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Oops, finished stripping my oversized oil drain bolt (trying out Eco Plug)

3K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  OVInsight 
#1 ·
Hello! I was surprised to find out that I’d never had to make an account for this site, but I use it all the time. Thank you!

I know there are a lot of these threads, but after reading some of them, I still am not sure how to proceed. I bought my 2000 insight 2 years ago today, actually, and was performing my 7th oil change since buying the car, and ruined what were apparently the last 2 threads or so, holding the bolt in. Sad day. I’ve removed oil pans (and the transmission from this car) before, so I’m pretty comfortable wrenching, I just have never had to deal with a stripped out situation like this.

I hadn’t paid very close attention to the drain plug situation, but after reading around, I am now aware that the plate around the drain bolt was long gone before I got the car. It has what looks like an oversized bolt currently, and I think it may have only been holding strongly on the farthest threads, till today. Testing an M14 plug, it doesn’t even catch. I’m only assuming that the other plug has to be M15?

I already know that most will scoff at the idea, but it seems like, if I can find a drain valve with an M15 thread, it still seems to catch enough, that I could either JB-Weld or use gasket maker and install the valve. Problem is, I don’t think an M15 drain valve exists - does anyone know if that’s true? Otherwise, any advice on how I should proceed?
 
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#3 · (Edited)
That was my first thought, but counting the threads on my current bolt, it looks like 12 threads (16mm long or so). Counting the fumoto, I can see 8-9 visible in photos.
I purchased an M14x1.5 twist drain plug from Oreilly which seems to be of similar length to the fumoto, and it slips all the way into the drain hole without even catching on the threads. The current drain plug still needs to be threaded in, but it won’t snug anymore.

Right now, I’m looking at this piggyback plug which I can pick up locally tomorrow, and slapping it in with JB Weld. Seems to be double oversized. The other choice would be to buy a new oil pan and the fumoto valve to the tune of $500+, which may end up being the direction I want to go, but I at least want to try to avoid that.
 
#6 ·
I’m pretty sure this isn’t what you meant, but when I searched for an insert, this is what I found, and it actually looks kinda promising. Thinking that with some “the right stuff” could be a pretty permanent fix.

This might’ve worked before I finished ruining the hole, but the bolt was already starting to leak enough that it left a small spot on my driveway, and that’s with having the underbody panel off and cleaned at least once since the last change. I’m looking for a solution that won’t require anymore working of the threads, given my precarious situation at the moment.

Potentially a combo of the aforementioned tapered plug, sealer, and a custom plate like in your link may end up being the solution.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I’m up in the Owens Valley, 4-5h north. Not a lot of shops I would trust to work on my car here, and the only one I would in this case, is booked weeks out. Not sure I’d trust doing something like that myself over the eco plug.

Otherwise, update: picked up a tapered 12-16mm eco plug at Autozone for $11 after reading a lot of positive reviews about it. Basically, if this doesn’t end up working out, there’s still a good chance any of the other fixes would still work. Hopefully in the worst case, if it blows out and I lose oil, I’m quick enough to shut the engine off and coast down before it kills it, but used engines cost about as much as the oil pan.

Installed the eco plug and tried to yank on it a bit, with some pliers, but it seems very secure. Took the car for a drive let it warm up, and ran it to 5500rpm, so far no leaks. I’ll keep the thread updated with my experience if there’s any interest; it’ll either be “DISASTER” or “so far so good,” I don’t think there’s much in between.

I also do appreciate the suggestions even though I decided not to listen! Thanks again!

Also figured I’d take some photos for reference; attached the best pic I could get of the thread situation, and how the pan looks with the Eco Plug installed.
Automotive lighting Audio equipment Gas Auto part Rim
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Tread


Update 5/14: I took the car up one of the tougher local highway grades, that gains 2500ft of elevation in a little under 10mi at highway speed, and back, so far the eco plug is holding well!

Update 5/16: 500+ miles so far - drove from Bishop, CA to Tahoe/Carson City, NV and back today; lots of high RPM hills and engine braking, and it’s still dry as a bone. I’ll try to remember to update on the next oil change, but so far, I’m very happy with the eco plug!
 
#9 ·
Thanks Bulldog.
That is the word I meant instead of "Insert". OFCR
 
#10 ·
Just wanted to update this thread, as it's been just under 5 months, and just over 6500 miles since installing the eco plug. First oil change was a piece of cake; no leaks whatsoever from the drain plug area, and my oil level stayed at the center of the dipstick throughout the entire time. Drain speed is a little slower as expected, but 0w20 oil is basically water, so it wasn't a big deal. I also yanked on the plug itself with pliers while it was draining, to make sure it's still holding on tight, and so far so good!
 
#11 ·
Update - the eco plug holds strong! So far I think it’s a great alternative to the vaunted Fumoto valve; hoping this fix lasts the life of the car at this point. Installed around 238k and coming up on my 3rd oil change since install, at 255k currently and not a drop of oil from the drain plug (it leaked a tiny bit from the plug before). The best part was that I could pick up an eco plug from autozone in BFE California. Side note, especially with gas prices these days, I love having this little car!
 
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