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I'd like to give feedback on the software ODBIIC&C_LTO_V01_2680_060520_US

When in the normal viewing screen the readability / resolution of the values were not what I was used to.
My main issues are with the display values: readings seem to be missing decimal points, or the resolution is poor. My examples are:
  • Afr - I am used to the reading 14.3 or 19.5, not 0143 or 0195.
  • Fin - reads 2259 instead of 2.59 (I think two decimals).
  • Bam - values have very low resolution and didn't want to show values between 0-9. It would only show those values if the display got caught on its way to zero. I currently have no current hack and the Amps Hack Val is set to 100.
  • Ect - has an old bug as confirmed by Willie when the temperature is either 203 or 204 F there is an occasional reading of 0032.
  • Position 3, far right column has an "a".
I'm enclosing the OBD2C&C programming parameters list with both decimal and hex parameters. The current LTO-CANBUS software which uses decimal.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
I'd like to give feedback on the software ODBIIC&C_LTO_V01_2680_060520_US

When in the normal viewing screen the readability / resolution of the values were not what I was used to. I'm sure you were aware of the change but just in case I wanted to bring it to your attention.
My main issues are with the display values: readings seem to be missing decimal points. My examples are:
  • Afr - I am used to the reading 14.3 or 19.5, not 0143 or 0195.
  • Fin - reads 2259 instead of 2.59 (I think two decimals).
  • Bam - values have very low resolution and didn't want to show values between 0-9. It would only show those values if the display got caught on its way to zero. I currently have no current hack and the Amps Hack Val is set to 100.
  • Ect - has an old bug as confirmed by Willie when the temperature is either 203 or 204 F there is an occasional reading of 0032.
  • Position 3, far right column has an "a".
No problem. Thanks for the Parameter list.

I did mention earlier data would be missing decimals for now due to space restrictions in the software.
They may return in future updates.

Bam is currently limited to whole amp resolution. Works all right on mine.

Ect bug yep it's still there.

The "a" is telling you the Alf (Assist Limit Flag) is being set because your LTO voltage is below minimum, as presumably you haven't got it connected to your LTO Block yet, so it thinks your LTO pack is at zero volts.

An "r" is the (regen limit flag) Rlf

You need to turn off the LTO checks stuff in the menu if you aren't using it. "LtoChks on/off " set to zero

With regard to your contrast adjustment difficulty that is hardware related.
I suggest you replace the adjustable contrast pot with new 10K one. Get a decent quality one..

The ambient light sensor auto LCD dimming is not currently supported or implemented in the LTO software.
 

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Not sure how I missed this 4 month old thread. Great to see you were able to reuse the existing LTO BMS!
 

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The ambient light sensor auto LCD dimming is not currently supported or implemented in the LTO software.
Thanks for the rundown on the different, lower level of aspects of the software.
Wouldn't it easy to include the code for the light sensor in all software even if the particular OBD2 does not have that mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #106
It's a question of space for now. It may return in the future.
 

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So after taking a break I'm trying to get the CANBUS board inside my OBD2C&C to read my LTO id's and voltage. There are two things that I did : 1) set the Menu List, Lto Checks Flag to ON and 2) go down to the Lto BMS ID info (which is a command) and go left to enter. The next screen says hook up the cells one of the time to get the address. I then got an error message saying "Waiting for BMS". Error message stayed. So I started over with everything disconnected and when that Waiting for the BMS error showed up I connected everything. Nothing happened. So I reverse the wires going to the CANBUS and still nothing happened. I even changed LTO Check Flag to Off but nothing. My Fooler light was LIT, the BCM Interceptor light was blinking and my car started w/the IMA. I was using software LTO_V01_2680_060520_US. Suggestions please. Just occurred to me that I have no additional caps or resistors in the CAN circuit. Are these components THAT critical? Also does the BCM Interceptor connected to 5V or 12V?
When everything was connected and waiting to turn on, I got CEL light and car started using 12V. I found out by disconnecting the CANBUS wires one at a time then its 12v, the problem was the power supply feeding the LTO BMS boards.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
1) The LTO Checks Flag is not relevant to getting the ID's.
2) The BCM Interceptor is powered by 5V
3) The LTO BMS boards are powered by 12V
4) You must only connect one LTO BMS board at a time when collecting the ID's

I asked you to show pictures of your LTO BMS connections and harness etc as I suspect that may not be correct.
 

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I had both voltages correct and I had only one plug connected.
This is a picture of the CANBUS harness I made. Since each 12-cell pack starts at zero there's no input (the input lines are not connected to anything) and all outputs are daisy-chained to the spade connectors. So each plug is connected to the output wires going to the OBD2C&C. I think this is correct. What confuses me is CAN L and CAN H each have an in-and-out (four total wires) but we only use two wires, and I think they are considered CAN buss hi and CAN buss low. How are the different number of lines reconsiled? That may be my problem.
20200528_192453.jpg 20200528_192342.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #110
How have you made a daisy chain with only the output wires? That is not a daisy chain.
I posted pictures about this earlier.

