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Chicago & Detroit
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a couple more things and answers to your questions.
Splash screen; Max error count; Pack voltage data; Bvo shows 000
Splash screen.jpg Max Error Count.jpg pack voltages.jpg OBD2 Bvo Display.jpg

What should Alf Assist Flag (dec 20) value be?

Today I saw two rows with “I” in far right column. What doers that mean?

Alf Assist Flag - The screen shot indicates a small voltage difference between cells and good pack voltage

I changed Max Error Count to 000 and my Ect went to 000. When I changed back the Ect value displayed. Bvo still 000

LTO BMS IDs: 0202-0207

Was the MDM IPU fan operating at 57C? Don’t think so, couldn’t hear it with cover off. Is there an indicator that would tell me? Can I manually turn it on?
 

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Discussion Starter #142 (Edited)
The 'max error count' should not be 0. Set it back to 2 and report back.

What should Alf Assist Flag (dec 20) value be?
Don't know what you mean.

Today I saw two rows with “I” in far right column. What does that mean?
"i" means your LTO pack is over temp.

This is an issue to do with the fact the checks and limits are set in Centigrade but you have probably set the gauge to display Fahrenheit.

Set the 'LtoPt' (Lto Pack Temperature Limit) menu parameter to a higher value.
(Your software is limited to 80F max) I will need to remove this limit in the next version.
It's bug/anomaly.

If you revert to C display this will probably also get rid of the error.

This may also be impacting on other temperature related checks.

'Mpo' & 'Mpf' display the MPI fan status. Parameters are in the manual ;)
 

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Chicago & Detroit
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when 'max error count' was 0 and showed the Ect at 000 I immediately reset it to 2. It didn't go back to 2 in the normal, easy way, I had to fiddle with that parameter in edit mode.

The "i" I think was an anomaly since the temp was not particularly high. I did set the Lto Pack Temperature to 80 (from a preset of 40). Not sure exactly what 40 means, much less 80 since that's a medium temp during the day.

Can the Alf Assist Flag (decimal 21) function be shut-off ?

"If you revert to C display this will probably also get rid of the error". Please explain what this means.

Finally, what about my 000 Bvo reading? What in the world could cause that to read 000. It seems to be reading something?
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Lto pack temp 40 or 80 is 40 or 80 Centigrade not 40 or 80 fahrenheit.
The temperatures in the menus are always in centigrade.

The temperatures the gauge displays for parameters on the main screen can be changed to Fahrenheit.

You can turn the Lto checks off in the menu.
That will probably get rid of the Alf flag but you lose automatic cell/pack/protection and warnings.

I have no idea what is wrong with your Bvo
 

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Engine-Off-Coast
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Wired it to my accessory socket.

86565


I put the OBDII power line on the common pole of a latching SPDT switch.


86566


The yellow w/ blk stripe wire is from Accessory socket. It goes to the anode side of the diode on the board. At the cathode I wired out from there to one of the other terminals on that switch, and then the original +12V that the OBDII had been connected to goes to the final terminal.

86567


I installed the switch here, should I need to use it for some reason. There was a round indent right there between the spot welds, so I drilled it out and put the switch in. The blue and red lines there are +5v and VSS for my EFAS pcb.

Next step is to wire CAN H and L and the white relay control line to the OBDII C&C. The black line is a ground, I'll connect that to the chassis somewhere, probably the same spot as the EFAS ground seen in the above photo.

The yellow CAT5 cable is plugged into the PCB, and the other end I got routed under the carpet to the area behind the seats, in front of the IPU compartment. That's where I'll attach the other PCB with the CAT5 port and I'll do the LTO BMS wiring.

This is all in my Insight by the way. Right now Lily's only has a CAT5 cable routed from the cupholder area to the area behind the seats. I'll get my car working then I'll wire up hers. Once my connections are setup properly I'll have to figure out the CAN IDs of my BMS boards. I don't know what they are in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
@retepsnikrep When I connect a relay line to OBDIIC&C, where do I connect it, and is it going to be powering the relay w/ 12V or 5V? Also, can the relay be grounded to the chassis, or does it need a line back to the OBDIIC&C?
I think we will standardise and use the pin in the picture.

86593


Note this pin is 5V output with a maximum of around 20ma current.
Do not try and drive a 5V coil operated relay directly.

You will need an open collector transistor switch like a BC337 and 330R base resistor to increase the pin drive capability. Don't forget a flyback diode on coil relays.

I used a solid state mains relay with a 3-30V Input drive voltage to control a mains charger.
So I did not need to bother with a transistor or flyback diode.

Your relay could be grounded to the chassis, but that might be noisy.
Probably best to bring a return back to the negative on pin 5 of J1

Note the firmware to control a charger relay based on anything meaningful is not written or tested yet.
 

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'03HCH1MT
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Hi Peter,
Hopefully this is the appropriate thread to start in (rather than a new one).
Having retired and moved from Chicago to St Pete, Florida 21 months ago, my ‘03 HCH1 MT is definitely needing to retire its original pack. I’ve not frequented Insight Central for about 6 years, but grid charging for years I have reached diminishing returns. I came back to see what others were doing with their vehicles. I discovered the FIT LTO and quickly concluded a retrofit would allow me to happily keep my HCH1. I’ve done a lot of reading here to get reasonably up to speed and have recently purchased and received 3 packs of Fit LTOs. I’ll probably do 72s, but might play with 60s.

It may be a while before I can find time to retrofit my HCH1, but I want to bench test the packs under heavy load to identify any bad cells before the Greentec 3 month warranty ends. Quick unloaded voltage readings of half packs show I have one bad half pack (~0V).

Rather than tear them open before I do any warranty returns, I’d like to use the OBDIIC&C to read all cells through the BMS boards.

So cutting to the chase, I built my own OBDIIC&C on a plug in breadboard back in 2013 posted here:
OBDIIC&C HCH1 Gen 1 Civic Hybrid

pic of breadboard that you might remember:
hi res OBDIIC&C breadboard.jpg

I have a new PIC 18F2680 to replace the 16F886 and an MCP2551 CANBUS board will arrive next week.
So I’d like to purchase your latest firmware to read the LTO cells. I also will contact minor4326 to see if he has any harness connectors left. I read that you abandoned HCH1 development for the OBDIIC&C, but that is a separate matter that hopefully we can discuss at some point.
Thanks,
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Jim

Please start your own thread for your HCH1 conversion and I will comment etc on there.

There are quite a few things to consider. Copy your post here to the new thread.

I assume you read my HCH1 Lithium conversion thread from years ago?
There are also several other relevant threads.


 

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I think I'm finally going to build my OBDIIC&C with LTO integration.


This little board that I circled in the picture. Does anyone know where you can get that and is it really needed or can you just solder the wires directly to the board?

Thanks

 

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Discussion Starter #151
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