[insightbuyer]

Good stuff! Thanks, Really helps to understand those things.

With the harness that you have drawn. Where are most people powering the Red and Black 12 volt wires from?

 

[bradleyb]

Mine is temporarily just connected to the +12 and GND of my OBDIIC&C, which means it is powered even when the car is off, but I don't think it uses much energy. It's been advised that one should use (1) an ignition switched +12V, and (2) a "logic" or "sensor" ground point.

 

[retepsnikrep]

Although the LTO BMS boards don't use that much power it's not insignificant.
To avoid parasitic 12V battery drain they really need to be powered down between drives.

They can also become unresponsive after a long period with the car off and need power cycling in order to restart comms with the OBDIIC&C.

I did post a schematic a few posts back about possible connection points in the back. Post 266
That's how I intend to do mine.

I also strongly suggest do the DC-DC HV output mod by cutting the green/wht wire.
This keeps the 12V topped up much better and able to cope longer with any low current drain.

 

[Natalya]

Here are the two listing for the connectors you will need: Of course you can order these parts elsewhere if you can find them locally, I wasn't able to find them in the USA.

You need 3 of the one connector and 3 of the other, make sure to check what connectors your pack harness is using and what you need for a 6 LTO pack. Make sure you get proper male or female in the link. This will make your connections to the BMS nice and neat.

If you order both from the same place I believe you can get all 6 connectors with shipping for $18 Dollars + Tax.

US $2.88 |1set 6 pin 0.6 sealed waterproof wiringcase connector socket car auto connector plug 7282 2764 30 7283 2764 30 for Nissan Toyota|Connectors| - AliExpress

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www.aliexpress.com

US $1.28 |1 set 8 pin car waterproof auto connector 7283 2148 30 7282 2148 30 Electrical Car Wire Plug Housing for Nissan Toyota Honda|Connectors| - AliExpress

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These were the correct connectors to use.

It took a couple weeks, but they arrived in the mail today. These are WAY easier to build than the little internal JST ones. It still takes forever to build though. It took me about an hour just to get these two put together. Eventually I'll build it out to have all 6. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Also, it's hard to see, but the one in the centre is the end of the daisy chain, so it has the 120 ohm termination resistor attached to it.

Anyway, these are definitely the way to go as opposed to the ones that mount directly to the LTO BMS PCBs.

 

[Natalya]

Here's what I got.

On the left is my RJ45 breakout enclosure which has CAN H + L and +12V and Ground outputs to the 6 LTO pigtail connectors. The power splits to go to each of the 3 block connector pairs. CAN H and CAN L are daisy chained starting at the top left connector and going down to the final connector shown at bottom right which has the termination resistor. The extra wires folded up off the side of the RJ45 breakout enclosure are for future control of a grid charger power relay.

This took me hours to built, but I'm really happy to say it worked perfectly the very first time I plugged it in. After installation I took notes of what the wire lengths should have been, so the next time I make one it will have shorter wires and look much more clean overall. For this one I built it sitting at my desk, not in the car, so I overestimated the required wire lengths out of caution.

 

[insightbuyer]

Very nice, yes these things take hours. This is why I consider this stuff a hobby, you surely wouldn't want to do it to make money.

Most of the stuff I do like this I can't believe how much time it takes and didn't realize I spent that much time on it.

 

[Natalya]

On the money angle, it's like I want to get it done RIGHT. But the thing is RIGHT (for me) usually means having done it wrong once or twice first. This is you know my 2nd try at a CANBUS hookup, the first being just a bunch of DuPont conenctors. By the time I do one more for another Insighter's car, I'll have finally done it RIGHT.

It takes forever to get RIGHT figured out. But once it is figured out, well I learned everything that got me to that point. I might as well try to leverage that and potentially recoup some of my time investment by doing it RIGHT for someone else who doesn't have as much time as I do to stumble around in the darkness. That's what I'm trying to do with the aluminum LTO block brackets.

As far as the LTO conversions go, my junction board wire improvements can't really be sold, unless I were to convert yet another Insight -- but that's why I've got good detailed photos of what I did for that posted on the forum here for anyone to take a look at it. No one should have to reinvent the wheel when it comes to modding the junction board for LTO because I already got it figured out, and I feel like my design for that is really solid. It has fewer connections than OEM and everything fits really well.

Lots of other LTO stuff was figured out RIGHT before me by other Insighters, such as Peter's BCM Fooler. There aren't really any improvements to be made there, except possibly designing a new PCB specifically to fit directly into some particular enclosure or something. Another good example is the current hack, especially the V2 Peter and Isaac came up with. And you yourself deciding to use the LTO cells in the first place, I feel like that was a solid choice of battery.

 

[insightbuyer]

Natalya, can you post a link of the crimper you used. I do have a weather pack crimper but that is for larger pins. I will have to buy the correct crimper.

I'm curios to see what tool you used exactly.

 

[insightbuyer]

I was hoping someone could help me out with this. Confused with the schematic when trying to connect my OBDIIC&C to the OBDII Plug.

In the OBDIIC&C with LTO Canbus schematic it says CANH Pin 6 and CANL Pin 8. I assume these are Pin 6 and Pin 8 on the OBDII port? This would have me use not 5 wires from the OBDII harness but 7 wires?

