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Discussion Starter #261
FYI. I only have 3 ready built and cased OBDIIC&C units left.
$350 inc postage etc.
Probably won't be getting another batch made anytime soon.
When they are gone that's it for now. :(

I do have a stock of blank OBDIIC&C PCB's & OBDII plugs.
$49 for the pair inc postage etc.
 

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Grab'um while you can! If you are an owner even slightly bent to the technical side, this quage gives you a pretty complete picture of how our rather complex little cars are getting along. Very flexible display of 4 selectable IMA measurements, and 4 gas engine measurements. There is no other gauge on the market which will display the IMA side of the car. Two hugely useful features alone make the guage worth the price - the automatic display of trouble codes, and the green light for lean burn. Ah, to have the green light:)

Construction of the gauge, using the boards, is pretty easy if one has just basic soldering skills and a cheap PIC programmer. A construction meet, as we had in the Mid-Atlantic, makes for a great social occasion. If you can get ten folks together, you can reach the first price break on parts at Mouser - and have some fun.
 

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Very flexible display of 4 selectable IMA measurements, and 4 gas engine measurements....
fyi, I've never had a problem mixing and matching parameters regardless of breaking the soft-dictum of '4 IMA, 4 ICE'. Not that I've gone too far down that road... Also, doesn't the latest software allow you to have two 8 parameter screens that toggle back and forth, or something like that? I never updated beyond v0.76...
 

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Discussion Starter #264
Yes the newer software can have 2 x alternating displays.

Mixing and matching parameters is more critical on IMAC&C enabled units due to timing constraints.
 

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Peter,

I am building one for a friend from a board you sold him at Insight Fest. Is the latest firmware dated January 2018? Is there a place one can go to find the latest FW?

Also, I am seeing IMA data updating, but data that would come from the K line (such as air/fuel ratio) is appearing like $005A etc instead of actual values (don't have the device in front of me.) Is this a symptom of a lack of communication with the K-line?

Thanks a ton in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #266
This thread has the latest firmware in it, you have to look back a few pages.

The manual (in my signature) will explain why you are getting $005A etc ;)
 

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This thread has the latest firmware in it, you have to look back a few pages.

The manual (in my signature) will explain why you are getting $005A etc ;)
Would that be the version dated 5/9/2018? The site sucks when it comes to finding older stuff. This is the third time I've searched the thread and each time I get a different version number. ☹ Have you considered GitHub? ?
 

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Discussion Starter #268
Try this version. Remember it's not a pdf it's a renamed hex file.
 

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FYI. I only have 3 ready built and cased OBDIIC&C units left.
$350 inc postage etc.
Probably won't be getting another batch made anytime soon.
When they are gone that's it for now. :(

I do have a stock of blank OBDIIC&C PCB's & OBDII plugs.
$49 for the pair inc postage etc.
FYI. I only have 3 ready built and cased OBDIIC&C units left.
$350 inc postage etc.
Probably won't be getting another batch made anytime soon.
When they are gone that's it for now. :(

I do have a stock of blank OBDIIC&C PCB's & OBDII plugs.
$49 for the pair inc postage etc.
I want one of the ready built and cased units. Sent you a pm
 

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My P&P joystick got damaged after accidentally dropping something heavy on it and is now gets stuck (green led stays on). if I understood correctly when the P&P is connected to the OBDIIC&C it only sends analog serial data which the OBDIIC&C interprets? Would it be possible to use an Arduino to send those and make my own buttons/joystick? anyone has tried this?
 

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So as I mentioned in my previous post my old joystick stopped working correctly after I dropped something on it... Another common problem was the cap always kept coming off. I was finally able to make my own using an Arduino Pro Mini and a 2 axis joystick breakout board from Adafruit that comes with a nice cap... the joystick is about the same size of one in a PlayStation controller and feels very similar... I completed it by 3D printing a box for it. Here is a link to the breakout board in case anyone is interested.


Here are some pictures of the new joystick (left) put together next to the old one (right). I plan to do some in-car testing tomorrow.

 

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Discussion Starter #272 (Edited)
Sorry I thought I had replied to this.

That's cool.. Nice cheap joystick.. Where did the 3d printed box come from?

Can we have some pics of the inside of the 3d box and the pro mini etc assembly.

Have you sorted out the program / serial data output the joystick sends out to the OBDIIC&C? I did explain it in detail in an old post IIRC.
 

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Sorry I thought I had replied to this.

That's cool.. Nice cheap joystick.. Where did the 3d printed box come from?

Can we have some pics of the inside of the 3d box and the pro mini etc assembly.

Have you sorted out the program / serial data output the joystick sends out to the OBDIIC&C? I did explain it in detail in an old post IIRC.
Thanks! the box was just something I quickly modeled in Fusion 3D and printed on PETG filament which has worked well for me before even in 100 degree weather. Unfortunately, the box fits pretty snug so I don't think I can pull it apart without breaking it sorry. I might print another later a tad bigger if so I will make sure to take more pics. The Arduino pro mini fits pretty well under the breakout board and it's soldered with some wires. 3 wires soldered to the Arduino connect to the OBDIIC&C: Grn, VCC, and serial TX. I did find your post and pic basic code for the P&P (JOYSTICK_VIA_OBDIIC&C_9600_V01_210319) so I just followed that, thanks!

 

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Discussion Starter #274
Can you post your little box build/design files so i can print one over here..
I've ordered three of the joysticks to fiddle with.
Your arduino code might be useful as well once you have tested it.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Hey peter whenever you update this again, any chance you could add outside air temperature as a measurement?
That parameter is not available from the ECM asfaik. Sorry.
 

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Can you post your little box build/design files so i can print one over here..
I've ordered three of the joysticks to fiddle with.
Your arduino code might be useful as well once you have tested it.
Thanks
Sorry for the delay I've been on travel. See the link below for the 3D printer files and Arduino code.

 

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I'm finally getting around to building my second OBDII board. The Google drive parts list calls for 1/2 watt resistors except for R20. My guess is that 1/2 watt were sized to make it easier on building, as the parts list says they are "normal size to aid in assembly".

Has anyone built the OBDIIC&C with 1/4 watt resistors? I have all the values I need in 1/4 watt, but none in 1/2 watt. (Obviously R20 is an exception to that)
 

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Discussion Starter #279
1/4w is fine except for the lcd display resistor next to the BC337.
 
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