Where in the laid out harness picture exactly is the second 100R resistor?
It should be at the end of the bus after the last CAN device.

Each plug has a red and black wire that connects to 12V+ & GND
Each plug also has at least four other wires CAN IN H&L and CAN OUT H & L

Some connectors also have temperature wires, ignore those.
I suggest unravel your LTO harness and start again.

Just make one connector up first and connect that to a block and the OBDIIC&C and see if it works.
Only once you have that working start daisy chaining the other blocks. Testing at each step.

Note you still need two termination resistors even with just one block.

DAISY CHAIN..

RESISTOR > IN BLOCK1 OUT >> IN BLOCK2 OUT>> IN BLOCK3 OUT >> etc >> OBDIIC&C >> RESISTOR
 

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I thought there needed to have a terminating resistor at the end of all the blocks which I put at the CANBUS board and at the pack end (shown in pic)
Since the CANBUS board has one L and one H and the LTO BMS board has two connections for each CAN, how do two wires combine into one, is only L used or only H used?
 

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I've tried my best to explain I can't do anymore.
I'm sorry but I don't get what I don't get. I don't know where my communication is falling down. Let me ask my question another way... please explain what IN BLOCK1 OUT actually means. From your post referenced below "Each LTO pigtail needs six wires" two wires IN (one each CAN L and CAN H) and two wires OUT (one each CAN L and CAN H) The diagram you posted ( LTO CAN Bus Interface with OBD2C&C ) # 14 indicates that each LTO block has CAN Buss Hi and CAN Buss Lo. Are you using only one of the CAN lines, CAN L, or only CAN H? Since I have the OE connector plugs can you please tell me the IN color and the Out color on the external plug since they all have the same colors.
 

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OK. I think I figured it out, at least I got some OBD2 readings. I had problems reconciling what to do with the 2 transmit and 2 receive wires attached to each LTO BMS (4 wires total) so this is what I reasoned; please correct me if I'm wrong because I like to have an understanding how things work so I can remember better.

I reasoned that the battery packs were only sending (Transmitting) information so I connected CANL output and CANH output from the LTO BMS plug to my wiring, hence the OBD2C&C, and I got readings.

Three packs gave incomplete data, and I don't know the why. All three that have incomplete data use the Male plug. I did try a different plug but still got one line of data. The pack for the first missing-data connection had the weird connection that perhaps connects a ground (earlier issues with pic below, and perhaps affects voltage?), so I thought that was the problem. But two additional incomplete data... ??
From my screen shots I have multiple duplicate BMS IDs since I have two 0202 and 0206. Correct?
85728


20200529_184030.jpg 20200529_184124.jpg 20200529_184201.jpg 20200529_185535.jpg 20200529_185705.jpg 20200529_185827.jpg
 

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I don't think the little jumper wire is an issue. Captain Torque had been testing with it that way, and I tested the pack with the jumper in place and had no issue. Does that pack have the short or the long mounting tabs?

I appears that you need two more BMS boards with two different (i.e. unique) CAN IDs. Please send me, by conversation or e-mail, your shipping address and I'll get them out to you right away.

Is your system working properly other than the voltage readouts?
 

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Discussion Starter #116
OK it looks like you are making progress.

Re check the ID's again before JIME sends you some boards.

Star with a duplicate one, then test a different ID one, then test the duplicate.
 

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the last few packs I purchased, it appears that I have duplicate CAN ID's on two of them. (they even marked them for me, how cool is that).
I've got some spares fortunately, but we might have to start a BMS swap-shop thread
 

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I've been changing two boards and three pigtail connectors (2 Male, one Female) taking voltages. I'm including my testing results. I’ve duplicated the results, and then some, from the ones I posted yesterday. It looks like I have three bad boards since they only read one row. Have you heard of such a thing? I suppose anything can go bad but seems a bit odd. Have you suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #119
1) I doubt the BMS boards are faulty.
2) Yes it looks like you have two duplicates.
3) CAN is quite tolerant but if you haven't got the daisy chain layout and termination correct yet it might not work properly. Have you?

I suggest.

Set the OBDIIC&C for 12 LTO cells (1 board) and change the ID in the software to match each separate board in turn and see if it reads the correct voltages (for that block) when you plug each one in separately.
 

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The ticket is to set the LTO cell # to 12. This works. I've been using a single plug and wire the whole time, no daisy chain, no harness.
I have been having a bit of an issue with what appears to be a bug where the screen goes to two unreadable lines. I am unable to reset in anyway except to unplug. It appears randomly and very annoying. If I had to guess it appears to be a heat since it appears more frequently the longer it's been on. I'll investigate further.
 
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