaster:


So I tinned the ends of each wire before screwing them into the block... made things MUCH easier the second time. I also only used about 1/3 of the shielding strands as I just couldn't mash that many into the header block.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good notes Sam. :) I also tin the leads and only use about half of the shield strands as well.

The tabs on the back of the LCD don't touch anything with all four spacers in place, but it's also possible that your RGB LCD is different from the LCDs I sourced.
 

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Yeah I didn't have any problem with the green one for my dad's Insight. But I figure it's something to watch out for, as there are lots of panel manufacturers out there :).

I also forgot to mention: I couldn't get the programmer plugged in to either one without removing the case due to the weird alignment, so I just stuck my hot iron in the hole and melted the slot about 1/8 inch longer. Problem stinkily solved.

Sam
 

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I cut back the outer insulation a little farther to reduce the bulk near the connector, cut the shield to 1/4 inch, soldered a 24 ga wire to the shield, added heat shrink, and connected the 24 ga wire to the connector. No possibility of a short due to the shield.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah I didn't have any problem with the green one for my dad's Insight. But I figure it's something to watch out for, as there are lots of panel manufacturers out there :).

I also forgot to mention: I couldn't get the programmer plugged in to either one without removing the case due to the weird alignment, so I just stuck my hot iron in the hole and melted the slot about 1/8 inch longer. Problem stinkily solved.

Sam
That works... I thought about doing something like that, but didn't want to ruin the nice finish of the cases.. lol.

It's pretty easy to plug in though? Maybe I'll make a video. I've been programming them all through the case. I did miss a pin once. The good news is that missing a pin doesn't toast anything. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As a note,

With the OBDII cables I sourced for this 2nd batch, the wire colors are different. On the PCB side, it should go:

Pin1 = Blue
Pin2 = Red
Pin3 = Yellow
Pin4 = Green
Pin5 = White
 

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What are they on the first batch?
 

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