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Discussion Starter · #441 ·
OK so this OBDIIC&C V2.0.0 has the RJ45 revised pinout as per discussion above.
The only thing that perhaps needs work now is the auto power on/off side.

I'm keen to avoid parasitic drain via the always on 12V at the OBDII port,
so wanted to power down the gauge completely between drives.

So we have to wake it up and power it down as required.
Have a look at the schematic attached and if you have any great ideas they would be welcome.

I'm keen to avoid an on/off switch that interrupts the 12V as it would have to be physically switched every time you get in and out of the car and the gauge would not be able to auto on/off. (Of course this may be the simplest)

So in the circuit shown the gauge can power on if you press the discrete button.
It can power on if the HLine goes high (i.e) The car is turned on.
It can power on if the PIC keep alive output goes high. (Note the pic can't do anything until it is powered)

It can turn off if the HLine goes low and the PIC output goes low.

It can't turn off with the button.
It can't turn off if only the HLine goes low.
It can't turn off if only the PIC goes low. (So if the car is on the gauge will be as well)

Maybe I'm missing something obvious? :unsure:
 

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Engine-Off-Coast
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Yeah the power on-off problem is why I ended up building 2 PCBs, one up front and one in the back inside the IPU compartment, instead of just one inside the pigtail harness.

In post #423 the diagram called "console connector" or the blue PCB in the middle of the photo with the OBDIIC&C on the right is the board I used to handle this problem. One pin is spliced to a +5V source under the cupholder which turns on the indicator LED and activates a relay, providing power to OBDIIC&C and to the LTO BMS boards. When the car is keyed off the +5V current shuts off so the relay opens.

If we can get the OBDIIC&C PCB to handle this somehow it'd be better.

Could the OBDIIC&C detect whether or not it's getting data from the car, and if it is, then it activates a relay? We have that extra optional wire. If that one were repurposed to be the LTO BMS power supply it could be switched by that relay.

We'd still need a splitting PCB of some sort because the ethernet cable leaving the OBDIIC&C still has two places to go -- the OBDII port and the LTO BMS. I used that splitter as the location for the relay, but I guess we could have it only exist as a splitter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 · (Edited)
It's a tricky one as the OBDIIC&C uptake to support LTO is never likely to increase much due to the limited supply of ageing packs and the fact we can't balance with the LTO BMS.

I don't want to compromise the OBDIIC&C V2.0.0 PCB electrical design just for LTO.
I want the OBDIIC&C to plug directly into the OBDII port as it does now.
No extra wire splices etc.....

In my mind It has to be much more generic solution as it can work with quite a few of the later IMA cars now. .
The LTO support can be via your RJ45 adapter board or similar and firmware changes..
 

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Ah, so an LTO install would keep the splitter I mentioned, but it's not required for cars that don't have it. On those you'd just plug a cable direct from OBDII jack into the RJ45 on the OBDIIC&C. IT'd be compatible, no wire mods.

If you can add code to activate a relay on the OBDIIC&C PCB that when activated closes a circuit on the OBDIIC&C between the option wire and the +12V wire at the RJ45 then we can use that option wire for LTO +12V. If installed in a car without LTO it would be totally compatible, as that option wire is simply not used at the OBDII jack. I hope what I've said here makes sense. But yes, this doesn't have to be a priority, as I've already got that sorted out on the splitter PCB anyway. If we can do it on the OBDIIC&C the benefit would be an LTO install with 0 splices into the factory wire harness would be possible.
 

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Peter, I encountered a problem with my ODBIIC&C this morning that I've not experienced before. Yesterday, I temporarily moved it from my first 2000 G1 to my second 2000 G1, so that I could reset the CEL light. Then, I moved it back to my first 2000 G1. This morning, on my morning commute, I noticed that something appears to be wrong with the refresh rate. I have the unit configured for 16 parameters. Starting today, it takes a long time for the initial 8 to display, and they don't update in real time. It takes a very long time for the the second set of parameters to be displayed. I've taken a video of the gauge startup so that you can see what I'm talking about:

VID_20210830_064813

In the video, you can see that it takes almost 1 minute and 25 seconds until the second set of parameters starts to display.

I've tried turning off the car. I've also tried unplugging the gauge several times. I also tried resetting the unit (selecting US99-2004, again.)

The pins look good on the plug, to me:

92151


One other thing I noticed, it seems that when I'm using the joystick, I have to hold it for a long time in any direction to get it to do anything.

Any ideas?
 

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Wow, thanks Peter! That was the issue. Somehow that value was set to a decimal value of 255! I have no idea how that happened. But I have lowered it to 20 and things are back to normal. Very happy that the fix was something simple.

-Bryan
 

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2003 Honda Insight CVT JDM lean burn ECU
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Peter, I am rebuilding a 2000 MT and am approaching completion (for now anyways). I added one of Mike's MIMA systems (still learning it, but loving it). And I also picked up a OBDII C&C. I think the C&C might be one of the early models. The software V is 0.75 (on start up). I have read your User Manual (software version 221217V01B, not sure if that is the most recent) and I am planning on updating the C&C software.

