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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my version of retepsnikrep http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-issues/20488-obdiic-c-gauge.html

What I'm doing is using an Arduino Nano to piggyback on to his PIC to control an RGB LCD. This will give visual information such as changing the LCD to green when in lean burn or changing it to red when there is an error condition. Normally this is done with small LED's but I think an RGB LCD would be more fun and better for visual cues as to whats going on.

It is also my plan to pass the serial logging feature of the gauge through the Arduino and output it through USB. I could also do other things with the serial data within the Arduino if needed. For an example change the colour of the the LCD on what ever the specified parameter is when its seen in the serial data stream.

The PIC part of the gauge may be closed source but the source for the Arduino end will be open and freely available. I will post the source as soon as I get the basic features set and working.

I will be posting pictures as well as schematics of my modifications as soon as I get around to it.

While I gather my stuff up and organise it to post here I'll leave you with a short video of my progress.

[video]http://stuff.jaygroh.com/insight/obdiicc/obdcctest.ogv[/video]
http://stuff.jaygroh.com/insight/obdiicc/obdcctest.ogv
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Place holder for information. Data will be here shortly.
 

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I was thinking... couldn't you do this with something as simple as an analog switch... something like this:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=quad+analog+switch+normally+off+5v&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX4711-MAX4713.pdf&ei=PVAST8XtEcT10gGy68XqCg&usg=AFQjCNHZ6D1NCFJn9OQcEMQKncDGqqb7MQ
But with the ability to handle the 100-120ma needed to drive the backlight. Or just use it to switch a couple transistors to do the actual driving. Seems like a quad switch would be enough logic to drive the following priority (high to low)
Red backlight -> green backlight -> blue if nothing else.

The attached image is what I was thinking of (using a quad, normally closed switch). If there isn't one that handles the kind of power I was thinking, then the three outputs could just be switching three transistors hooked to the backlight output instead (and the rest of the logic would just use another 5v source).

Also: there are probably diodes in there somewhere, but I don't know where they'd be needed.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I really should let people know that I've hit a snag. While testing the gauge in my car I let some magic smoke escape from the Arduino. It was my last one. :mad:

Anyway my main project now is to get my credit card debt down to more manageable levels. I recently purchased another Insight that I will use for an EV conversion. :)

In the mean time I will work on the code for the Arduino and get it posted for review. When I do get some more Arduino's I plan on using a 7805 to power everything instead of putting the 12v directly onto the Arduino. I have room on my board to do so. The 7805 should be better than the one on the Nano. Plus keeping the 12v away from the rest of the stuff should help prevent magic smoke from escaping.

I have some ebay bucks that I need to use so I may get another Arudino Nano and stat on this project again in a few weeks.
 

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I have just fitted a 20x4 OLED Winstar display to my test gauge and it works very nicely. :)

20x4 Oled Display, Yellow

Pic's later when it's a bit darker as my camera is playing up.

It's expensive about 3 x basic lcd price but looks nice. The pcb form factor and connections are the same, but the actual lcd/led apperture height is smaller so would have a gap around it if fitted in the case. No issue for me I don't use a case LOL

Edit

One pic only sorry camera is not working well. Looks nice at night though. The contrast is very high so you can't really see the surround or rest of the display as you would with a backlit device. So it looks a bit ethereal with the numbers floating in front of my eyes. LOL
 

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I've given up on the color-change idea for the time being, since the backlight is pretty much invisible during the day... I would need both the LED to come on and the LCD to change color to make it worth it, which is getting a little complicated.

Sam
 

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I can't see any major problem with the parallel version.

Each screen has it's quirks though so no guarantees. You'll have to try it.
 

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OLED vs LCD

Removed the green LCD that I was using and changed to above mentioned OLED. It all seems to be working fine.

Pros:
Clearer display
More efficient (does not heat up as much)
Thinner
Lighter

Cons:
Cost
OBDIIC&C box window too big

Enclosed are pics comparing the LCD with OLED
 

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That OLED does look sweet in there :).

Are all the OLED ones that same smaller dimension, or just the one you got?

Sam
 

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Looks Nice. I use an OLED in mine as well. :)
But they are about three/ four times the price of the lcd ones bought in bulk as mentioned. :(
 

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Can the screen be connected remotely from the rest of the C&C? I would love to bury everything except the screen under the dash and have the screen thin mounted onto the dash somewhere.

EDIT: Looks like is still has the PCB backing. Is there a screen that would work that has a cable/plug instead of the PCB?
 

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You could use a 16 way ribbon cable.
Need to keep it to less than 0.5m and you might get some interference issues, someone will have to try it.
Over to you guys! ;)
 

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Can the screen be connected remotely from the rest of the C&C? I would love to bury everything except the screen under the dash and have the screen thin mounted onto the dash somewhere.

EDIT: Looks like is still has the PCB backing. Is there a screen that would work that has a cable/plug instead of the PCB?
I've been thinking the same, perhaps using screened cable.
 

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Any HD44780 lcd compatible oled should work.
Mine is yellow I can't remember where I got it.
e-bay will probably have some.
They are not dimable with the current code as they don't have a backlight and I have no plans to implement that, it would likely require a hardware change anyway.
 

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This thread is a bit old, but it is the listed thread for the OBDIIC&C displays. I was looking over the parts list before I built mine and Eli had made a note about not connecting pins 3, 15, and 16 when using one of the Newhaven OLED displays but I don't find mention of it anywhere else. From what I understand 16 is the backlight which these don't have, 3 is for changing the contrast which I don't think they can do, but 15 is the 12v line, shouldn't that need to be connected for it to function?

Edit: Found the schematics and pinout for the OLED display I have. Turns out no, 15 is not connected on the OLED board at all. 3, 15, and 16 are listed as "NC, must not be connected"
 
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