[Natalya]

I want to update that the issue with my gauge may be a problem inside the gauge itself, as a different OBDIIC&C had no issues when I plugged it in.

 

[Natalya]

Hey @retepsnikrep I was riding with @Adria in her LTO Insight last night. She had a SRS light that she couldn't reset, so I went to show her the OBDIIC&C menu item where one can read the SRS code.

When I selected Read SRS DTC or whatever that option is called, it said no codes found or whatever the standard message is. Pressing left and right didn't get it to show anything. But, when I pressed the button in, to go back to the menu, something happened where the OBDIIC&C had most (possibly all?) of its parameters reset! The screen went really dim, the screen parameters got messed up, the splash screen stopped loading, and so forth. LTO block IDs were all zeroed, and many menu parameters were zeroed.

I tried multiple times to enter the menu by pressing the centre button but it usually reset itself immediately. But eventually I was able to enter it and use the "reload config" to restore the gauge to normal operation. However, attempting to check the SRS codes once again messed up the OBDIIC&C parameters and the gauge went dark and such.

Is there anything that you can think of that might lead to this issue? Do you think there could be a hardware problem, or is it potentially a software problem?

 

[retepsnikrep]

Interesting.

Exactly which version is she using. Please post pic of splash screen.

 

[Natalya]

ODBIIC&C_CAN_LTO_V02_2680_131020_ADC_TM_ILEP

It's the one you posted with the new Menu Delay ms parameter.

 

[retepsnikrep]

I can't see anything obvious in the code.

What happens if you plug your gauge into her car and try the same?

What happens when you plug her gauge into your car and try the same?

 

[Natalya]

That can't be done right now. There wasn't a good way to wire the gauges that would allow them to be disconnected, because of the extra LTO wires and the LTO BMS power relay which also cuts power to OBDIIC&C when the car is off. It'd probably take at least half an hour to unplug from one car then into the next.

I'm wondering if her gauge is perhaps older, and may need some components replaced?

 

[retepsnikrep]

I'm wondering if her gauge is perhaps older, and may need some components replaced?

I doubt it, modern electronic stuff either works or not.

 

[Adria]

I'll work on pulling the unit from my car by removing connections inside the case. We can then examine the innards in the off chance a component failed.

 

[Natalya]

Not much development going on for LTO these days since they're now unavailable, but I'm working on this little module to make integration between the BMS and the OBDIIC&C w/ LTO chip easier.

This one's not the final product but it's pretty close. There are two RJ45 jacks, the one on the left connects to the LTO BMS harness I developed, and the one on the right will connect to a CAT5 cable going to the OBDIIC&C. Then the pins on the left can be soldered to a wire going to the OBDII port plug. The bottom pin will get +5V from C502 Pin1 (blue connector under the cup holder) and that'll power the relay, so the BMS and OBDIIC&C turn on only when the car is on.

This will reduce the number of soldered connections to the car down to 1. And you'll finally be able to unplug the OBDIIC&C from the car just by disconnecting a cable, although you still won't be able to plug it into someone else's car because this dongle is going to be stuck inside your car due to the C502 connection. But maybe I'll figure out a way around that too and we can have a disconnect-able LTO OBDIIC&C in the future.

One could definitely solder across the relay pins and then it wouldn't need the soldered C502 +5V connection, but you'd have to unplug it from the OBDII port whenever you parked the car or else the battery would die.

 

[Natalya]

It's going to be a glorious day when we can simply plug one of these in and then unplug it to take it back out!!

 

[minor4326]

I'm not sure why you're making it so hard. I get my voltage for the LTO BMS in the back end and the other voltage for the OBD2C&C is in the OBD2 port. Granted my unit doesn't turn on and off by relays but Peter's newest software can sense activity and turn off the OBD2C&C automatically. All I have coming to the front are the two LTO BMS CAN wires. That way I can unplug and move my OBD2C&C anywhere, anytime.

 

[mudder]

@Natalya
Sad to hear the LTO cells are no longer available. Fortunately it's rumored that Apple is using the same LTO SCiB cell, so maybe in a few years we'll have a new supply.

 

[retepsnikrep]

Like John I pick up ign switched 12V in the back for the BMS boards themselves.

I also added two LTO CAN pins to my OBDII port in the footwell so can just plug the gauge in/out as desired.

Finding pins to fit the OEM OBDII socket was the most difficult part.

 

[Natalya]

The setup I've got worked out here means only 1 hard connection to an OEM wire. I think, in general, the fewer modifications we can make to the OEM wire harnesses, the better. LTO BMS power and monitoring may never be plug-and-play, but why not push closer to that?

I'm not sure why you're making it so hard. I get my voltage for the LTO BMS in the back end and the other voltage for the OBD2C&C is in the OBD2 port. Granted my unit doesn't turn on and off by relays but Peter's newest software can sense activity and turn off the OBD2C&C automatically. All I have coming to the front are the two LTO BMS CAN wires. That way I can unplug and move my OBD2C&C anywhere, anytime.

I feel like I'm literally making it less hard by reducing the amount of work one has to do with soldering and splicing. Wiring 1 CAT5 cable from the back to the front was a 1-step procedure, and it has the opportunity to support any future upgrades/expansion of capabilities that would require more wires. Peter hasn't yet released a grid charger relay control for example, but the CAT5 carries a wire from the OBDIIC&C to the IMA bay in case that option becomes available in the future. I've got 3 extra unused wires on that cable for whatever else (if anything) may be developed.

 

[stealthtsi]

There are a few LTO cells still available on eBay.

32.4V 20Ah LTO Titanate Li-ion 550Wh 12cell SCiB cells | eBay

32.4V or 64.8V 20Ah LTO Titanate Li-ion 1.1kWh 24cell SCiB cells Flooded | eBay

 

[Natalya]

There are a few LTO cells still available on eBay.

32.4V 20Ah LTO Titanate Li-ion 550Wh 12cell SCiB cells | eBay

32.4V or 64.8V 20Ah LTO Titanate Li-ion 1.1kWh 24cell SCiB cells Flooded | eBay

I believe those ones have issues. I think our best bet moving forward will be to use the BMW batteries.