Is the icp01 still the current and recommended programmer? Is 221217V01B the current software? Sorry for the questions, but I am trying to catch up and wasn't sure how far my C&C is able to be upgraded (hardware and software). I have attached pictures of the C&C to help.
92240
92241
92242
92243
 

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... And I also picked up a OBDII C&C. I think the C&C might be one of the early models. The software V is 0.75 (on start up).
I too stumbled upon a used one whilst getting missing parts for my 06. This is what I have:
92244


I just spent 2 hrs. combing through both threads (Vol #1 & 2) to document the various versions. Here are the dates & links:

20171217 - V01a

20171222 - V01b

20171231 - V01c

20180101 - V01d

20180103 - V01f

20180105 - V01g

20180215 - V01j

20180327 - V01f

20180416 -V01k

20180508 - V01k


20190927 - V01n

20200318 - V01n

202010 - V01p

202102
https://www.insightcentral.net/attachments/obd2c-c-parameters-13-10-2020-ic-community-pdf.89180/ (rename to xlsx)

202103 - V01q

I will defer to Peter as to which is preferred for either of us, but I have an extra question for Peter, if the C&C is not set to support an 06, "could" it be why my SRS light is now lit?

(edited to address grammatical mistake)
 

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@bbcb you have the newer PIC board (18F2620), you can can run the latest software revision, as far as I know. Once you get the latest version of the software installed, download the manual guide for learning to how change to the '06 model year G1.

@HawkI not sure about your PIC board. You might have to upgrade the board. It is pretty easy and not to expensive. If you have PIC board 16F886, you will need to upgrade the board before you can install the newest software.
 

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OK so this OBDIIC&C V2.0.0 has the RJ45 revised pinout as per discussion above.
The only thing that perhaps needs work now is the auto power on/off side.

I'm keen to avoid parasitic drain via the always on 12V at the OBDII port,
so wanted to power down the gauge completely between drives.

So we have to wake it up and power it down as required.
Have a look at the schematic attached and if you have any great ideas they would be welcome.

I'm keen to avoid an on/off switch that interrupts the 12V as it would have to be physically switched every time you get in and out of the car and the gauge would not be able to auto on/off. (Of course this may be the simplest)

So in the circuit shown the gauge can power on if you press the discrete button.
It can power on if the HLine goes high (i.e) The car is turned on.
It can power on if the PIC keep alive output goes high. (Note the pic can't do anything until it is powered)

It can turn off if the HLine goes low and the PIC output goes low.

It can't turn off with the button.
It can't turn off if only the HLine goes low.
It can't turn off if only the PIC goes low. (So if the car is on the gauge will be as well)

Maybe I'm missing something obvious? :unsure:
I just ran across your post today but here is how I solved my switched 12v for the OBDIIc&c.

Eight years ago I wired my OBDIIc&c connector so it automatically switches ON/OFF with the car's switched 12v system via a single wire from the (under the dash) fuse panel. Pin 1 of the car's OBDII connector is NOT used in my modification.

I mounted a small male power socket near pin 1 of the OBDIIc&c's male connector plastic housing. By using a separate jack/socket for the 12 volt connection it makes it easy to disconnect the OBDIIc&c from the car if necessary.

I wired the 12 volt lead from the gage to the center pin of the added power socket.

The [now] female power plug has a single, switched 12 volt wire connected to an empty fuse socket located on the top row of the fuse panel under the dash. The switched 12 volt source I used is the 2nd empty socket from the far end of the top row. The bottom lug of that empty socket is a switched 12 volt source.
 

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2003 Honda Insight CVT JDM lean burn ECU
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@joeaax1j The chip in it says PIC18F2620-I/SP, so it looks like I am good there.

So, if it is the latest PIC board, then is the icp01 still the current and recommended programmer? It looks like 2620_131020 is the latest version without LTO/CAN, is that correct (thanks @bbcb for the two hours you spent, the dates helped me find this version because my computer wouldn't access your links)?

92247


Thanks all.
 

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2003 Honda Insight CVT JDM lean burn ECU
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Amazon makes OBDII cables with power switches to prevent battery drain. It is an extra switch to turn on/off, but if the C&C is on then you know you need to flip the switch (or vice versa). Automatic would be better, but this is without modifications. So you could always remove it if you wanted. Here are some of the options I saw:
 

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sh!t
i was adjusting it for the 40% amp hack by changing the amp hack Val to 145 And the amp hack sw set to 1.
well i went past 1 to 0 and i cant go back up its just stuck there
 

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2003 Honda Insight CVT JDM lean burn ECU
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@joeaax1j , thanks I ordered the iCP01.

Regarding being able to power down the C&C when the engine is off, I bought this cable with power switch and installed it. I have attached a picture of the cable installed. The cable is behind the console and only the power switch is visible/accessable. So far it is working great.


White Hood Automotive design Car Motor vehicle
 

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Has anyone found a compatible display with a backlight color that more closely matches the orange color of the stock Insight climate control and radio displays?
I finally got around to replacing my "blobbed" LCD display (after finding an amber backlight 4x20 LCD (eBay find).
A comparison of the datasheets (attached) from the "OEM" green display specified by Peter and the proposed replacement suggested that they are interchangeable. (Yes, the datasheet for the amber display is lacking in details.)

After installing the new display, the amber backlight works but no characters are displayed. The gauge appears to function (SOC set, adjust contrast, leanburn LED, etc.) fine otherwise.
Before ordering another display, where should I focus additional troubleshooting?

Edit: After re-reading Peter's parts list more carefully, it indicates that the display controller needs to be or equivalent to the Hitachi HD44780. Are there any mods to the ODBIIC&C circuit board that would render it compatible with another display controller or would the entire code have to be modified?
 

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