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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
The ST7066 data sheet says it's pin compatible with the HD 44780, but it doesn't say code compatible.
It obviously doesn't work so it's either incompatible, broken or there is some other problem.

It would probably need a code rewrite to work so that's not going to happen. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #462 ·
For LiBCM and OBDIIC&C related issues see this thread.
 

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ObdIIC&C up and running, but it freezes when returning to the main screen from the parameters menu (or at least a center click freezes it, I'm assuming that's how you return).
It also freezes when pressing UP in the main screen. Only way to get it back is to unplug and plug it back in.
No C4 capacitor, otherwise works great.

I also can't seem to set amp hack sw to 1, though I could change pri val to 145 without an issue. Is sw no longer used?
 

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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
Is this one you have built yourself?
Post close up pics of the board and what SW version you are using.
Maybe a video of the issue.
 

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It's one I've built, yeah.

I took a video showing the current hack parameter problem I was having (and I missed in the video that center-clicking from parameters hangs the system), and then while recording I discovered the UP button press hang (as well as the parameter menu return) is fixed by gently touching the LCD pins.

I am using the OLED Newhaven display (omitting pin 3, 15, 16 as mentioned a few times in here and in the google sheets doc) which I do understand is not really supported, but I'm hoping the issue is actually a bad solder joint or component value issue as nearly every component was substituted. Solder joints all looked good to me but I can always pop the LCD back off and reflow everything (or put on the normal display I bought). I can take better pictures if you see anything that looks suspect as well.

(buzzer is undersized and bodged on with a bit of scrap component lead)







 

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Discussion Starter · #466 ·
Disconnect the middle four LCD pins they are used for other functions like CAN.
The OBDIIC&C now uses a 4 bit BUS.
 

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Update!
Removing the 4 pins seems to briefly fix the problem, but I noticed that U1 gets extremely hot and then the issue returns very quickly.

I'm using this for U1

I'm removing the display to look at solder joints and I assume swap for a more suitable component or find some other issue.

Edit:
Display removed to look at the bottom of the board, and I powered it up for a few minutes on the bench. U1 warms up above room temperature, but not burning-hot like it did with the display attached. The board beeps intermittently. It's hard to determine if wiggling around U1 causes it, but generally manipulating the board will make it beep.
Circuit component Passive circuit component Light Green Blue

Circuit component Green Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering

Passive circuit component Circuit component Green Hardware programmer Resistor
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 · (Edited)
Your OLED display probably draws way too much power at 5V for the normal 100ma regulator U1. It's probably shutting down/or browning out due to temp/load.

You will have to replace that with a 500ma rated part and a small heatsink.
 

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It's supposed to draw 65ma typical and 98ma max at 50% checkerboard, but the regulator I'm using is 250ma. I'm going to connect a regular green display this evening with a bunch of minigrabber leads and see how it reacts. I didn't check with the display attached, but it was doing its job when powered on the bench. I'll check how it does under load.

I think I have more of the same regulator around so I can swap it for the same one just in case it's partially failed, but I've got some big 1.5a ones as well.
 

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Finally got around to messing with it again.
Swapped U1 for a fresh 250ma regulator (just in case the original was damaged) and put on a standard green display.
U1 still gets fairly warm (but way below it's max operating temp, maybe 30c at most), and it still hangs on leaving the settings menu. Touching the 4 middle pins on the main board still makes it actually reboot (and those pins are not connected to the display).

Voltage is staying at a steady ~4.95v out, and it's drawing about 50ma from the bench supply.

I do have some TO-220 5v, 500ma regulators, and I think I can fit one on there, but it seems like it might not be the fault of U1 unless I'm missing something.
 

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Peter, the OBDII sensor has been a good and valued tool for as long as I have had it, a few years now. My sole complaint is that in direct sunlight it gets hot and unstable on restart. If I turn off the engine on a hot day when the box has been getting direct sunlight and then restart the car later it takes a few tries for it to start at the "normal panel." I have put some aluminum foil across the back to reflect the sunlight but this has not helped. I also take the box and put it on the floor bbetween stop and restart but this does not help. Do others have this problem? What can I do to eliminate this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #472 ·
You could try updating the firmware with a pic programmer.
There are various versions in this thread.
Save your old version first in case it does not work any better.

Maybe add a small clip on TO92 heatsink to the 5V regulator.
 

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You are talking to a complete tyro here. I just Googled "pic programmer" and got results that the USB ones are the best. OK. Can you point me to a good pic programmer and where the "How To" resides? I am leaving early in the AM here for a 2,500 mile trip each way so will be unable to do anything for a week or so.

I assume I am not the only person to have this problem so I guess a software update has been the successful solution in the past. Is this true?

Once I have cycled through a few joystick pushes it works fine but it is an aggravation.
 

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