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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,
I'm getting ready to do my first oil change and all I could find at Advance Auto was 0W-40 Mobil1. Wal Mart doesn't have any 0w-Anything!
Will the 0W-40 hurt my engine?

I thought I would ask the experts before I changed the oil.

Thanks,

jfire
 

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0W40 is too thick, it shouldn't cause engine problems but it will affect your mileage. If you cannot find 0W20 oil, just use the now common 5W20 oil or 0W30 or even 5W30. This information is in the owners manual :idea:
 

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The service manual says 0W20, 0W30, 5W20, all are good. Synthetic is best. I'd check anywhere else as I'm surprised they only had 0W40!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replys. I'll be returning the 0W-40 and getting the 5W-20 instead. Boy it sure is nice to have this board!

jfire
 

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Please do me a favor :) and check out other discussions here about changing your oil. There are a couple of things to watch out for:

- The underbody pans are held on by bolts that go into aluminum that strips VERY easily.
- The drain bolt goes into (magnesium?) that strips VERY easily. And is horribly expensive to fix.
- Also there is a discussion about whether to just dump 3 quarts of oil in or to try to get the exact amount specified in the manual. I prefer the "dump in three quarts" theory, but there has been quite a lot of discussion that you would find interesting.
 

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mail order 0W-20

You can mail order 0W-20 synthetic from AMSoil (http://www.amsoil.com). Synthetics are a bit pricey but insights are in limited supply and I want the best protection I can get. Better mileage is another plus. When I had scheduled maintenance performed that included an oil change, my local Honda dealer allowed me to supply the synthetic 0W-20. If you are nervous about stripping the bolts (like I was) this may be an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I noticed in the maintainance records that the oil pan bolt had already been stripped and that the dealer had installed a "repair kit". I haven't gotten under the car to see it yet. Could be interesting!
 

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Dougie said:
Please do me a favor :)
- Also there is a discussion about whether to just dump 3 quarts of oil in or to try to get the exact amount specified in the manual. I prefer the "dump in three quarts" theory, but there has been quite a lot of discussion that you would find interesting.
What is so difficult about pouring a little more than 1/2 Qt (19oz) instead of the whole 32oz Qt? The manual says 2.6 Qts w/filter change, NOT 3 Qts. It's no easier or less work to use the correct amount of oil. Overfilling any engine's crankcase is not a good thing.
 

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It's even easier when working with litres. The oil change with filter is 2.5 litres. Five litres does two oil changes.
 

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Overfilling CAN cause the crankshaft to dip into the oil in the pan while the engine is running which will aerate the oil (cause bubbles). This aerated oil in turn CAN cause problems with the oil pick up of the oil pump resulting in lower oil pressure. In addition, the crankshaft dipping in the oil creates drag on the engine thereby reducing gas mileage.

All of the above I read somewhere many years ago and can't verify myself. I NEVER overfill my crankcase.
 

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I think the thing to do is to fill it so that the dipstick says it's full. My experience (four oil changes so far) is that you get that result by dumping in the full three quarts. YMMV. :)
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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besk:
Here are some figures I came up with back in 2/03 when I was installing the TURBO OIL DRAIN LINE on the LITTLE RED ROCKET.

The Crankshaft protrudes into the oil pan... 2-7/8".
There is a "splash pan" 1/4" lower in the oil pan.(mounted on the crankshaft supports)
The pick up for the oil pump sits 3/16" from the bottom of the oil pan.
It would take app. 4 quarts of oil to reach the splash pan.
As oil is returned to the pan there will always be "bubbles".
I'll post the exact documentation on the spec. at TURBOCHARGED INSIGHT later on if everybody is interested.


Willie
 
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