I'm not sure where I connect this Pin 6 and Pin 8 from the OBDII port to the OBDIIC&C?

In the picture below you can see the schematic make reference to the Pin 6 and Pin 8.

 

[retepsnikrep]

You only need the CAN wires if you will be using LTO/CAN and have the CAN adapter board fitted. .

You can use whatever pins on the OBDII plug you like that are free/not in use. (I just suggested 6 & 8)

(Check the car socket to confirm the pins you intend to use are free.)

CANH & CANL also connect to the little adapter board.

 

[Natalya]

Natalya, can you post a link of the crimper you used. I do have a weather pack crimper but that is for larger pins. I will have to buy the correct crimper.

I'm curios to see what tool you used exactly.

PA-09 hand crimp tool. I do want to mention the jaws are not quite wide enough to get the part of the pins that clamps on the conductor in one go, but they do a good job once you make a second bite with them. These pins are WAY more forgiving than the pins for the BMC PCB connector, so don't worry about that.

 

[insightbuyer]

Thanks,

What gauge wire did you use? Would you recommend that gauge or a different gauge?

Did you use the include rubber inserts that are used for the weather proofing of the pins?

 

[Natalya]

Yes I used the rubber inserts. I used 24 AWG with 0.02" conductor.

 

[Natalya]

I built a second wire harness with the new connectors. I had the measurements I took after installing my first one so this one looks way better than the first.

I think I there is still some room for improvement, so future ones should look a little better, but I'm really happy with how this turned out.

Here it is fitted into my car for testing purposes. It worked 100% on the first try. This one will not be staying in my car however; it's going to live in IC user lilypea's Insight and I'll keep the first one I did in my car. I haven't worked out a price on these things yet (I'm going to see if I can get the construction time down -- this one took about 5 hours to make) but when I do I'll post in Buy and Sell section.

 

[retepsnikrep]

Continuing developments..

OBDIIC&C Master & Slave CAN demo with LTO on same BUS.

I think I finally understand PIC CAN ID Filtering and Masks!
Only taken three years...

This should allow much more resilient and organised reception of the LTO CAN data in the OBDIIC&C software as well as other enhancements and addons in future.

People said we should have a CAN BUS for the G1 mods, now I can actually do something about it.

 

[retepsnikrep]

Another development gadget..

Full 72 Cell LTO simulation setup with extra CAN comms on bus.

 

[retepsnikrep]

CAN Man in the Middle. Videos 1 & 2

HCH2 Obdiic&c canbus upgrade

handy hands Peter - if you're willing to have me I'd like to participate in the odb11c&c canbus upgrade testing. To say I'm a bit embarrassed by my lack of understanding of so much of the programming discussion is an understatement, especeially due to my interest in learning assembly lang...

www.insightcentral.net

HCH2 Obdiic&c canbus upgrade

handy hands Peter - if you're willing to have me I'd like to participate in the odb11c&c canbus upgrade testing. To say I'm a bit embarrassed by my lack of understanding of so much of the programming discussion is an understatement, especeially due to my interest in learning assembly lang...

www.insightcentral.net

 

[minor4326]

Can someone please explain how to setup my screen 1 using software ODBIIC&C_CAN_LTO_V01_2680_090920_ADC_TM_ILEP.

I loaded the software today after a very difficult time getting the PicKit2 program to load correctly. I resolved my issue by clicking on “Auto Import Hex + Write Device” button on the lower right corner of the code area.

I watched Peter’s video describing the software but after going into the program myself I don’t understand how to setup the first page, or any pages for that matter.

I understand the menu has 16 Inter-leaved objects, MCM & ECM columns, then below are 16 additional Screen parameters where one’s own custom screens can be made. All of the custom parameters, Screen 1 Line 1 L, etc once opened up, have only 16 digits (0-15) to work with. How do I enter a parameter who’s code is 27; or 125? That’s one problem.

On the interleaved parameters there are several that cannot be modified since they have a “X”. I assume nothing can be done with the ones with “X”.

The video indicated the screen parameters can be moved around but I can’t figure out how. Are the screen parameters the first group or the second group?

Once operating I have a “A” on the far right column of line 1, and when I attain a speed of ~20 mph a “C” appears on the far right column, line 4. Both go out when I use the brake but come on again when driving. What are those all about and how can I make those disappear?

I think when modifying the screen parameters the lines move too quickly. Can a 100msec delay or something be added? I like the fact the unit goes to sleep w/o unplugging.

 

[retepsnikrep]

1) Set 'IMAC&C ModeVal' to 0 if you don't have IMAC&C fitted

2) The menu items 'Screen 1 Line 1 L', etc are not custom parameters.

They are 16 screen positions. (2 screens of 8 positions each)

You select a parameter from the earlier list (Parameter 0 to 15) that you want displayed in that position.

You use the 'Parameter 0-15' number i.e. 0, 1 5, 7, 10 etc not the full 125,253 etc number.

If you want 'Parameter 10' displayed at screen position top right then set 'Screen1 Line1 R' to 10

3) No you cannot change 'X' Reserved parameters.

 

[minor4326]

I only found IMAC&C Inc Val. The lowest value was 1, not 0.