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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I may have recovered from what seemed to be a serious miscalculation on the amount of case back that I could cut out to reduce the case thickness. I was able to reduce the case thickness by ~40%, or 16 mm, which makes the gauge look much more svelte.

After opening the case by removing the 4 screws that attach the case front to the case back, push the strain relief out of the hole in the case back, remove the strain relief from the cable, and cut a slot that will allow you to slide the cable out of its exit hole through the case back. This will allow you to cut 16 mm. of case out of the case back without worrying about cutting the cable. Perform this cut after carefully scribing a line all around the case 16 mm. from the existing mating surface. On a flat surface, sand the newly-cut surface to eliminate any irregularities that could prevent a good fit with the case front. Then drill a new logging port hole and lengthen the programming port slot so that the programming pins align with the hole better.


Case front, back, and section cut out of back

You will need to recess the 4 posts in the modified case back into which the 4 connecting screws screw. You must also recess the plastic support that connects each post to the side of the case back. If you compare these posts with the posts in the section that you cut out, you will see how much the posts must be recessed. You will also need to drill holes in the shortened posts for the screws to screw into. Using a wood bit, I was able to remove plastic from the top of each post to recess the posts. Using the small blade of a Swiss Army knife, I was able to recess the post supports.

Lengthen the PIC programmer plug slot in the case back so that the plug will plug in without angling the plug.

With the case back modification complete, cut 5 mm. off the length of the programming pins so that they do not protrude through the programming port slot in the case. Then route the cable on the side of the "12C" connector nearer the center of the circuit board. In this position, the cable won't block the cable attachment side of the "12C" connector should it be used in the future (Peter, what is this connector?). Push the portion of the cable flattened and bent by the strain relief between the circuit board mounting nut and the programming pins connector.


New cable position does not block PIC programmer plug from being fully inserted


Then glue the cable to the circuit board near the programming pins connector using hot melt glue, silicone rubber cement, etc.

This should act as a strain relief. If the cable were in frequent motion, it would probably not be ideal that the cable is wedged between the circuit board mounting nut and the programming pins connector. But the cable should not move enough with enough force to wear a hole through the cable sheath.

After the cable glue has set, reassemble the case. I attached the hooks type of Velcro strips to the back of the case and the loops type of Velcro strips to the dashboard above and below the left air vent.


Note the lengthened PIC programmer plug slot

I sealed the various access holes in the case with clear tape to minimize internal dust contamination. The tape will be easy to remove when I need to reprogram the PIC or attach a data logging cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OBDIIC&C Gauge Case Thickness Reduction Part 2

I turned off the vent and tilted its louvers fully down.


Velcro strips on dashboard


I routed the cable behind the plastic dashboard trim, across the top of the some wiring looms behind the dashboard to keep the cable off my feet, to the center console where the OBDII port is, and plugged it in.

I then stuck the gauge to the dashboard using the Velcro where it doesn't look too bad, is easy to see, and is securely attached. I suppose if I really feel that I need ventilation from the left air vent, I could pull the gauge off the dashboard and lay it in the coin tray temporarily.



If the cable seems to move around too much, I might attach small strips of Velcro to the cable and dashboard to secure the cable. But the cable seems to be pretty happy and stable where it is.

After a rocky start with my case modification, I'm quite happy with the result and think that a thinner case looks nicer on the dashboard.
 

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Thanks for the pics Art that looks nice and neat.

The I2C connector is for future expansion and is where you can connect a Melexis infra red temp sensor as discussed in the main thread.
 

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Strange. I can see them. If you aren't logged in to the forum, maybe that would prevent you from viewing them.

They are among the photos I posted in my photo gallery. So if you can't view them in this thread, maybe you can view them in my photo gallery.
I am logged into the forum to post and looked for hidden links. There are no pictures only description seen here.
The photo's in the gallery are visible though, thanks.

fwiw: have had problems with my own IC gallery after very first posting and gave up on it using photobucket. oh well.
 

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Can see all images full size now, thanks.

Great stuff! Looks good. :) It's all there now full size in the thread.
fwiw: since I hadn't changed anything on my browser nor any other settings, here's a shoutout of "Thanks!" to whomever for whatever happened to the IC photogallery settings, and to Art of course for the descriptive photos.
All of Art's IC Photo Gallery images now also can be seen 'full size' when logged into my user acct and clicking the thumbnails, as opposed to just only the first four full sized earlier today.
_______________________

Art, Thanks! for the tips in your PM on the Photo Gallery re: opening the "selrahc" username's gallery with that acct showing my own first submitted gallery pic's thumbnail; ..appears the fellow also had a gallery acct issue too: being stuck on the image thumbnail only. fwiw"A search for my own abcared00 username Photo Gallery doesn't show any albums; I couldn't delete the album somehow, but made a request and it must have been undertaken, however the file ended up in his acct.
The joys of computing!
 

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Here is a case that I was going to make to house Peter's current OBDII PCB. It's just a little bigger than the actual PCB. The 3 holes on the end are all that is needed, output for 1/8" plug, software update (ICSP) and the signal wire.

The material is .100 Black styrene cut to size, with the pieces glued together, the back is screwed in place.

I actually have 4 boards from Peter that I can assemble with the new case. If anybody wants one, or even just a case, let me know and I'll work up a price.
 

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Great!

That is 3 cases already,
- Fuelsipper
- bKevin Dougherty
- eq1

Anybody else? Obviously the more pieces I cut at one time, the cheaper the setup is.
I'm pretty busy for the next 3 or 4 days with the J1772 stuff, so after that I'll get you a price. I used to work as a model maker in NYC and this is what I did all the time, it'll be fun to get back into it.
 

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Please add me to the Price Wanted list. I'm sure I'll want one.

Sam
 

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Case price
- Fuelsipper
- Kevin Dougherty
- eq1
- Rainsux/Sam

Cf-105 this is for just the case, do you want the whole thing?
 

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I wouldn't mind a few. ;)
 

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Case design

A couple of thoughts on the case design : 1) instead of a hole drilled for the cable in one spot have knock-outs on each side and the back so that the users could mount the gauge in different locations and have the wire exit the case in an area that won't be seen. 2) leave enough room on top of the electronics but still in the case to glue magnets in.
I relocated the cable to come out of the rear of the case and glued 4 rare earth magnets the size of quarters into the top of the case. I then took the panel under the radio down and glued 4 more magnets inside of it so that the gauge is held up tight but can be swiveled if wanted. Just be sure the poles are oriented correctly before gluing. I had thought about drilling a hole in the panel for the cable to go through but then I couldn't have used the gauge in both cars. This way I pop it out of one and into the other with no problem and no signs that anything is missing. I read about someone on IC mounting their Scangauge this way. OH, and don't use magnets if you still use the cassettes.
Just something to think about before you go into production.
 
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